Yup, was thinking of a cross-hatching design, grid lines when I mentioned using a toothpick in the JB Weld.

Jerod or anyone else - Possible to remove this door check without removing the interior door panel? Wondering if it might be reachable by popping-out this piece, then maybe use an extension/telescopic magnet to pull-out and replace.

A couple quick measurements.





Yup, plastic-coated arm, but no texture, which might be a positive in terms of those high points getting worn down over time.

It's super stiff. I am not able to close it. It's apparently reversible, a left and right. Would be nice if true for us. Again, this is for a Matrix/Vibe, Corolla and Prius...

I don't think you can do a good job of it without removing the door panel. You have to loosen nuts deep inside the door pocket.

I have to say, I am all for creativity and ingenuity (and saving money). But for me, I think the work that would be involved in trying to make a used door check work (for longer than a month) is just not worth it.

So unless you can find a better design that more or less bolts into our trucks, I'd just spend the $50 for a new door check. And again, I am super cheap, but time is money too .

Door panel needs to come off, then speaker too. I of course remembered that I sealed the speaker housing...



No worries, I simply removed the speaker, not that surround piece and had sufficient space to get it out. The two compared.



Jerod, no need to measure since I have one out...

It's longer, and I'll see how that plays-out. I'll get a couple 10mm bolts and give it a try. The two holes are indeed the correct spacing, so it seems. The hole on the other end of the arm, the right size too. When the door is closed, with the added length in the door, that looks to not be problematic (freedom of motion).

From a physical fit, I feel somewhat confident. As for range of movement, the arc of our door swing, in relation to this check, that's the mystery...

Longer would just mean more door travel correct? Is there any part of the door or trim that is at risk of buckling or contacting the fender by increasing the range of motion for the door? If you do install it, just be careful opening it the first time.

You also answered your own question, yeah the door panel has to come off! Can't pull it out, have to push it in. I was also looking into if the rear doors are interchangable with the driver's door but alas, they are not. I'd sacrifice a rear door I don't use as much to have a more secure driver's side door.

EDIT: I just realized the new one has no studs. I suppose you could thread a bolt through though right?

Yup, no studs. Should be no problem using bolts (has threaded holes). I'll just hold or pull the arm to line-up the holes and get the bolts started. And if this door check works, I'll likely convert it to studs... I'd tap those threaded holes in the other direction. Maybe I'll like not having studs though. We'll see...

A reason for studs... They would sandwich the box together should the tabs ever break from being bent too many times to access the material inside that grabs the arm. I'll give it some thought.

Yes, longer would mean open more. However, from what I can tell, the hinge limits range to almost the same spot as the factory check. I'll compare to the other door that still has the factory check in-place.

Agreed, I'll be very careful moving the door after installing it. I'll obviously not re-install the speaker and door panel before thorough testing is complete.

In addition to being different lengths, they have opposite curvatures. I haven't really thought this through yet, but it seems like it's important to have the right curvature to avoid binding as the door opens. Maybe not, maybe there's enough slop in there to not matter. Let us know what you find out Tony!

Have or had the same concerns Leon.

Hey, since you have properly functioning door stops, does the factory one hold the door open in one or two spots? Or anyone else who knows, please answer....

Just checked - holds in two positions, about halfway, and fully open.

Leon, thanks for the fast response!

Ok, made some good progress in the few minutes I had. Got the needed bolts for about a buck at THD.



Took a couple minutes to feed the door check through the rectangular opening, but it'll fit. For those who can take-off the speaker surround, it will be much faster. As stated earlier, it's a little longer, so I had to compress the arm to "shorten" it enough to this mounting hole.



Those new bolts in place...



Opened and closed the door slowly, and zero issues! Feels good. The moment of truth, on an incline...





For reference, the driver door has like zero resistance...

As you can see above, that door is about half way open. I'm quite sure due to it being too long, the full open stop is being missed. So, not ideal. That said, half open certainly allows us to get in and out, so an improvement...

Finding a Toyota door check that is a bit shorter, more near the length of ours, is next on the list. Any ideas?

For clarity; are you saying the door doesn't open all the way or that the full open position doesn't have tension stop the way it does at the half way open position?

Sorry about that. Was in a rush...

Door is open to the max, as permitted by the two hinges. This new door check would prefer to open further though, if that makes sense. It not catching that final full-open position.

Oh, like the hinge itself is the limiting issue? That's odd... I agree that half-way is better than nothing at all though!

Yup. The door hinges and check work together....

With the bolts, 14 bucks, so pretty darn good. And there's that other check (for the same makes & models) for 11 bucks, but not Prime at the moment. That said, I bet there is another Toyota door check, a more appropriate length, that allows for two stops (full and half open). So, for me, the experimentation continues...

I welcome others trying too. If you know of anyone who has other Toyota models, that might be a good place to start.