[CantComplain]

Originally Posted by 96RedRunner

Page SA-81 of FSM, perform CHECK BEARING BACKLASH AND AXLE SHAFT DEVIATION test.
Will tell condition of bearings, if bearing spins freely by hand most all grease has been washed.
To buy some time you could.
Remove the side shield of bearing you have access to, pack bearing with grease reinstall side shield.
Takes some finesse with side shield but can be done, have done this a few times over the years.

Yes, this is what I was thinking. The leak is nothing like some of the pics posted in the thread; I don't think any gear oil exited the confined drum space. Yes, that means it went through the bearing but hopefully not too much and I can replace it (the grease), or at least try. If worst case scenario is doing the work I'm trying to avoid for the time being, I can live with that.

[TX_MD]

oof...I'm really dreading the potential of having to replace the rear seals. I requested a quote from Toyota (for shits and giggles) and it's ~$1400 for seals, bearings, oil, etc. Pretty evenly split for parts and labor. I guess first thing to do is to remove wheel and rear drum cover to see if it's been breached? I think it has at least on one side. Noticed the drum is a lot darker than the other side....

[96RedRunner]

Originally Posted by CantComplain

If worst case scenario is doing the work I'm trying to avoid for the time being, I can live with that.

You can better the odds making sure new seal is installed square with the axle.
A depth gauge helps to achieve this, installing seal cock-eyed not a good idea.

[MWebster]

Originally Posted by mendozer

I'm getting ready to do this now. What's not widely published about this is that 2000-2002 uses a different bearing. It's so unknown that last time I did this job I only did the seals and now they're leaking again...but I noticed it has the wrong bearing. The last two years uses the bearing that has the metal lip sticking out.

Rear Axle Service Kit, 1979-99 | Marlin Crawler, Inc.

Rear Axle Service Kit, 2000-04 | Marlin Crawler, Inc.

I found that the official toyota part numbers for these are
90363-40020-77 for the flat pre-2000 models
(pic) 1984-2004 Toyota Bearing 90363-40020-77 | Camelback Toyota Parts

90363-40068 for the last two years
(pic) 1998-2006 Toyota Bearing 90363-40068 | Camelback Toyota Parts

I'm not smart enough to know WHY, but the guy at Marlin told me it has to do with how the later models are assembled. Not sure why Toyota changed the last two years this way, but I'm sure there was a reason.

I could really use some help. I'm in the middle of replacing the seals, bearings, etc... I previously paid a shop to do this and it failed. I have a 2001 4Runner and the bearings I just pulled out do not have the lip (maybe this contributed to the quick failure). I've moved, so seeking warranty work from the shop that botched it isn't an option.

I'm installing the 90363-40068 bearings, with the lip. It looks like the lip must go toward the wheel, and the flat side of the bearing towards the ABS Ring. I just want confirm this is correct, before I start pressing stuff into place.

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

[96RedRunner]

Originally Posted by MWebster

I'm installing the 90363-40068 bearings, with the lip. It looks like the lip must go toward the wheel, and the flat side of the bearing towards the ABS Ring. I just want confirm this is correct, before I start pressing stuff into place.

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Looking at this FSM pg. SA-84 I'd say lip goes inward toward ABS ring. FSM can be deceiving.
Bearing inner race being beveled like it is there's usually a reason and a like mating surface.
https://s3.amazonaws.com/rparts-site...472887bb99.jpg

Been 8 years since replacing seals in my 01 didn't pay attention to this detail.

[WayneM]

I'm pretty sure the extended inner race on the 90363-40068 goes outward toward the wheel. That's how I remember from 10-years ago when I first did mine.

Now you have conflicting advice :/
I need to (again) do the same bearing/seals work on my 2001, so I'm interested in an authoritative answer, also.

[MWebster]

Dang! I'll look at how the surfaces mate, and try to make a determination based on that.

[MWebster]

Okay, after looking at the mating surfaces, the answer became obvious. The lip side of the race has an inward bevel. If you were to press the retainer on against the bevel, you'd run the risk of the retainer ring slipping into the bevel and distorting the lip. Therefore, the lip side has to go toward the wheel and the flat side goes toward the ABS ring, as the flat side will mate up well with the retaining ring.

Thanks for your help, gentlemen!

I hope this helps someone else avoid my confusion, in the future.