10-30-2020, 09:39 AM
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#541
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Senior Member
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Join Date: Feb 2019
Location: Hot Springs, AR
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Real Name: Patrick
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Senior Member
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mendozer
also just a tidbit on the 01-02 axle bearings vs earlier generations...when I did mine today, they literally just went in with a little tap of the hand. you don't even need the press for the bearing, and even if you do press it in, when you put it on the axle for the retainer pressing, the bearing will just slide right out onto the axle shaft. not a huge deal, it's just a little awkward carrying it to the press while the brake wheel jiggles around between the bearing stuck point on the axle and the axle flange.
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You didn't have to press the wheel bearing onto the axle shaft?
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10-30-2020, 01:22 PM
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#542
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Join Date: Dec 2015
Location: Seattle, WA
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No i mean when putting the bearing into the disc plate (hub, whatever it's called) it slides in fairly easily. So easy that when you place this OVER the axel shaft to then stack the retainer on, the bearing just comes right out. So when you're pressing it, it'll quickly drop in then the friction begins when the retainer ring starts to push on the axle shaft. I have no idea if it's the different bearing vs the earlier 3rd gen for a different spec or if somehow my hub was just sized differently but both sides went in easy. I just put the bearing over the hole, dropped the old bearing onto it from like 6 inches and bam it fell right in. super easy. Just saying I actually preferred if it was fit better so when you invert it for the press it wouldn't just fall right back out.
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10-30-2020, 01:49 PM
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#543
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Join Date: Feb 2019
Location: Hot Springs, AR
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Real Name: Patrick
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Senior Member
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That makes more sense lol I was a little worried thinking that it just slipped onto your axle shaft
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2000 SR5 V6 Manual 4WD https://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-g...biography.html
2000 Limited V6 Auto E-Locker Sold 3/2022
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10-30-2020, 01:53 PM
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#544
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Location: Seattle, WA
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yeah that would be bad lol. And definitely do a sharpie test, not as messy as grease and just as effective. Seems 5mm is about midline on the retainer, but 4mm ain't shabby either. I even did 6mm on one just to see and it's still fairly midline. of course it depends how well you tap the oil seal in too. I think I used the 72mm race driver.
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06-26-2021, 05:51 PM
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#545
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Join Date: Sep 2020
Location: SoCal
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Real Name: AJ
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if my rear axle seal is leaking, much more after top off, do i need to change bearing as well?
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06-26-2021, 06:36 PM
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#546
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Location: Western PA
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dial4toRun
if my rear axle seal is leaking, much more after top off, do i need to change bearing as well?
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I didn't. I was able to pry off the side caps of the bearing with a pick, flush out the oil, then use a syringe to refill the bearing with synthetic bearing grease. So far so good but it will probably fail tomorrow now that I said that.
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09-21-2021, 12:58 AM
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#547
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Location: Seattle, WA
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This morning I notice gear oil in my wheel. I was hunting this weekend so I assume the rocky roads jiggled it loose or something. I just redid it last fall too. I wonder if I can get away with just doing the inner seal and brake shoes
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09-27-2021, 10:38 AM
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#548
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just re-did the seal yesterday and noticed two things...the seal was not riding on the middle of the retainer ring, closer to 1/3 from the edge. it passed the sharpie test during initial installation so real life conditions somehow made it move
Also I usually had used vice grips in the past to get the old seal out and people always struggle with seal pullers. I even ordered a new Lisle to help with this, but it was too big and useless. Then I though, why not use my nail puller? I pulled it out with four quick gentle prying motions, no damage needed to the seal.
Nail Puller
Mine is a million years old and a different brand but it looks like that. the sloped part slips perfectly behind the seal and the retaining metal part of the axle housing and it's SO EASY! Just a tip.
I put cheap oil I had on hand to test it for a few weeks as I didn't want to throw my AMSOIL in there just to have to re-do the pressing later. If it was riding close to the "inner" edge of the retainer, does that mean it was pushed too far on the press, or not far enough?
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09-27-2021, 11:35 AM
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#549
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Join Date: Dec 2013
Location: Yukon
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mendozer
I put cheap oil I had on hand to test it for a few weeks as I didn't want to throw my AMSOIL in there just to have to re-do the pressing later. If it was riding close to the "inner" edge of the retainer, does that mean it was pushed too far on the press, or not far enough?
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If the sharpie test shows the seal to be riding near the inner edge of the retainer it means the retainer was pushed on too far. Needs to be pulled back up a touch. Did you do the DrCoffee flip of the inner retainer to buy you some extra wiggle room?
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09-27-2021, 01:32 PM
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#550
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yes I flipped the retainer. The sharpie was solid, right in the middle. This was done about 1 year ago. It only started leaking after hunting the other weekend. So maybe it shifted from rough roads or something. But I noticed the wear ring on the retainer was not in the middle like the sharpie test showed, it was near the edge. If the retainer is ay 10mm wide, and I wanted it right on the 5mm mark, it was on like 7mm.
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11-08-2021, 12:01 PM
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#551
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Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Front Royal, VA, USA
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wjamyers
My left side seal failed a month after my 4th anniversary. The drum was so locked I couldn't get it off or even drive the car, so I took it to Merv's Auto in Lorton, VA. I still had the left-over, single pair of brake shoes from the last failure, so they used that and did the the single-side job for me for $316, total.
They explained that it looked like I dented the center of the seal hammering it in with a poorly size-matched tool (I was never confident I had done it right).
Lesson learned for me: Use the right tool for the job, or leave it to the pros.
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Aaaaaaand it failed again. Mechanic said the only thing I haven't replaced is the Axle and maybe that's what's causing it to fail only 3 and a half years after having a top-notch pro do it for me?
Any ideas of why this seems to never last more than a few years? I promise I'm not beating on it. I'm about sick of this GD truck which only has a 220K on the clock and I was planning on driving forever but am losing faith in. Convert to disk and be done with it? That doesn't seem to be a straightforward issue. If I could just buy a damn kit and do it I would, but this off-and-on, fixed-and-broken shit is getting me down. Pretty sure the new silver truck has the same damn issue, so I've got that to look forward to.
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Last edited by wjamyers; 11-08-2021 at 12:08 PM.
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11-08-2021, 02:48 PM
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#552
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why the axle shaft itself? maybe if it's slightly out of "true straight" then maybe it's wiggling in the inner oil seal perhaps.
I don't see how that could be an issue, although there are far more experienced people on here who hopefully can chime in
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11-08-2021, 03:40 PM
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#553
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Senior Member
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Join Date: Feb 2019
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Did they replace the wheel bearing when the rear axle seal was fixed? A bad wheel bearing could allow the axle shaft to move enough for the inner axle seal to not seal completely.
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06-06-2022, 11:28 PM
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#554
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Join Date: Jun 2022
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fix just one side?
First time visitor to this site and appreciate all the great info. My driver side has a seal leak, but the passenger side doesn't. Does it make sense to fix only the driver side or does the seal failure of the driver side mean that the passenger side is likely to go soon as well.
I'd appreciate any advice!
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06-07-2022, 12:26 AM
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#555
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Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Vernon, BC, Canada
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Real Name: Doug
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If the diff breather was plugged, that can allow pressure to build and make the seal or seals to leak. Extending the diff breather is a common mod.. My seals failed 8 years ago, and I had my mechanic use Toyota seals --I didn't replace the bearings-- just the seals and diff breather... 8 years and 150k later...
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