06-15-2010, 12:44 AM
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#16
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Senior Member
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Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Denver metro area-CO
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Real Name: Uhhh this is my real name
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Senior Member
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hijackers unite
yah I want to see the blue look now myself that would be cool. Pics you interlopers...
Co Flyfisher so now you have done yours how much would you want to do another one? Does that appeal to you at all?
Mine is fine but I know several folks who need theirs fixed or replaced.
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06 4th gen V8 4WD of course...
08 Honda Ridgeline RT
05 Scion xB-the toaster-daily driver
my Yota Fanatic photos are on Facebook- here is link:
http://www.facebook.com/album.php?ai...5&l=5795132731
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06-15-2010, 02:39 AM
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#17
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Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: portland Oregon
Posts: 356
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ooh i wanna try this! i've been wondering what to put in that space but hopefully now i can get this thing to work again! thanks
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[99 T4R sr5 "highlander" 4wd][Deck plate mod][Clear corner/signals][Tundra/Sequoia Skid][Sound&Security upgrade][TRD Tundra/FJ80 LC coil lift][Tint][01-02 tail lights][14" Magnaflow]
Future mods***
[ISR mod][LED interior]
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06-15-2010, 06:15 AM
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#18
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Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Littleton, CO
Posts: 431
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Elton H
ahh bummer 98 is different
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Details???
The Yota salvage yards I talked to claimed all 3rd gen clocks were the same. I'm curious.
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“Engineers don’t idle well.”
'99 Limited 4WD
Upgrades: BFG AT T/A KO 265/75/16, Husky floor liners, WeatherTech window deflectors, Silverstar Ultra headlights, TaskLED Dome lights, Red & White LED maplights, LED tails & 3rd brake light, 35% tinted front windows, TrueFlow air fliter, hardwired V1, Scion T1807 HU w/ Aux input, Masterflow MF1052 in rear side storage
Mods: Deckplate/ISR, independent fog light control, rear diff breather, constant hot 12v outlets, seat-mounted LED Maglite
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06-16-2010, 04:23 PM
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#19
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Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Bemidji Minnesota
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Dude, thank you! It worked for me. I ended up with a slightly different approach, but the same result. I couldn't keep the pins aligned, so the solder would break upon reassembly. I ended up clipping off the small ends of the pins, pushing them back into the plastic housing, then putting a small dab of solder on each pin end. I then filled in the corresponding circuit board "holes" with solder. upon reassembly, the cut pin ends and the new solder "bumps" came into contact, and are held in contact by the two small screws holding the board to the plastic housing.
Works great!
Thanks again.
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06-16-2010, 05:01 PM
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#20
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Elite Member
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Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Pocono Mountains
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Inventive fix. Very nice. Mine's been dead for years but I bet this would work. (Comes on briefly on really cold mornings just to taunt me.) What I can't understand is why it seems it is always the ACC wire connection that goes, not the ground or 12+ or light trigger. This led me to believe the fault was beyond those silly spring/pin connections so I gave up.
Meanwhile, I put my cell-phone holder in front of the clock and just use my HU for the time. If I fix it, where do I put my cell phone?
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'99 4Runner SR5 5spd 3.4L V6 4WD(U.S), original '99 Talls in front, OME 906s in back, Hella fogs, Trekmaster shocks in front, Billy in back, no running boards, FIAMM horns, Alpine sound, Michelin LTX M/S2's, owned since new.
'97 HiLux SW4 5spd 4WD(Japan model bought in Brazil assembled in Argentina, very close to a 3.0 4Runner/Surf)
'71 FordWillys Jeep CJ5 (with straight six Ford Maverick 3.0 liter engine--lives in the mountains north of Sao Paulo Brazil)
My Backyard Frame Swap
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06-16-2010, 05:04 PM
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#21
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Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: OREGON
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CO_FlyFisher
Details???
The Yota salvage yards I talked to claimed all 3rd gen clocks were the same. I'm curious.
