01-21-2016, 12:05 PM
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#91
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Junior Member
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Join Date: Jan 2016
Location: Boulder, CO
Posts: 4
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Junior Member
Join Date: Jan 2016
Location: Boulder, CO
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Thank you so much for posting this thread. I just purchased my 99 T4R and after three failed attempts on my part. I brought it to my friend who solders professionally and he was able to fix it for me.
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02-06-2016, 10:36 PM
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#92
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Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Front Royal, VA, USA
Posts: 170
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Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Front Royal, VA, USA
Posts: 170
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TheOtherGuy
I just did this whole DIY including soldering the pins and when I plugged my clock back in I found that it still did not work. I jiggled the connector a bit and found that it would just jiggling it would bring it back to life temporarily. From this I concluded that my connections had become oxidized/dirty and they just needed to be cleaned. So I srayed some deoxidizer and the plug and the pins and jiggled it some more and unplugged and replugged it a few times to "scrub" the pins clean. This worked.
To make a long story short Before disassibling your clock, just spray deoxidizer on the plug and pins and "scrub" them clean by unplugging and replugging the connection a few times this should fix it in many cases. The springs were not the problem on my clock.
The deoxidzer can be found here: Hosa Caig DeoxIT D5, Deoxidizer Aerosol Spray, 5 oz D5S6
I hope this can save you some time and effort.
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this sort of fixed it for me. I still had to push the clip hard into the clock while twisting it clockwise after the fact... and then push on the right side of the clock face after I put the dash back together... but it has stayed on for a few hours since.
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1999 Toyota 4Runner SR5 Highlander 5MT
2000 Toyota 4Runner Limited Automatic, ARB, Schrockworks, OME 2.5-3", 255/85R16 (33")
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04-09-2016, 12:27 PM
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#93
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Junior Member
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Join Date: Oct 2015
Location: Burbank, CA
Posts: 27
Real Name: Daniel
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Junior Member
Join Date: Oct 2015
Location: Burbank, CA
Posts: 27
Real Name: Daniel
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Thank you for this descriptive how-to. My recently purchased 1999 T4R had a clock that would work if I pressed the buttons rapidly, but it finally quit for good. I removed my clock and just sent it to a service that rebuilds our clocks. I would not have a clue how to remove it if it wasn't for this post. Keeping my fingers crossed that it arrives all fixed.
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04-22-2016, 02:37 PM
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#94
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Join Date: Feb 2016
Location: Golden, CO
Posts: 93
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Member
Join Date: Feb 2016
Location: Golden, CO
Posts: 93
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Hey everyone,
EDIT: nevermind on this issue I typed earlier.
But, I think I fried my clock. Before I tried this fix, it showed the occasional sign of life, and after attempting this fix, there is nothing.
I think when I soldered the pins, I accidentally had some of the solder from the different pins touching each other, and I think I must have shorted out the clock or something.
Guess I need to shop around for a new "used" clock.
Last edited by Kowitz; 04-22-2016 at 03:49 PM.
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05-16-2016, 01:10 PM
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#95
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Junior Member
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Join Date: May 2016
Posts: 4
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Junior Member
Join Date: May 2016
Posts: 4
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I've leaned on this whole site heavily to purchase my "new" 98 that's in rather fantastic condition for its age (very clean, and only 162K miles at 18 years with minimal rust underneath). The dealer I bought it from had done a bunch of work to it (hoses, belts, water pump, exhaust, tires, battery, wiring, et al) but I've been giving it some TLC, too. The clock thing was one of those things you can just accept from an 18 y/o but I wanted to mend it anyway. Like the OP's wife said, I didn't realize how much I used my in dash clock until I had this vehicle without it functioning!
AAAANYWAY, I signed up for an account just to say THANKS and this worked like a charm!!! I actually went to the local salvage and bought a clock off a scrapped 99 (I think). Tried it, and it also didn't work. So I took my original clock apart, tossed the springs aside, did a crappy soldering job, hooked it into the wiring harness, and bam! It lit right up! I put the whole dash back together and was setting the clock when it went out again.
Suspecting my suspect soldering I went back to the work bench, took apart the salvage clock, did a really NICE soldering job on it's circuit board, put that circuit in my original housing and it's worked perfectly going on a week now!! I put all the non working guts back together in the housing with the scrap yard markings and returned it for my money back! Haha! Score one for the nerds with basic circuit and soldering skills!
A couple of tips: I recommend scratching up the area on the pins where you'll solder them with the corner of a little flat head screwdriver or something, the original finish doesn't want to take the solder really without some abrasion. Also another tip to line them up nicely: get one soldered in just like you want and then use a tiny piece of tape across the top of that and all the rest to hold them in line just like you want. These little things worked like a charm to address the unique little challenges of this particular project.
All in all it was a pretty quick and simple fix!
