05-02-2010, 05:57 PM
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#1
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Steering bushing woes
I have tried for two days to get my steering bushings replaced. Yesterday I couldn't get the center mount loose. Today I just reamed on it with an impact wrench until it budged and then eventually worked the bolt out. However, when I went to attempt to get the bushings out, I couldn't get the rack back far enough to see them, much less replace them. The instructions call for removing the tie rod end from the steering knuckle, but the 4x4wire article says it can be done without doing that.
I know some of you have done this. Did you remove the tie rod end or no? It really feels like that's what is preventing the rack from moving enough to replace the bushings.
This job is a pain in the butt. Ugh.
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05-02-2010, 06:22 PM
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#2
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I did this over spring break and I agree - it's not easy. I did NOT removed the tie rod. I DID remove the entire sway bar through. Some of the bushings were really stuck and so I used a series of large washers stacked on top of each other, and a clamp to push them out. I took me and my dad under the truck the get this job done. Hope this helps. Hang in there.
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Last edited by spongerx; 05-02-2010 at 06:25 PM.
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05-02-2010, 06:29 PM
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#3
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Didn't even think to use a C-clamp. I have a large one. Might use that and a small socket or something to press them out. Thanks for the suggestion!
I'm done messing with it for today. Any other ideas are welcome.
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05-02-2010, 06:32 PM
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#4
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put the bolt back in it and hit it with a hammer, mine came out in 3sec like that. C clamps work great too
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05-02-2010, 06:32 PM
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#5
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Yeah man. C clamps are so handy. Always good to have a couple different sizes on hand.
These are good too.
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1997 SR5 5spd
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ISR - True Flow - Magnaflow - 285/75 BFG AT
Last edited by spongerx; 05-02-2010 at 06:34 PM.
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05-02-2010, 07:23 PM
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#6
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How were you guys able to get the center bushing out? I can't get it far enough out of the mount to get at it.
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05-02-2010, 09:30 PM
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#7
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I feel your pain
Some things like this are just best left to professionals. IRBIS did mine and for them it was like a 1/2 hour job. Once you know the secrets then the 2nd time you do something it is so simple.
Not sure if the part is applicable but Checker/O'Reilly loans out a tool called a steering wheel puller. Of course your application is not a steering wheel but if you see the components of the kit it may fit your needs. Sure beats struggling with it.
We just removed crankshaft bolt and then the pulley on the MR2 and I sure wish I knew then what I know now. We fabbed up a home-made set of Special Service Tools that I now see Checker would have loaned us for free... doh...
Step away from the truck when frustrated. Sip a cold one and talk it out with us and we'll get you through it sir.
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05-02-2010, 09:40 PM
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#8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by durrell
How were you guys able to get the center bushing out? I can't get it far enough out of the mount to get at it.
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I helped but was not the expert with mine, I remember having to undo something from the steering shaft to get the column to move back far enough and then you can easily get to the bushings.
DO NOT move the steering wheel with it discoed though as it will spin freely and will spin up all the cords/wires etc...
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05-02-2010, 09:56 PM
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#9
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luckily for you, I did mine yesterday!
I removed both tie rods and the steering shaft because it was way easier than wrestling with the thing while laying on my back. A little muscle and some WD40 and the bushings should pop out of their spots.
Like Duhockey said, if you do disconnect the steering shaft, make sure the steering wheel is locked first!
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05-02-2010, 10:44 PM
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#10
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I didn't disconnect anything--tie rods, shaft, or swaybar. A C-clamp and the extra metal bushing in the Wheeler's kit were key. Also I took another members suggestion and rammed the red tube from a can of WD40 in between the old rubber bushing and the hole in a few places. It was not easy, but it was impossible until I found the right C-clamp.
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05-02-2010, 10:58 PM
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#11
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I definitely made sure the steering wheel was locked. C-clamp definitely seems to be the way to go. I got the largest poly bushing installed..the one closest to the passenger side.
This may be a dumb question, but steering is probably one of the things I know the least about on a car. (Although this experience has certainly helped a lot..) Can the tie rod/knuckle simply be unbolted, or is there some special tool that is needed to disconnect/reconnect it?
And Ron, as for the tip with frustration..I left every single tool just laying under the truck, backed it out and closed the garage door. That's how it still sits. I put everything back together because I have to drive it to work tomorrow, but I will probably re-attempt it tomorrow evening.
Thanks for all the help, guys..
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05-03-2010, 12:17 AM
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#12
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2002 SR5 4WD
deckplate + ISR, Airlift 1000, OME 881/890, Goodyear Wrangler Duratrac 265/75/16C
Tundra 231mm Brakes - yes they DO fit the stock 5 spoke rims - Stubbs Welding HD-SKO sliders.
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05-03-2010, 12:21 AM
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#13
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i took a torch to mine and cooked them out. then i soaped up the new ones and they went in fine. i didn't take off the tie rods or anything but pulling the skid plate really helped
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