[kman55]

Great thread! I hope this doesn't happen to me, but if it does this thread will greatly help out!

[tbst]

I should just be able to bring the bearings to the shop and the should just be able to do it right? As in they don't need any specs or anything, right?

And $40 a side seem reasonable?

[BigFishAllDay]

Originally Posted by BamaDrewski

I replaced my rear axle seals today .....and I could not seem to find the “breather tube” on the rear differential! Any one have a photo of this? (I have a 2000 4WD limited)

Sorry for the late reply on this, but I've attached two images at the bottom of the post that show the location of the rear differential breather. The top picture is my '01, and the bottom is my '97. Both have extended breathers, hence the tubes coming off the axle/diff housings. If yours has not been extended you will see a small cylinder about 1/2" wide and about 1" tall extending out from that spot...that is your stock breather.

Originally Posted by Drcoffee

I am new to 4runners and hopefully I will be buying one soon. I need to ask, is the gear oil really pushing thru the bearing or just leaking between the axle housing and brake backing plate? It is hard to tell from the pictures. Also, if you clear the diff breather, does that stop the oil from leaking out of the seals?

Yes, it is. The O-Ring that you see in the picture below is what creates the seal between the axle housing and the backing plate. If it were leaking between those two parts it would down the backing plate and would never see the inside of the drum or the brake shoes. In order to reach the shoes and the inside of the drum, it must go through the bearing.

Clearing the breather will stop the leak ONLY if a clogged breather is the cause of the leak. It's a cheap thing to replace, so it would be worth a shot to try first and see if the leak goes away.

Originally Posted by kman55

Great thread! I hope this doesn't happen to me, but if it does this thread will greatly help out!

Thanks. I'm glad to know it's helping people w/their 4Runners.

Originally Posted by tbst

I should just be able to bring the bearings to the shop and the should just be able to do it right? As in they don't need any specs or anything, right?

And $40 a side seem reasonable?

They should be able to get away w/out having the specs in writing if, and ONLY IF they take some measurements BEFORE DISASSEMBLY of exactly where the ABS ring/Retainers/Bearing are sitting on the rear axle, so that when they press the new parts back on they can ensure that they are pressed into exactly the same location/orientation.

The seal itself rides on the second (innermost) retainer. They will have a margin of error that is basically equivalent to the width of the retainers sealing surface (about 3/8"). If they are off by too much, the lip of the seal wont sit on the sealing surface and you'll have to do it all over again.

Lip of seal > ----[ < Retainer's sealing surface = GOOD

Lip of seal > ____[ < Retainer's sealing surface = BAD


PICTURES OF REAR DIFF BREATHER LOCATION:

[Drcoffee]

I'm working on my drivers side axle right now and I have a couple of alternative suggestions. When I went to pinch the flex hose to the rear brakes it was stiff from age and I didn't want to risk stressing it. What I've decided to do since I have everything apart is to just replace the wheel cylinder now since it has 158,000 miles on it anyway. Since the brake line has to be disconnected, its a great time to install a new cylinder and a speed bleeder all at the same time. So instead of pinching the hose I unbolted the cylinder from the hub backing and re-attached it to the brake fluid line to stop it from leaking. when I install the axle again, the new cylinder will be bolted in place. Just in case you are thinking that you are too cheap to buying another part, you can buy one from Autozone for $12 or really splurge and get an Aisin from Rockauto.com for $25 ea. You know its just a matter of time before it starts leaking anyway. Note the cylinder is contained with a zip tie to keep the pistons from popping out.


Thank you for this right-up because it is saving me so much money as a DIY project. I just know a shop would never take the time to fix the E-brake lever and lube it all before reassembly. Now I know its going to last a long time.

One more suggestion for lubing the E-brake, I'm using a marine grade grease from Quicksilver "Anti-corrotion grease" intended to lube throttle cables and outdrives that all boat shops have in stock. It is meant for fresh and salt water and trust me when I say its a PITA to get off your hands. This stuff resists salt water and stays put.

[userid1015]

check out this tool on Ebay. You've never seen anything like it. So easy to remove the bearing and ABS sensor ring that a girl can do it! You save the $55 for the sensor ring too because you can re-use it. E-mail is [email protected]

[BigFishAllDay]

Originally Posted by userid1015

check out this tool on Ebay. You've never seen anything like it. So easy to remove the bearing and ABS sensor ring that a girl can do it! You save the $55 for the sensor ring too because you can re-use it. E-mail is [email protected]

How do you know? Are you a girl? If so, you'd better get back in the kitchen, make a decent sandwich, and post a picture of it in this thread so all the guys doing this job can see what they get to look forward to at break time.

