Yea that's an official document. I've done that on the two I've owned one with 78k mi other 198k.
Could have used floor jack with the math.

This may have been discussed before, but i have searched and read a lot of old forum posts and am seeing mixed reviews.

But same as most 3rd gen owners. I am looking to lift my vehicle because my current suspension is tired. Current lift i am looking at here but am open to other lift options around the same price point.

Fronts

OME 880: Stock front weight, 1.5-inch lift

OME 881: Stock front weight, 2.5-inch lift

Rears

OME 906: Medium 1.5-inch lift coils

OME 890: Medium 2.5-3 inch lift coils

Personally i think about a 2 (+ -) inch lift would be perfect for what i am plan on using the vehicle for. I have heard mix reviews with both combos of 880/906 and 881/906 having rear sag. I, like most owners am looking to 100% not have my rear sit lower. I think the combo of the lower front lift spring(880) and the higher rear spring(890) will eliminate that possibility.



Have other owners run the 880 up front with the 890 in the rear? Are the pan hard correction kit and or front diff drop necessary for this?



Any insights on this would be appreciated. Please post some pics of your 3rd Gens!

I have a mostly original 2001 Limited. Like you mention, my suspension was tired. Don't let the tires fool you, it's had a very hard life. So, I just did this upgrade 2 months ago.
Front: OME 880 + Bilstein 5100 (on lowest perch)
Rear: OME 906 + Bilstein 5100

Here are the measurements I recorded completely unloaded, fender-lip to hub-center.
Before Install (tired original springs):
- Front: 20"
- Rear: 19.5"
- Panhard Bar Dvr-Pass = -1"
After Install (OME 880/906):
- Front: 21"
- Rear: 22(dvr), 21.5(pas)
- With Axle Side Panhard Correction: 0"

The 880/906 is a good combo that gives a slight forward lean. That works for me because I often carry stuff in the back. There are panhard correction kits with axle and frame extensions. I installed the axle side only (since the lift was very minor). I am very happy with this setup.

Note: there is a small dvr vs pass side height difference. The OME springs are side specific, with that difference to account for gas tank load. I think my tank is pretty empty at the moment.

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does anyone have any thoughts on running a 6112/5160/OME 890 setup with on my rig? i currently only have a rear bumper (~135lbs) and have plans to add a sleeping platform on the back. i don't think i'll be putting armor on the front anytime soon, but may later down the line, which is the reason why i wanted something adjustable up front.

would this setup be pretty futureproof? are there potential sagging issues in the front with a bumper later down the line?

I'd say so. I'm not running a rear bumper or storage, but have everything else you mentioned. I wheel with 5 people inside,gear and recovery equipment regularly.

You'll want a pan hard correction for sure with the 890. I have a big rake at the moment, but am planning to move to the 2.3 setting up front next help that. I also run a which up front.

You can also go with a heavier rate spring up front in the future if needed. Stock 6112 uses 600lb springs. King makes a 650 I think and one other. Maybe bilstein?

It's a very high value proposition in my opinion with OEM level parts. They are well built with high quality isolators and fantastic dust seals. Is there better high performance options and more custom options out there. Yes. It they come with some additional challenges and maintenance. Race car parts usually but not always have race car maintenance.

I was in Elko around Thanksgiving, and a Tacoma with a full king set up and all kinds of aftermarket bushing set up was at a gas station. man, It was squeaking so loudly as it made a U-turn in the parking lot. Probably from the dirt and salt it had been in.

I wanted an Oem but better experience without lots of drama, valving and maintenance. I think the combo of parts you are asking about does all of that well at an incredible price point. I think you have to spend a good amount more money to really take a considerable jump in capability. Good tires and airing down is going to get you the rest of the way there in my opinion.

I would totally buy 6112s/5160 again in a heartbeat. Hell, I'd buy 8112s if they made it for our application.

thanks for your reply. i ended up going with 5100s with 881s up front and 891s in the rear, with jba ucas to support it. while i've heard so much about how 6112s are so worth the money and a great investment, i decided on this for two reasons
1. budget
2. usage

i dont plan on offroading my vehicle or going on hard trails very often, this rig is more so meant for long distance travel and camping in "remote" areas. dont plan on doing anything impressive when it comes to offroading and dont want to push the limits of what it can do.

do you have any thoughts on this? i could always just cancel the order and place the 6112s but to be honest, i think? ill be okay.

Tundra 6112's 650#, LC 5160's 4Rnr 890's 10mm trim pack 3" lift F & R, PCK.
Coming up on 4 yrs. step up from 5100's not a King's ransom no complaints.

5100's are great also. They'll serve you well.

Hello all. I have a 3” Ironman Offroad lift in the back and just some cheap lo ebay struts with a 2.5” spacer in the front. But would really love to increase ride quality on the front, i just dont really understand coilovers and which lifted struts i can use for my 4r. Even after reading the “Lift” post. It was very detailed just was missing the answer to my exact question. What struts (without spacer) can i put on the front to give it a 2.5”-3” lift to even out the lift. I know thats a leveling kit but even with the 2.5 spacer thats on right now it is not level with the ironman offroad 3” in the back. I know this makes it hard but money is a factor, this is a budget build. Driving from Michigan to Colorado in May and am really trying to have a smooth ride.

Thanks in advanced!

I have spent hours searching this forum and several others and I cant seem to find a definitive (or close to) answer regarding lift+larger tires+ spacers. I would just experiment with this but this vehicle lives at my parent's place 500 miles away and I will only have a few days to install everything before I need to have it fully operational.

I have a 2000 SR5. I am planning a 2" lift (881/890) w stock wheels.
It seems the only safe bet for tire size is 265/75/16, although I'd go larger if I could be sure it wouldnt be a huge pain to resolve rubbing issues.
Then the spidertrax question comes into play.

Can anyone point me to a thread, or directly answer whether or not I will have issues with rubbing with a 2" lift, stock wheels, BFG KO2 (265/75/16), and 1.25" spidertrax?

And if that is no issue - how large a tire can I fit with this setup without issues?

32s should have no issues with rubbing even on stock suspension and with those spacers (I had 32s with the 1.5" spacers that came on my truck and had no issues). I'm running pizza cutter 33s and barely had to clear anything. I have an ever so slight rub on the back of the wheel well but it's just on the part of the plastic sticking out the most and it's only when I'm in reverse.

With the right alignment and no spacers, that will for sure fit. With the spacers, it may rub in the back side of the front wheel wells due to the increased scrub radius.

-Charlie

What @phattyduck said, same experience.

Dang I thought I would get email notifications for replies and didnt check until just now. Thanks y'all. That is really helpful. Now I can order parts and prepare to spend an afternoon saying unsavory things while battling ancient rusted suspension.