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Old 06-20-2010, 09:33 AM #31
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If you plug it in and it still doesn't work...try the above method. If that doesn't work...thy this: I found the problem with my 99 clock!
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Old 06-20-2010, 10:58 PM #32
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This thing is killing me! I have been screwing with it for the past two hours. I have soldiered on the little posts and I have inspected it for way to much time and I just can't figure it out. It will light up when I smash the screen down into the board as hard as I can, and it will stay lite for a few seconds...then it turns off. Then I take a little screw driver and gently pry the screen up off the board and it turns back on....for a few seconds. Then I smash it again, and back and forth we go.

There are VERY few diodes or whatever they are on the board. The majority of them are actually under the screen so I can't get at them to inspect very good or soldier, but I can get my screw driver on them and they don't budge. I convinced it is actually something loose inside the screen and I can't get at that because it's sealed in glass.

What a disappointment...and a frusteration!
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Old 06-21-2010, 12:29 AM #33
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Mine is a 98 and if not the same, it's very similar. I don't have mine out right now and I don't remember exactly what it looks like.

It does have the 4 pins and spring contacts.

Mine was dead while in dash and worked great when I'd take it out to see what was up.

I finally just took it into my bench and soldered all the connections!

Been working great for about 2 months now!
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Old 06-23-2010, 11:59 PM #34
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Anyone actually try to change the led's to blue with that kaboom idea with any success?
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Old 06-29-2010, 04:36 AM #35
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Sorry for late replies. I'm out of town and have been stuck working night shift lately. (Notification e-mails still aren't working for me either)

Quote:
Originally Posted by Qyota View Post
Dude, thank you! It worked for me. I ended up with a slightly different approach, but the same result. I couldn't keep the pins aligned, so the solder would break upon reassembly. I ended up clipping off the small ends of the pins, pushing them back into the plastic housing, then putting a small dab of solder on each pin end. I then filled in the corresponding circuit board "holes" with solder. upon reassembly, the cut pin ends and the new solder "bumps" came into contact, and are held in contact by the two small screws holding the board to the plastic housing.

Works great!

Thanks again.
Ya, it is kind of a pain to get the pins lined up properly. I barely soldered them initially (so I could still move them w/o too much force), lined them up and checked fit, then soldered them the rest of the way. Just be careful not to pull the copper traces off of the circuit board!


Quote:
Originally Posted by Elton H View Post
the pins are not in the clock like the one shown they simply slide in and the springs make contact
Read my post a little more carefully. As has already been mentioned, the pins in mine were also mounted in the back case. They slide out from the outside in with a little bit of pushing. The springs are intended to make contact, which is the weak link in the system.


Dirt4dinner and jdmidwest - I noted the dead clock harness port in my write-up. Past clock threads have mentioned it as well. Don't feel bad; there have been more than a few ppl who've found that theirs was plugged into the wrong spot!


Quote:
Originally Posted by Dirt4dinner View Post
This thing is killing me! I have been screwing with it for the past two hours. I have soldiered on the little posts and I have inspected it for way to much time and I just can't figure it out. It will light up when I smash the screen down into the board as hard as I can, and it will stay lite for a few seconds...then it turns off. Then I take a little screw driver and gently pry the screen up off the board and it turns back on....for a few seconds. Then I smash it again, and back and forth we go.

There are VERY few diodes or whatever they are on the board. The majority of them are actually under the screen so I can't get at them to inspect very good or soldier, but I can get my screw driver on them and they don't budge. I convinced it is actually something loose inside the screen and I can't get at that because it's sealed in glass.

What a disappointment...and a frusteration!
Have you tried re-flowing the solder on all of the connection pins for the clock screen? Just be sure not to get it too hot, just enough to melt the solder. Be especially careful if you re-flow the small smt components, as too much heat will kill those!
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Old 07-03-2010, 06:03 AM #36
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Thanks alot for the write up! I took the clock apart and looked at it but everything looked like it was in good shape. For some reason though when I plugged it back in it all WORKS now! I wonder what it was. I'm glad I got this to work, it's been bugging me for a while!
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Old 07-22-2010, 12:57 AM #37
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Thanks for posting. I had to replace my HVAC lights and the pictures/directions to remove the console helped confirm that there were no screws.
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Old 07-28-2010, 05:51 AM #38
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No problem, glad I could help!

