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Old 06-19-2020, 01:28 PM #811
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 96RedRunner View Post
@Devbot , regarding the panhard bar. Go with the EimKeith panhard correction kit.
Money well spent, you use the bar you have, keeps factory geometry, centers axle. Used them on both of my Runners.

does that weld on or bolt on to the axel
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Old 06-19-2020, 01:33 PM #812
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 3bears View Post
does that weld on or bolt on to the axel
It's a weld-on kit.
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Old 06-19-2020, 07:29 PM #813
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 96RedRunner View Post
When I was building my Runner I didn't want to buy rear springs twice.
I put 120 lb's of weight plates between wheel wells at seat back until I got rear bumper built to smooth out ride.
Bags of sand, gravel, a lot of things with a later use will do the job.
I was also considering this, but I'm just not sure when I'll be able to necessarily afford one. Lotta money to drop on a bumper and I have some other things to tackle first (like wheels and other susp components). I'll keep this in mind though, thanks
EDIT: Also worried about weight shifting around, forgot to mention
Quote:
Originally Posted by 96RedRunner View Post
@Devbot , regarding the panhard bar. Go with the EimKeith panhard correction kit.
Money well spent, you use the bar you have, keeps factory geometry, centers axle. Used them on both of my Runners.
Will take a peek! Any particular reason to choose it over SRQ's? I'm only asking because that's who I'm buying the kit from, and they offer to add the PCK with the order
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Last edited by Devbot; 06-19-2020 at 09:48 PM.
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Old 06-19-2020, 08:59 PM #814
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@Devbot , Didn't know SRQ was selling them, don't know what they look like.
Eimkeith's PCK works, like design, easy to weld on, good guy to deal with.
I tend to support folks that do the concept to finished product like he has.
Same with Plasticsguy and his durabumps.
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Old 06-19-2020, 09:31 PM #815
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Scratch that - I went to the page to snag the image and saw they're actually Eimkeith's! Funny

Edit: Does OME make any "medium" front coils, that also provide 2.5-3in - like something between the 881 and 883? Another concern I had is that my steel bumper might not warrant a real heavy set of 883's, but I have a feeling it will sag with the 881 coils which are for stock weight (bumpers maybe like 50-75lbs, hard to tell). Mainly, I just don't want to ruin the driveability during the week on my way to/from work
I looked up 882 coils but turns out they're stiffer than 883's - that sound right? Also reading conflicting information as to what offers what height
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Last edited by Devbot; 06-19-2020 at 11:12 PM.
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Old 06-20-2020, 08:21 AM #816
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There are tradeoffs when lifting these Runners. Lifts I've used 2.5"-3" lift Fr, 3"-4" lift Rr.
I ran the SS1.2 lift with Billy's on 96RedRunner for 9 yrs 120k miles happy the whole time. Totaled 3-18.
Bought 01 2-17 put OME 3" kit 881 springs 90004 struts, 890 springs 60073 shocks, rough ride gave it a year to settle in
never did to my liking. Thought and researched for a year, March this year my 01 got Bilstein B8 Tundra 6112's on front, Bilstein LC 5160's on the rear with OME 890's. The new 890's a bit stiff, added 100 lb of weight plates till I build my rear bumper, rides how I like it. We'll see if I stick with the 890's, LC 7.5 wrap springs my next choice, 8 wraps more rake than I want this time.

For your reference the 01 fat lip bumper weighed 93 lbs, I think your bumper weighs the same. The AOR plate bumper weighed 104 lb, the 881 springs didn't sag at all with 11 lb weight difference. My opinion the OME struts and shocks are valved to stiff for Runners at stock weight didn't help any with more weight.
Again my opinion Billy 5100's valved for stock Runner are not a good choice for a Runner with added weight, your in the neighborhood of what a stock Tundra/LC weighs, Tundra/LC valving makes for a nice ride street or trail.

