[zz_denis]

Great write up.
I have a question that I couldn't find an answer to. I looked through all the replies briefly so its possible that I've missed it.

Is it possible to use axle assemblies from a non-ABS 4runner in an ABS axle housing? I'm guessing that non-ABS axles will not have the skid rotor gear ring on them?
I'm doing an E-Locker swap into my non-ABS 4runner with 50k original miles, and I have a complete E-Locker rear axle from a 4runner with ABS but 250k miles, so I want to use my original, low mileage axles in the E-Locker housing if possible.
Thanks!

EDIT: Found an answer in a different thread - I will need custom machined spacers on non-abs axles to move the seal ring into proper place (further away from the brake drums)

[JRZEE2000TR4LTD]

Originally Posted by 3or4runner

Thanks!

If you are referring to the O-Ring that goes between the bearing housing and the axle housing, I think I would prefer it to leak there, then the gear oil wouldn't get on the brakes. it would drain out before ever getting to the backing plate.

Would you agree?

Yep, that seal does pretty much seal it up. I think centrifugal force along with the slight pressure kinda "spins" the oil out between the inner part of the bearing and the shaft.

[chuckd83]

Originally Posted by BigFishAllDay

Skybill,

Yes, you can get away with that. As long as you feel comfortable that your bearings are within specs, you can skip all the machine shop work, replace the O-Rings, Inner Axle Seals, and Shoes and you should be fine.

If you decide to do the shoes, get your drums machined as well. Also, you may want to dig through the link I provided in the write-up for the Toyota FSM and see if you can find a procedure for checking the bearings to make sure they are within spec. I'm sure this will require some type of SST, so you may want to take the axles to a Toyota shop and have them check the bearings for you.

Also, don't take a chance with aftermarket axle seals. Get the OEM seals from Toyota. Same with the brake shoes, aftermarket rear shoes have fitment issues in my experience.

Opened up my passenger drum this weekend and there was grease everywhere. Looks like I'll be doing this. Anybody find this procedure to determine if new bearings are necessary? I'd rather spend $30 than $600.

Great write up by the way.

[genEus]

Originally Posted by chuckd83

Opened up my passenger drum this weekend and there was grease everywhere. Looks like I'll be doing this. Anybody find this procedure to determine if new bearings are necessary? I'd rather spend $30 than $600.

Great write up by the way.

I love this thread, as many others do as well - thanks OP.

Can someone please provide some definitive way to determine whether one needs to replace the bearings or not? Mine, at 165,000 miles, have a little play in them, but aside from the seals leaking (with a plugged up breather valve), I don't notice any other noises coming from the rear wheels or feel any weird driving issues. When I rock the backing plate back and forth I can definitely see the play, but it's not entirely obvious to me how much play would require a new set of bearings. If I can get up to 200k and then replace the bearings then, or have it be someone else's problem, I'd be happier.

I got all the parts to do the bearing replacement, and am already at $300, but then I got to thinking whether I really really need to do it or not.

Can anyone provide any advice?

[StingRay98-00]

Even if the bearings were pristine gear oil will have leaked through the bearing washing away the grease leading to eventual failure. While oil is passing through the bearings they continue to receive lubrication and can last for years but not indefinitely. You might be able to pop the plastic shield and repack the bearing. How long it would last or whether it's actually possible on that bearing I don't know. Replacement is your best option. If only one side is leaking you can do everything on that side and on the good side (never leaked but destined to leak) swap in a new seal. I did this on one of mine and that was 50 thousand miles ago and still leak free.

[StingRay98-00]

The gear oil can actually infiltrate the bearing washing the grease out. This is why the bearings are supposed to be replaced. grease is far thicker than oil. The seals on the bearings are not oil seals.

Originally Posted by 3or4runner

Thanks for this great write-up! A very well made DIY!

I am wondering how gear oil leaks past the bearing. In the picture above, it is hard for me to see how gear oil would flow past the bearing. But, looking at the pictures of your brakes (elsewhere in the thread), it sure seems like a lot of fluid flowed onto the brake shoes/brake system. It appears the O-Ring between the backing plate and the axle flange kept gear oil from leaking out before getting onto the brakes...would you agree? i.e. if the O-Ring was not present and making a good seal, the gear oil would have leaked out down the back-side of the backing plate onto the ground instead of getting all over the brake shoes. No?

My guess is the bearing presses into the backing plate/flange, and the Retainer presses onto the shaft to hold the bearing in place? i.e. the bearing is not pressed onto the shaft, only into the backing plate. Which makes the retainer necessary to hold the bearing in place on the axle shaft.

The reason I ask all this is I wonder if your old bearings had gear oil in them? Or, since they appear to be sealed bearings, were their seals OK and the gear oil flowed between the bearing and the retainer to make its way out onto the brake shoes?

Thanks again!

[wjamyers]

Originally Posted by wjamyers

Search here:
Toyota Parts Factory | Your #1 Source for Genuine OEM Toyota - Scion Parts and Accessories

That's what I did.

I'm buying nearly all of my parts from camelback. they are owning the competition, IMO.

Ok. Update. I followed this write up to the tee. I just passed my 1 year anniversary safety inspection with flying colors.