Getting the four pins lined up is the trickiest part of this fix. That's why initially I barely soldered them on so I could still work them into place, then carefully lined them up and added more solder for the permanent joint.

I think the weird burned-looking spot you noticed on the screen may be where they purge/fill the glass envelope with inert gas (or maybe neon) and then seal it off during manufacturing.
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Old 08-04-2010, 07:01 PM #39
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Well, I'll be darned. This looked simple enuf, so I went to take a look and it worked just as you said.........popped the panel off, looked behind it.....and no wiring harness or plug to the clock. Looked all over with a flashlight, even pulled the radio out, nothing. I'm amazed and baffled. No cut off wires, nothing folded back out of the way.......... I dunno.

Lar.
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Old 08-04-2010, 08:29 PM #40
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Quote:
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Well, I'll be darned. This looked simple enuf, so I went to take a look and it worked just as you said.........popped the panel off, looked behind it.....and no wiring harness or plug to the clock. Looked all over with a flashlight, even pulled the radio out, nothing. I'm amazed and baffled. No cut off wires, nothing folded back out of the way.......... I dunno.

Lar.
Your are the umpteenth victim of the dummy plug. Your clock harness is plugged in to a blank hole in the center fascia--I think its lower and to the left of the clock. This does not mean it plugging it in will fix the clock, because this often happens when someone is trying to fix an already broken clock--but it might.
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Old 08-06-2010, 06:17 PM #41
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Quote:
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Your are the umpteenth victim of the dummy plug. Your clock harness is plugged in to a blank hole in the center fascia--I think its lower and to the left of the clock. This does not mean it plugging it in will fix the clock, because this often happens when someone is trying to fix an already broken clock--but it might.
Well, guess I'll be double darned. You're absolutely right. I'd thought that plug went to the rear window switch, but pulled it off and plugged it on back of clock and clock works.....and so does rear window. Many thanks ! ! !

Now, there's the question(s) - why have a dummy plug in the 1st place, and why would someone un-plug and dis-able a working clock in the 2nd ?? I am amazed.

Lar.

P.S. I've given up on the power problem with my engine as stated in the gforce thread. Car's going in shop Monday to try to sort it out. If they can't do anything, I believe I'll sell it. It's exhausting to drive - constantly shifting and screaming the engine while on cruise control.

P.P.S. How long has the email notification been out of order ??

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Old 09-22-2010, 08:28 PM #42
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Solved: 3rd generation Toyota 4Runner digital clock repair DIY (aka tooth surgery)

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Originally Posted by CO_FlyFisher View Post
push the heater vents in at the bottom which allows me to easily grab and pull on the strip of trim directly below the vents ... there are no screws
Thank you for this wonderful tutorial!

Standing on your shoulders, I rewired my digital clock circuit board and wrote up a DIY with details (especially where you didn't get a chance to snap pictures) so everyone benefits. Please let me know what you think of it:
- Solved: 3rd generation Toyota 4Runner digital clock repair DIY


Bear in mind the center-cluster-removal procedure is DIFFERENT for the basic '97 4Runner! You don't touch the heater vents and you have to remove the AC panel cover plate and two #2 Phillips head screws holding the center cluster onto the dashboard.

Other than the center-cluster removal being totally different, the rest of your DIY was spot on.

See the added details and let me know what you think of it since I'm a newbie here.

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Old 09-29-2010, 06:34 PM #43
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Hey mom - no problem! Glad I could help!
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Old 12-13-2010, 11:07 PM #44
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I can't get the solder to stick to the pins. Any tips?
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Old 12-14-2010, 12:21 AM #45
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Quote:
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I can't get the solder to stick to the pins. Any tips?
Flux
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