Last edited by 96RedRunner; 06-20-2020 at 08:25 AM.
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Old 06-20-2020, 11:38 AM #817
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Devbot View Post
Scratch that - I went to the page to snag the image and saw they're actually Eimkeith's! Funny

Edit: Does OME make any "medium" front coils, that also provide 2.5-3in - like something between the 881 and 883? Another concern I had is that my steel bumper might not warrant a real heavy set of 883's, but I have a feeling it will sag with the 881 coils which are for stock weight (bumpers maybe like 50-75lbs, hard to tell). Mainly, I just don't want to ruin the driveability during the week on my way to/from work
I looked up 882 coils but turns out they're stiffer than 883's - that sound right? Also reading conflicting information as to what offers what height
880- 500 LB/IN 365 mm free height
881- 500 LB/IN 375 mm free height
882- 500 LB/IN 395 mm free height
883- 590 LB/IN 375 mm free height

882's are longer free height but softer spring rate than 883's
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Old 06-20-2020, 12:48 PM #818
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 96RedRunner View Post
For your reference the 01 fat lip bumper weighed 93 lbs, I think your bumper weighs the same...
Again my opinion Billy 5100's valved for stock Runner are not a good choice for a Runner with added weight, your in the neighborhood of what a stock Tundra/LC weighs, Tundra/LC valving makes for a nice ride street or trail.
Do they really? I've taken mine off before and it didn't seem that heavy - I'll have to find a way to measure my new one. It's a tube bumper so shouldn't be too bad, hopefully
In relation to the shocks I was curious about how these were valved, but saw a quite a few running way more gear than I and still approved of them. Maybe I'll take a look around; I'm certainly not tied to Bilstein and you really can't put a price on comfort.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bad Luck View Post
880- 500 LB/IN 365 mm free height
881- 500 LB/IN 375 mm free height
882- 500 LB/IN 395 mm free height
883- 590 LB/IN 375 mm free height

882's are longer free height but softer spring rate than 883's
Thank you. Just logically speaking it makes more sense they would be softer than 883s. I also just read that 882s are good for 100ish extra lbs of gear, opposed to the 200+ of the 883s, which would coincide. Might have to go for those - seems like they compress/flex very well too
Thank you guys really appreciate the help

Edit: weighed the steel bumper, it's almost 60lbs even.
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Last edited by Devbot; 06-21-2020 at 11:36 AM.
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Old 06-21-2020, 08:23 AM #819
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@Devbot , maybe there is a difference in weight between what you have and my 01 limited fatlip,
I'm talking crash bar turns fogs valance flares brackets at corners nuts and bolts.
I used a regular body weight scale to weigh both.

Ride quality is subjective to the nut connecting driver seat to steering wheel.
Bilstein is good stuff at a good price, my experience is with Tundra/LC setup with OEM springs.
Or what I'm running now with Tundra B8-6112's and LC B-5160's and OME 890's.

Last edited by 96RedRunner; 06-21-2020 at 08:30 AM.
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Old 07-03-2020, 02:41 PM #820
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Are there any 3in coil options that are a good alternative for OME? My problem is their springs are either rated for stock weight or 250+ lbs each, and I'll only be running about 150ish on both ends (bumper/winch+bumper/tire carrier)
I was considering TRD shocks/coils up front, but am unsure of the weight they can take before sagging and what to go with in back. I also hear loads of people say OME's are still very stiff even when fully loaded, and I'd prefer to have some give in my springs.
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Last edited by Devbot; 07-03-2020 at 02:58 PM.
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Old 07-06-2020, 05:44 PM #821
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I've been trying to find a good 3in coil that's not OME or Toytec, but I think those are it
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Old 07-29-2020, 11:40 PM #822
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Did you ever find an alternative? Currently coming back to this and once again can't decide on rear coils. Seems like everybody says OME or LC, but then promptly complains about either one in some way.
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Old 07-30-2020, 08:30 AM #823
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Devbot View Post
Seems like everybody says OME or LC, but then promptly complains about either one in some way.
I've run both. 96Red 8 wrap LC's with LC Bilstein 5100's, rode nice handled weight well. 8 wrap about 4" lift, 7.5 wrap about 3" lift.

Current Runner have OME 890's about 3" lift paired with LC Bilstein 5160's couple thousand miles on this combo. Stock rear bumper rides nice empty,
100-130 lb's weight plates in cargo area sqauts 1/2" approx rides nice.
Springs for weight load, shocks for ride quality, OME shocks suck, 16k mi on OME 3" lift kit proved it.
This Runner now has Billy Tundra 6112's front, Billy LC 5160's/890 springs rear, like it no complaints.