I used Fairfax Auto Parts machine shop to press the bearings:
NAPA Fairfax Auto Parts - One of Virginia's largest Auto Parts Dealer. - Auto Parts, Wholesale, and Machine Shop
they have a solid rep around here and they turned them around in about 3 hours for $170.59.

I replaced the brake shoes as recommended after I tried to soak/clean/cook the old shoes (they were practically brand new!) but failed inspection again as oil keep seeping out even after all night in a toaster oven at 400 (stupid, don't waste your time).

I am not a mechanic and not particularly mechanically inclined and I did this in my driveway in a couple of days and it saved me a ton of money but more importantly, gained me a ton of knowledge and self-confidence.

Thanks BigFishAllDay!

[gkinng]

Originally Posted by wjamyers

Ok. Update. I followed this write up to the tee. I just passed my 1 year anniversary safety inspection with flying colors.

I used Fairfax Auto Parts machine shop to press the bearings:
NAPA Fairfax Auto Parts - One of Virginia's largest Auto Parts Dealer. - Auto Parts, Wholesale, and Machine Shop
they have a solid rep around here and they turned them around in about 3 hours for, I think, $120, don't remember exactly, it was a fair price whatever it was.

I replaced the brake shoes as recommended after I tried to soak/clean/cook the old shoes (they were practically brand new!) but failed inspection again as oil keep seeping out even after all night in a toaster oven at 400 (stupid, don't waste your time).

I am not a mechanic and not particularly mechanically inclined and I did this in my driveway in a couple of days and it saved me a ton of money but more importantly, gained me a ton of knowledge and self-confidence.

Thanks BigFishAllDay!

I have spent $1800 total getting everything replaced and they started to leak
again. I might take my axles there and have them press everything on.

[genEus]

Originally Posted by StingRay98-00

Even if the bearings were pristine gear oil will have leaked through the bearing washing away the grease leading to eventual failure. While oil is passing through the bearings they continue to receive lubrication and can last for years but not indefinitely. You might be able to pop the plastic shield and repack the bearing. How long it would last or whether it's actually possible on that bearing I don't know. Replacement is your best option. If only one side is leaking you can do everything on that side and on the good side (never leaked but destined to leak) swap in a new seal. I did this on one of mine and that was 50 thousand miles ago and still leak free.

OK so I got new bearings pressed on by the dealer... 2 hours of labor, oh well.

One of the axles still has a little up/down wiggle when I shake the backplate, although a much less pronounced wiggle than before, and I am able to send the backplate spinning easily. The other side has absolutely no wiggle, and the backplate will not spin on its own, only for as long as I push it around. Is this a normal difference in tolerances, or did they not do something exactly right? Someone else picked up the parts for me, so I wasn't able to test them until I got home tonight... (My wishful thinking says that it's a minor difference that will equalize over a few miles of actual driving)

[wjamyers]

Originally Posted by gkinng

I have spent $1800 total getting everything replaced and they started to leak
again. I might take my axles there and have them press everything on.

no warranty on the work? I had someone do it without doing the bearings once. stupid waste of money, IMO.

Edit: yeah, BTW, they didn't need any instruction from me, old hat to them, they probably could do it in their sleep.

[catranger]

Big Fish - incredible report. Great job!

[llancer04]

Anyone else having trouble viewing the pics. Im about to do this repair on my truck. Was only going to get the inner and outer seals, bearings, and new shoes. Is all that new stuff really necessary?

[Mynameistommy510]

Originally Posted by llancer04

Anyone else having trouble viewing the pics. Im about to do this repair on my truck. Was only going to get the inner and outer seals, bearings, and new shoes. Is all that new stuff really necessary?

All the other stuff is necessary. Everything has to be pressed off (retainers, abs speed rings, etc.) to get to your bearing. The old stuff is not as strong and will not seat snug back onto the axle when the press work is done.

Figure out how to view the pictures and read through this thread thoroughly. It will answer most, if not all of your questions.

[Xinirgi]

I reused everything when I did my upgrade to chomo axles, I also used 10T of pressure to assemble it, so I'd say it's plenty snug. If you're taking yours to a shop, or attempting it yourself and don't have a lot of experience, then have the extra's on hand at least.

[K-Tanz]

Just did this job after discovering my seals and bearings were bad after pulling the axles for a locker install. Really great writeup! I chose to reuse parts where possible and really don't foresee any problems. I cut the outer retaining collars with a dremel and then applied some light (heavy) heat to the ABS ring and it slid right off. So the inner retaining collars and both ABS rings were re-used.With the help of the one and only Zuk , who was installing my locker, and his shop press and home-fab bearing puller it was all pretty smooth.

I was surprised to find that someone (previous owners) had done a really shoddy job at replacing the bearings previously. I found marks where a hammer and screwdriver was used to get the collars back in place and one of the C clips was literally halfway unseated. I am imagining it was just shoddy work (probably by the same people who botched a water pump and timing belt install on the vehicle) that led to the bearing and seal failure.

There is a surprising amount of play in the new bearings but Zuk assured me that is expected and this is corroborated by what others have said so don't be freaked out when there is some back and forth play when everything is assembled.

Thanks for the writeup!