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05-27-2016, 02:44 PM
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#96
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Junior Member
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Join Date: Oct 2015
Location: Burbank, CA
Posts: 27
Real Name: Daniel
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Junior Member
Join Date: Oct 2015
Location: Burbank, CA
Posts: 27
Real Name: Daniel
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First, thank you for this informative "How To". On my recently purchased '99 SR5 4WD I had the bad clock and this post gave me courage to remove my clock. With a bit of careful fiddling I was able to easily remove my clock. FWIW, I used a service I found on EBay that does a clock repair for only $16.00 which includes return shipping costs. My clock now works and I feel like I have a complete 4Runner again
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06-01-2016, 08:26 AM
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#97
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Senior Member
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Join Date: Mar 2016
Location: West Bend, WI
Posts: 2,339
Real Name: Mike
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Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2016
Location: West Bend, WI
Posts: 2,339
Real Name: Mike
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wjamyers
this sort of fixed it for me. I still had to push the clip hard into the clock while twisting it clockwise after the fact... and then push on the right side of the clock face after I put the dash back together... but it has stayed on for a few hours since.
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I first tried cleaning the connectors but it still would only light up when I squeezed the back of it. I then took it apart and tried soldering the pins directly to the board, it still would not stay on.
I finally re-soldered all of the pins on the back of the board and now it always stays on. I closely inspected it before I did this and didn't see any cracks or void but apparently there was a problem somewhere.
Hope this helps
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07-04-2016, 07:39 PM
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#98
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Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Littleton, CO
Posts: 431
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Member
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Littleton, CO
Posts: 431
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Glad that this thread continues to be of service to the community. I still pop in every now and then, so hit me up with any questions you might have.
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“Engineers don’t idle well.”
'99 Limited 4WD
Upgrades: BFG AT T/A KO 265/75/16, Husky floor liners, WeatherTech window deflectors, Silverstar Ultra headlights, TaskLED Dome lights, Red & White LED maplights, LED tails & 3rd brake light, 35% tinted front windows, TrueFlow air fliter, hardwired V1, Scion T1807 HU w/ Aux input, Masterflow MF1052 in rear side storage
Mods: Deckplate/ISR, independent fog light control, rear diff breather, constant hot 12v outlets, seat-mounted LED Maglite
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07-06-2016, 08:14 PM
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#99
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Join Date: Jun 2016
Location: LA
Posts: 110
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Member
Join Date: Jun 2016
Location: LA
Posts: 110
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This must be the most reliable platform in the world for there to be a SEVEN PAGE thread on the clock :P
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08-07-2016, 09:45 PM
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#100
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Junior Member
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Join Date: Aug 2014
Location: Honolulu, HI
Posts: 15
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Join Date: Aug 2014
Location: Honolulu, HI
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TheDurk
Your are the umpteenth victim of the dummy plug. Your clock harness is plugged in to a blank hole in the center fascia--I think its lower and to the left of the clock. This does not mean it plugging it in will fix the clock, because this often happens when someone is trying to fix an already broken clock--but it might.
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So my clock died yesterday while installing a new radio. Read this post and prayed; sure enough, I was the next victim! Plugged the plug into the correct location and the clock is back baby!!!
Sent from my XT1575 using Tapatalk
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04-09-2017, 04:04 PM
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#101
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Junior Member
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Join Date: Feb 2017
Location: Helena, MT
Posts: 24
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Join Date: Feb 2017
Location: Helena, MT
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I will have to try this out this afternoon... did it unsuccessfully on my Forester, hopefully i can get it correctly on the 4Runner.
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05-25-2017, 01:02 AM
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#102
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Junior Member
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Join Date: May 2017
Location: Alberta
Posts: 3
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Join Date: May 2017
Location: Alberta
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Guess I will have to try this next time I'm home and can spare a few minutes.
Excellent information in this site along with some very helpful folks.
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05-18-2018, 11:23 PM
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#103
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Member
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Join Date: Feb 2015
Location: MD
Posts: 102
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Join Date: Feb 2015
Location: MD
Posts: 102
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Like others have said...I took mine apart that wasn't working and couldn't find any cracks or degradation that I could see in the springs or anything. Soldered the pins on anyway and removed the springs and plugged it in with no fix. Then just for hell of it I took it back apart and melted every solder point on the board while adding just a touch of fresh solder and it's back 100%. Thanks for your write up! Just a bit of extra info I found
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12-27-2018, 08:21 AM
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#104
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Member
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Join Date: May 2015
Location: Massachusetts
Posts: 648
Real Name: Keith
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Member
Join Date: May 2015
Location: Massachusetts
Posts: 648
Real Name: Keith
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I found the best way to solder it after destroying one clock in haste while trying to do many other things while having the dash apart. I have a parts hoard so no biggie.
First of all, be relaxed and don't rush it. Pull out the pins and "tin" the ends that go in the board with a thin coating of solder. Get needle nose pliers and rubber band, or forceps roach clip would work. Hold the pin in exact position vertical, height, and plug slot alignment. You can shim the pliers or assembly to make it perfect for solder position. This makes it so you don't have to touch the pin at all while soldering, the pin cannot move while soldering. Heat the pin and float a nice small solder joint that goes around entire pin. Each pin can be lined up perfectly to the other. Mine worked perfect. Btw, putting back together, I put the clock plug in the empty ECT connection by mistake (I have a 5 speed), it fits in. I guess you could get confused on a perfect clock repair and have it not work by plugging it into the wrong connector.
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12-27-2018, 11:22 AM
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#105
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Member
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Join Date: Sep 2016
Location: San Diego, CA
Posts: 528
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Member
Join Date: Sep 2016
Location: San Diego, CA
Posts: 528
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I found just reflowing the solder joints on my 98 T4R clock fixed my problem. I don't believe the 98 has springs in the clock mechanism and a poor solder job on the clocks seem to be a rampant problem.
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