This mix n match of suspension parts is very subjective I may like something you may differ.

Last edited by 96RedRunner; 07-30-2020 at 08:33 AM.
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Old 08-08-2020, 01:25 PM #824
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Originally Posted by steezemcqueen View Post
Written by 99yota4, Brian2sun, ChildrenOfBodom, Duhockey, kregg, steezemcqueen, xskydivingdudex


One of the most popular modifications to the 4Runner is to put on a suspension lift. There are many different options and many can be confusing. Hopefully this thread will help you decide on which lift is best for you.

Here are several important factors to help you decide the best lift option for your 4Runner:
  • How much do you want to spend? Many times this becomes the deciding factor.
  • What purpose are you lifting the vehicle? for off-road? Just for the look?
  • Do you want to run bigger tires after lifting?
  • What are the additional weight requirements that you might carry over stock.
What are you lifting it for?
Written by kregg

Will you just drive on road? Will you wheel it? There are a lot of things to consider before doing it...

Not only will larger tires affect your gas mileage, but also your acceleration, braking, cornering, and the overall "feel" of the truck will change when you start messing with the suspension.

Can you daily drive a lifted 4Runner? Heck yea.
Is it economical? No. adding bigger tires too doesn't make your truck get better gas mileage either.

If you lift it - expect a "stiffer" ride. There are too many personal variables to define whether this ride is better or worse than stock. In terms of ride comfort, the general consensus is this ---- Spacers (Daystar/Revtek) --> Rear Coils / Front Spacer combo (OME/Spacer kit from Toytec) --> Full Coil lifts (Toytec/Sonoran Steel/OME) ---- Adding new, longer shocks to any of these kits will greatly improve the comfort and ability of each of these kits. Again, there are a thousand varieties of shocks to choose from. I think my truck rides pretty good for what I've done to it. I'd like to have a little softer feel up front, but for a lifted SUV the ride isn't unbearable. When I had my 285's I think I lost 2-3 MPG's per tank, but I wheeled it at least once a week or so, running in 4WD doesn't help the MPG's either.

Types of lifts:

Spacers
The least expensive way to lift your 4Runner is by using a coil spacer. A coil spacer basically preloads the spring which lifts the truck. Spacers can be used for up to 3" of lift. Spacers are seen as inexpensive because they do add a lift but are not recommended by most for off road. These serve more for aesthetic purposes and while they can be used on stock coils, they can also cause sagging of the stock coils at a faster rate.

Coil Spacers vs Top Plate Spacers
The coil spacer sits inside the coil/shock assembly and just compresses the spring most than normal which creates lift. The advantage to this type of spacer is that it does not change the geometry of the factory setup. However, they can cause a harsh ride especially if you coil springs are old and sagging. They are also more difficult to install. The top plate spacer bolts on to the top of the coil/shock assembly and extends the shock down to create lift. The advantage to the top plate spacer is that they do not change the ride of the truck at all and they are generally easier to install. The disadvantage is that you are extending the length of the shock and the shock is what limits the travel of the front suspension. By extending that shock, you are also extended the travel of the suspension past what it was designed for. This can cause problems with overextended ball joints and CV axles.

Pros: Inexpensive, gives a decent amount of lift,
Cons: Coil spacers can stiffen the ride and prematurely sag the springs. Top plate spacers can over extended shocks, CV, and ball joints

Old Man Emu (OME) Lift Spring
Old Man Emu(a division of ARB) makes lift springs for the front and rear of the 4Runner. Many people are running these for lift. They are not overly expensive and still provide a good amount of lift and a quality ride. Trim packers can also be added to front and rear coils to ensure a leveled lift as many commonly misunderstand this.

Front options are:
  • 880 1" lift coil for stock weight.
  • 881 2.5" lift coil for stock weight.
  • 883 3" lift coil designed for 100 lbs. additional front weight.
  • 882 3" lift coil designed for 150+ lbs additional front weight.
  • A top plate spacer can be combined with the 881 coil for a full 3" lift
for the rear you can choose from:
  • 906 2" lift coil
  • 890 3" lift coil
  • 891 3" lift coil designed for additional weight.
Pros: Provides a decent amount of lift, gives a quality ride.
Cons: Not adjustable, more expensive than spacers. can sag over time.