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the pins are not in the clock like the one shown they simply slide in and the springs make contact
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98 4runner sr5 3.4L 5spd 4x4 e-locker sold 10/2/11
07 tundra 5.7L 4x4 limited dc was my moms r.i.p 3/19/11
Oregon Toyota Owners Club
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06-16-2010, 05:05 PM
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#22
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Senior Member
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Join Date: Jan 2009
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Ha! I completely understand, Durk. I've been using my HU clock for the past year. While it's OK, it's still not as convenient as the dash clock. Plus, it always bothered me that it was there...but didn't work. Now I can sleep at night. :-)
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06-16-2010, 05:06 PM
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#23
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Join Date: Jan 2009
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Elton H
the pins are not in the clock like the one shown they simply slide in and the springs make contact
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That's how my 99 is. I bet the circuit boards are very similar. You just need to remove the springs and "hard-wire" those 4 connections.
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06-16-2010, 07:00 PM
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#24
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tried to solder the pins to the board got pissed and chucked it across the garage
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98 4runner sr5 3.4L 5spd 4x4 e-locker sold 10/2/11
07 tundra 5.7L 4x4 limited dc was my moms r.i.p 3/19/11
Oregon Toyota Owners Club
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06-16-2010, 07:06 PM
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#25
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Senior Member
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LOL! Yep, it's a total pain to keep them in line. Try my method (trim the pins and just use solder on both contact points), that is if there is anything left of your clock!
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06-16-2010, 07:12 PM
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#26
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na it bounced off the concrete in a shower of plastic atleast id went out with a bang
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98 4runner sr5 3.4L 5spd 4x4 e-locker sold 10/2/11
07 tundra 5.7L 4x4 limited dc was my moms r.i.p 3/19/11
Oregon Toyota Owners Club
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06-17-2010, 10:58 AM
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#27
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Member
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Join Date: May 2009
Location: Denver, CO
Age: 49
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Join Date: May 2009
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Age: 49
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great write up!!
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[FONT="Comic Sans MS"]Black '97 SR5
Mods: OME lift, 285's, 99 hl's & fr rr seats and some other stuff!!!
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06-17-2010, 01:49 PM
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#28
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Elite Member
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Join Date: Nov 2006
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Elton H
the pins are not in the clock like the one shown they simply slide in and the springs make contact
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Elton, I think the OP's were like yours BEFORE his mod. If I understand correctly, he took the pins out, threw away the springs, and then soldered the pins to the board upside down so that they then protrude through the case. It's been a few years since I effed with mine, but that's what I understand.
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'99 4Runner SR5 5spd 3.4L V6 4WD(U.S), original '99 Talls in front, OME 906s in back, Hella fogs, Trekmaster shocks in front, Billy in back, no running boards, FIAMM horns, Alpine sound, Michelin LTX M/S2's, owned since new.
'97 HiLux SW4 5spd 4WD(Japan model bought in Brazil assembled in Argentina, very close to a 3.0 4Runner/Surf)
'71 FordWillys Jeep CJ5 (with straight six Ford Maverick 3.0 liter engine--lives in the mountains north of Sao Paulo Brazil)
My Backyard Frame Swap
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06-20-2010, 12:09 AM
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#29
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Join Date: May 2007
Location: Mesa, AZ
Age: 44
Posts: 188
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I am so confused now....I just went and tore the dash apart to get to my clock and found that there is NO wires going to the back of my clock at all. There is a 4 pin receptical on the back of the clock...but the freakin' wires aren't there to plug into it!
I don't remember ever tucking them away during my stereo install. Are they bundled up with tape along with the other wires going to that center piece of dash trim (the power back window switch, hazard button and a couple others...defrost maybe, I don't remember now)? There is white tape around that bundle of wires, and it doesn't look like they have ever been untaped.
Weird....
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06-20-2010, 09:24 AM
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#30
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Join Date: Jul 2009
Age: 61
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dirt4dinner
I am so confused now....I just went and tore the dash apart to get to my clock and found that there is NO wires going to the back of my clock at all. There is a 4 pin receptical on the back of the clock...but the freakin' wires aren't there to plug into it!
I don't remember ever tucking them away during my stereo install. Are they bundled up with tape along with the other wires going to that center piece of dash trim (the power back window switch, hazard button and a couple others...defrost maybe, I don't remember now)? There is white tape around that bundle of wires, and it doesn't look like they have ever been untaped.
Weird....
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I looked at mine this week and had the same problem, the wire was plugged into the dead spot behind the rear window switch. But when I plugged the clock in it still did not work.
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