[tbst]

Originally Posted by userid1015

check out this tool on Ebay. You've never seen anything like it. So easy to remove the bearing and ABS sensor ring that a girl can do it! You save the $55 for the sensor ring too because you can re-use it. E-mail is [email protected]

Seems like someones trolling.

[Drcoffee]

[BigFishAllDay]

This question is answered in the writeup, on page 1 of this thread:

This is how the seal sits on the axle once you re-insert it into the axle housing. You can see that the sealing surface is not on the axle itself, but on the second Retainer.

[alp]

Originally Posted by BigFishAllDay

4. When re-inserting the rear axles, just be careful you don't ding the new inner seal with the splines on the axle. Once you get the splines past the seal, there is a metal collar inside the axle tube that the axle can rest on to prevent it from resting on the seal itself. This makes putting the axles back in alot easier than I thought it would be.

Hi BigFish,
With reference to the above quote: I am going to replace the rear differential and I have a limited space in my garage. There is no way I can take axeles completely off the dif. housing. Would you think if I pull them out just enough to clear the differential and leave them hanging that will not damage the seals?
Thanks.

[BigFishAllDay]

Originally Posted by alp

Hi BigFish,
With reference to the above quote: I am going to replace the rear differential and I have a limited space in my garage. There is no way I can take axeles completely off the dif. housing. Would you think if I pull them out just enough to clear the differential and leave them hanging that will not damage the seals?
Thanks.

I think you'll be just fine. You can see what I'm talking about in the picture below. Notice how the opening on the seal (and this is a new seal, btw) is larger than the opening in the axle tube that the axle passes through. The bottom two, of the four 1/4 circle shaped sections of metal inside the axle tube, will support the axle without it resting on the seal.

For some extra peace of mind, I would probably fold up a couple of rags and place them inside the axle tube between the seal and the outside edge of the axle tube (nearest you in the picture) to give the axle a little something extra to rest on.

[alp]

Now I got it. Thank you very much!

[Drcoffee]

I replaced the drivers side 2 weeks ago and hoped that the passengers side was spared. When I pulled the ABS sensor out, this is what I see.



Gear oil soaked ABS ring. Looks like both bearings and seals were shot. I bought a Toyota because I heard so many great things about how durable they are. So I buy one that looks like it was fairly well maintained for my daughters to run around in. A week later the brakes start acting up and I find myself immersed in axle seal repairs. Argh!

I hope after:
new radiator
Hoses
PS flush
LBJ
OTRE
new axle seals
rear brakes
new power antenna mast
PCV valve
spark plugs
plug wires

I can get a least a few months of use out of it.

Don't get me wrong, I like this truck and in a way bought it for me (hunting rig) because I always wanted one. I just wish it wasn't so needy for maintenance. Seems like a kit-car at this point

Okay I'm done complaining.

I hate the smell of gear oil.

Okay, now I'm done.

[Millerad1651]

Originally Posted by Drcoffee

I replaced the drivers side 2 weeks ago and hoped that the passengers side was spared. When I pulled the ABS sensor out, this is what I see.



Gear oil soaked ABS ring. Looks like both bearings and seals were shot. I bought a Toyota because I heard so many great things about how durable they are. So I buy one that looks like it was fairly well maintained for my daughters to run around in. A week later the brakes start acting up and I find myself immersed in axle seal repairs. Argh!

I hope after:
new radiator
Hoses
PS flush
LBJ
OTRE
new axle seals
rear brakes
new power antenna mast
PCV valve
spark plugs
plug wires

I can get a least a few months of use out of it.

Don't get me wrong, I like this truck and in a way bought it for me (hunting rig) because I always wanted one. I just wish it wasn't so needy for maintenance. Seems like a kit-car at this point

Okay I'm done complaining.

I hate the smell of gear oil.

Okay, now I'm done.

Think about it this way, that's the only maintenance it needs after being 10-14 yrs old. I've owned 3-5 yr old cars that needed more than that. I would not consider these items as "needy maintenance", I would considered them necessary repairs on any vehicle that old with that many miles. And after completing these repairs, you most likely won't have anything more than oil changes and occasional flushes for the rest of its life.

[Drcoffee]

I could use some advice here. Last night I installed the passenger side axle shaft and put everything back together. It dawned on me this morning that I didn't lube the rubber ring on the axle seal before installing the axle. I haven't driven it yet but it has had gear lube in it overnight. I also lubed the driveshafts and turned the rear wheels while doing it. I'm hoping the slow turn helped pull in some gear oil. Will the lube work its way into the mating surface or is it going to run dry and damage the seal?