Coilovers
Another way to lift your truck up to 3.5 is by using a adjustable coilover in the front and a lift spring like a OME or a FJ80 Landcruiser spring in the rear. A coilover is an adjustable shock/coil assembly that can be adjusted from stock height up to 3.5 depending on the brand. Just remember that the higher you crank the coilover up, the stiffer the ride becomes and the harsher your CV angle becomes. Coilovers are an excellent way to lift the front of your truck, and in some cases is an improvement on the stock ride quality. As good as coilovers are, they are also more expensive then spacers or a coil lift (like the OME above). An inexpensive coilover will cost around $1000 and can cost up to $2000 a set for the complete front and rear kit.

Pros: Adjustable height, best ride quality.
Cons: Expensive.

The FJ80 Landcruiser Spring
a cheap effective way to achieve a good amount of lift and flex is to install FRONT springs from a FJ80 (1991-1997) Landcruiser in the REAR of the 3rd gen. there are many different versions of these springs but that main way to identify them is to count how many wraps they have which generally will determine how much lift you will get. you can usually pick up a pair of these for under $100 at a junkyard or on a forum classified section.
  • 7 wrap is about 3-3.5" of lift
  • 8 is about 4"
  • 9 is about 5"
Height of spring/color code/wraps
  • 21" Blue Pink White 9.25 wraps
  • 21" Grey Orange White 9.25 wraps
  • 20.25" Blue Yellow White 8.75 wraps-one of these is a confirmed LX450
  • 19.5" Green Yellow White 8.25 wraps-one of these is a confirmed LX450
  • 19.5" Purple Green White 8 wraps
  • 19.25" Double Purple Dark Blue White 8 wraps
  • 19" Double Pink Light Blue White 7.5 wraps
  • 18.5" Double Pink Grey White 7.5 wraps
  • 18 7/8" Orange Orange White 7.75 wraps
you can also use the OME 851, which is a lift spring for the FJ80. that usually gives about 6 inches of lift.

Pros: Cheap, lots of lift, flexes really well.
Cons: Will sag under load.

The TRD Tundra Spring

The front spring and shock from the 2000-06 Tundra TRD can be used to lift the front of the 4Runner. The part numbers and color codes are:

  • Driver side - 48131-AF100 Yellow/Yellow
  • Passenger side - 48131-AF090 Yellow/Blue

These springs are a progressive rate coil which means that they start out soft and get stiffer as they compress. this gives the 4Runner and soft ride while still providing good handling both on and off road. These springs generally yield about 2.5" of lift. there are companies selling the Tundra spring with a Bilstein adjustable shock which can be adjusted to get more lift.

Pros: Provides a decent amount of lift, durable.
Cons: Can settle and give a harsher ride, not as adjustable as a coilover

The 99 Highlander Springs
If you want a small lift or have worn out springs, a good option might be to change out your springs for springs from the 1999 4Runner Highlander Edition. these springs sat 1" higher than any other 3rd Gen 4Runner. They can be ordered online or at a Toyota dealer.

99 spring part numbers:
  • Front Passenger Side Springs - Blue / Yellow (48131-35400)
  • Front Driver Side Springs - Blue / Pink (48131 - 35350)
  • Both Rear Springs - Yellow / Red (48231 - 35210)

Pros: Fairly inexpensive, OEM ride quality.
Cons: Small amount of lift. (might be all you want)

Other Suspension Lift Components:
There are many other parts to lift the 3rd Gen other than just springs and shocks. some are required, some are highly recommended, and some are optional.

The Diff Drop
On 4Runners with suspension lifts over 2", the front CV axles operate at great an angle which increases wear and tear and can cause them to break under off-road conditions. One simple cure for this problem is to lower the differential on the front axle to reduce the angle on the CVs. So with a 1" diff drop on a 3" lifted truck, it returns the CV angles closer to that of a milder 2" lift.

