Yeah, I removed the starter to fix the black clip for the starter solenoid on it and I just removed the wires, unbolted the two starter bolts and snaked it out the bottom. As bad as everyone started to make it sound, I first wasted an hour trying to fix it in place so I wouldn't have to remove it and when I finally decided to just pull the starter it only took a few minutes. The only hard thing is you don't have much wrenching room, but aside from that, piece of cake!

I know there are lot of write ups out there, and many ways to do this, here is one from another perpective.
Starter repair without removing ANY thing except for the starter!

Pros: less things to disassemble
Cons: can only use one hand!, need another person for reinstallation.

Disconnect the NEG side from the battery.
Slide under the car, slide one hand to access the starter and remove the two electric connectors.
One bolted and one clipped.
Bear in mind that the clipped connector was PITA to take out.
I didn't want to risk breaking the clip, so took a long time.
I finally figured out that the clip is only on one side.
So pressing on the top with my thumb on it, then shaking it out.
Since I can only use one hand, using a flat head screw driver is not an option.

Now to tackle the two bolts, lower bolt was easier, just use a 14mm wrench.
The upper bolt required the use of a breaker bar and extension.
This was not fun at all since, there was so little space.
Can't imagine taking out the bolts without Flex Head Ratcheting GearWrench, that clicked only twice.
Anyway, as soon as the bolts were free, it drops a bit.
It will be wedge somewhere... wish it fell straight down.
Anyway maneuvering it out via the gap between the stabilizer bar and the trans stick. Just take it slow.

Open up the copper contact housing (3 #8 bolts) and clean it up with brake cleaner.
I bought a 'package' from clickerfixer off eBay.
The contacts look 90% close enough to the original.
The copper crescent shape was not as long as the original.
Pay more attention to the side that had a rubber boot,
as there is a connection to the soldered part in the starter.
Take it apart with care.
the plunger didn't look too bad, but I used the new one.

okay, for me this next step of placing the starter back in was another PITA moment.
The starter weights 10lbs, since I can only use one hand to maneuver it back it place,
every few seconds it felt heavier. Since it could come out, it definitely can go back in.
too a while to maneuver it back in place. Now, this is when you realize that gravity
works against you. There is no way you can hold it in pace and thread the bolt in
at the same time with ONE hand. So got my DW to assist from the top engine compartment.
I aligned it from the bottom, and she applied pressure to keep it in place,
while I threaded in the top bolt, then it was the home stretch.
tighten bolts, connect 2 elec wires, and battery.
Now it starts right up. So happy.....
Took me about 5 leisure hours.
Wear gloves and safety googgles, and having a Creeperto lay on helps.

So, it is possible to remove the starter only.
(4runner 09 6cly limited, 5VZFE)
It takes a bit of time and only using one hand for most part of the job.

(sigh... Quite disappointed that I can't upload photos here. It prompts for a Http site to point to. I guess I gotto load my pics in another forum then.)

Use Imageshack.us

You don't even have to sign up for it.

Lily, awesome. good thing you have a few thousand posts though on this forum, otherwise no one would take your word for it. haha. always find that funny on any forum.

Peoples ability to wrench on stuff is just as diverse as peoples driving skills.

Well, this makes me glad I found that the dealer replaced the starter in mine a few months before it was traded in and I bought it. PO payed $387 for a Toyota reman starter!

I've changed starters in a couple of late 80's pick ups (4cyl) and a 95 4runner (V6). Nothing to it, but you have to take your time to snake it out. It will only come out one way. If you snake the replacement starter in the wrong way, you can't turn it to mount it and will have to snake it out, and back in the correct way. If it won't snake out, you don't have it turned right to come out.

Dude, do you have pictures of what you are talking about? You make it seem so easy, but pics would help. I have a 2005 4runner sitting in my driveway and I can't even find where the damn starter is. I keep reading threads with these long explanations with no visuals. Seems to be on of no help to me. I need to see what it is you are talking about. Thanks!

This is for a 3rd gen 4runner (96-02). Your 4th gen is most likely different!
Would be probably best to search through the 4th gen section: LINK

I agree I took mine out the wheel well too and it really wasnt all that difficult you just needed to get the angle right. Glad you were able to get yours done

I've got no sway bar and it would not fit anywhere except out the wheel well... So... There is that...

I pulled the transmission dipstick (it pops/pulls right out), unbolted the hard brake lines from the frame (did not disconnect the lines!), and pulled it right out the wheel well (jacked up/wheel off obviously). Took all of 10 minutes.

I turned 19 on the day this thread was made.

It can never be as hard to remove as they are on the 3.0. Had to remove my buddies off his '92 pick up and it was a total b****.

So do all four runners have starters? I recently bought an "Eco-boost" hybrid 97 four runner, should I worry?



LOL JK,

Alright here's the real stuff, my runner takes like 4-5 cranks to get her going, should i do my starter contacts to rid this issue??




and I ****ing HATE when people write/type "four runner" OR "for runner" I mean come on! It's got a number in front!!!!!!

Long crank is not a starter contacts issue. Bad contacts keep it from cranking at all. Yours is more likely fuel issue, filter, pump, regulator, etc. Gerdo is the expert, I think.

Mine takes a several cranks too, but she always turns over