Upper Control Arms
Aftermarket upper control arms allow for greater wheel travel, clearance between tire and UCA, and they improve alignment by adding more adjustability to the caster and camber. this will make the 4Runner easier to align and be able to get it right back to stock specs.

The Panhard Drop/Longer Panhard Bar
The panhard rod drop bracket lowers the frame end of the panhard rod to compensate for the rear end lift. The panhard rod helps to locate the rear axle side to side and if not adjusted for the lift, it will tend to pull the axle towards the passenger side due to its higher angle from the frame to the axle bracket.

Extended Brake Lines
When you lift the 4Runner, the distance between the body and the rear axle increases. there is a flexible brake line that runs down from the body to the rear axle and has slack which allows the suspension to travel and articulate. when you lift it, some of that slack is taken up and the line may not have enough to allow the suspension to articulate. a longer brake line will cure this.


Body Lifts:
Written by Brian2sun

Body lifts come in .5", 1", 1.5" 2", 2.5", and 3" (or anything in-between if you make it custom). Most of us (myself included) think BLs are best used in addition to a suspension lift primarily to clear bigger tires easier. Although you can do a BL alone, you only get clearance for bigger tires - unlike a suspension lift which still gives you more clearance for tires, but you also get more ground clearance for the chassis and more travel/articulation in the suspension too. I run a 3" OME suspension lift along with a 1" BL to clear my 33.5"+ tires. W/O the BL, my tires would rub.

If you are doing it strictly for looks, leave now. Really, though a BL is THE CHEAPEST WAY TO LIFT. So if you are a mall queen, this might be best for you.

1-1.5" BLs on '97-02s don't require anything special except removing the lower radiator shroud (which takes seconds). If you have a stock bumper, you'll want to get a bumper bracket lift so you won't have a gap between the body and the bumper (since the body goes up but the bumper is connected to the frame which stays put). '96s have 2 less body mounts than the other 3rd gens so those must be added to do a BL (safely at least) as well as a steering rag joint extension. All of these extras can be purchased from:
Toyota 4Runner/Hilux Surf Body Lift Kit Pricing/Ordering Page

If you're doing a more than a 1" BL, there are modifications you need to make like dropping the radiator and extending shifter linkage. For more info:
3rd Gen 4Runner Body Lift Installation

Installing a BL (especially a 1" on a '97-02) is pretty easy even if you have limited mechanical knowledge. If you're the DIY type (which you better learn to be fast in this hobby), refer to the link directly above for important info.

Pros: Cheap, easy to install, can be added to a suspension lift for more height.
Cons: Does not increase ground clearance or suspension travel.

Prices:

Generally you get what you pay for when it comes to performance and comfort with your suspension. here are a few examples of what you can expect to pay for different types of lift kits

Spacer kits: $100-200
Front spacer/ rear coil lift: $200-350
New coil springs(no shocks): $300- 400
Shocks and coil springs: $600-800
Adjustable coilover kits: $1000-2000

Companies:
there are many different companies that offer lifts for the 3rd Gen 4Runner. which company you choose to go with depends on what your needs are.
here are a few companies with what they offer
NOTE: these companies and many others offer much more than what is listed, these are just examples of what is offered.

After you install your lift

GET AN ALIGNMENT

How much lift do i have?/What is the stock vehicle measurement?

Its hard to say exact since there are a different height stock springs (99 talls vs 01-02) and the stock springs will probably have some sag by now. But a good baseline is that most 3rd gens should measure 20 inches from the center of the hub up to the fender in the front and about 20.5 in the rear.

Disclaimer thing:
This writeup is for informational purposes only. I have compiled info that I have written, info that others have submitted, and info from other articles. I take no credit for what other people have written and I assume no responsibility for what you choose after you read this. This writeup is not meant to promote any particular companies products. It is strictly to explain the many options for lifting the 3rd gen.

PM me if you see something that should be added or changed. Mods, if you feel something should be edited, feel free to do it. Please just PM me the changes.
Thank you for this! This is like the holy grail of info!
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Old 08-11-2020, 02:03 PM #825
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Man, posts like these make me already LOVE this site/forum. You guys are incredibly helpful. Damn grateful to have access to this knowledge base.
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