12-02-2019, 09:47 PM
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#391
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Join Date: Feb 2019
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Real Name: Red
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mesooohoppy
Which cooler do you have? If you have 3/8" barbs and its leaking when the 3/8" line is on, they're either not 3/8" barbs or the unit is defective.
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B&M 70264.
I think it more likely that the hose clamp was creased or there was damage or a defect in the end of the hose. Either way, it's dry now.
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01-21-2020, 03:54 PM
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#392
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i updated my build thread with some 70268 tips and tricks, but id like to add to this thread specifically as well. just copying and pasting from my build thread:
Quote:
-i can get goodyear 250 psi hose at cost so that is what i went with. i bought 5 feet of 3/8" ID hose, but you need 6' to do the feed and the return line. i ended up using the good year stuff for the feed line, and what came in the kit as the return line. the good year hose is MUCH nicer than whatever is in the kit. i will keep an eye on the return line, but as soon as it gives me any issue, its coming out and being replaced with the better good year stuff.
-the soft hoses that go to the hardline on top of the front subframe are an absolute PITA to get off. heat cycling through out the years make this stuff damn near impossible to get off; you arent going to pull it off. it being in such a cramped place doesnt help either when you are trying to cut the hose off. i ended up finding a razor blade with a hook on it and that eventually cut off the soft line. im not sure what this type of razor blade is used for, but if you google 'razor blade with hook', you will see what i am talking about.
-the zipties that come in the kit are super aggressive. you only want to be running this through your radiator one time. we were originally going to feed it through the front to use as a 'guide' so i could feed it back through in the same way the guide linked above does. the problem is once you feed it through the front, we noticed it was chewing up the rad fins pretty good. so we just installed the zip ties this way.
-i recommend you mount the cooler FIRST and get your lines all setup. it was abundantly clear that once i had everything in front of me and the grill off, the cooler needed to go in first and then route the lines. we chose this way of install because it allowed us to ensure the cooler would fit with the lines on, and we got all of the hose routing done once the cooler was installed. this basically made it so once it was time to unplug the hard lines and pop the new ones in, the hardlines would only be exposed for a minute or two, minimizing the potential ATF spillage and keeping the mess down to a minimum.
-the good year hose and the hose in the kit i used would not go on for the hardlines. it would get right past the nipple and stop. i had to use a heat gun to persuade it to go on all the way. if you use this hose, you will need a heat gun to get the hose real hot and expand. once its hot, wrap it in a rag and get it pushed onto the hardline ASAP. the hose cools down fairly quickly and even when its warm, its not hot enough to get it on the hard line all the way.
-i didnt replace my radiator because it looked fine although i have no idea how old it is. at 240k, i want zero chance of pink milkshake, so i just capped the radiator trans cooler lines all together. im surprised people install these and still loop through the radiator; which IMO is the main reason to do this swap and eliminate the possibility of pink milkshake all together.
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07-06-2020, 10:17 PM
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#393
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Join Date: Jul 2020
Location: Reno, NV
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Thank you OP for this awesome write-up! Almost 10 years later, and your post is still helping people! I'm about to tackle this project and wanted to ask a question that seems really easy, but want to make sure I'm not missing anything.
I am replacing the radiator as well, so I have it out right now. Is there any reason that the zip ties have to go through both the A/C condenser and the radiator fins? I'd rather just install it into the A/C condenser right now before I put the new radiator in.
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07-07-2020, 04:04 AM
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#394
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Join Date: Aug 2013
Location: Stouchsburg PA
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MagusWyatt
Thank you OP for this awesome write-up! Almost 10 years later, and your post is still helping people! I'm about to tackle this project and wanted to ask a question that seems really easy, but want to make sure I'm not missing anything.
I am replacing the radiator as well, so I have it out right now. Is there any reason that the zip ties have to go through both the A/C condenser and the radiator fins? I'd rather just install it into the A/C condenser right now before I put the new radiator in.
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That’s what I did.
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07-07-2020, 08:32 PM
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#395
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 19963.4lsr5
That’s what I did.
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Thanks for the response! Tackling this tonight.
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07-07-2020, 09:13 PM
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#396
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MagusWyatt
Thanks for the response! Tackling this tonight.
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My advice is not centering it infront of the cooling fan. Shift it to the passenger side where there is more air being pulled by the fan blades when your not moving.
I used the big TrueCool cooler.
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07-08-2020, 11:25 AM
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#397
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Location: Tucson
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 19963.4lsr5
My advice is not centering it infront of the cooling fan. Shift it to the passenger side where there is more air being pulled by the fan blades when your not moving.
I used the big TrueCool cooler.
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I agree it is all about air flow. Crusing down the fwy at 75 mph I barely see 120 to 130 temps even when it is 105 degrees outside. Climbing I might see 155 to 165 temps but never beyond 170. Good air flow help more than anything helps with a trans cooler temps.
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05-17-2021, 06:12 PM
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#398
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My cooler recently leaked due to a poor seal with one of the hoses and I ended up removing it to clean up the condenser fins, thereby breaking the B&M zip ties.
Amazon reviews on replacement cooler zip ties don't inspire confidence - has anyone tried a universal mounting kit like this one? Hayden Automotive 253 Metal Mounting Bracket Kit
It seems like there're enough pieces included to get creative enough to be able to mount the cooler.
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03-01-2024, 11:43 AM
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#399
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10 years ago and now 305k I still have the same rig I followed this write up. One of the cooler lines started to fail and replaced it. Hoping for another 10+ years with this rig.
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03-01-2024, 11:55 AM
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#400
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Quote:
Originally Posted by varol1
My cooler recently leaked due to a poor seal with one of the hoses and I ended up removing it to clean up the condenser fins, thereby breaking the B&M zip ties.
Amazon reviews on replacement cooler zip ties don't inspire confidence - has anyone tried a universal mounting kit like this one? Hayden Automotive 253 Metal Mounting Bracket Kit
It seems like there're enough pieces included to get creative enough to be able to mount the cooler.
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I know this post is a few years old but I now sell bracket kits specifically for 3rd gen 4runners and Hayden and Derale coolers.
1996-2002 4runner Transmission Cooler Bracket Kit
– Iconic Fabrication
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03-27-2024, 03:19 PM
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#401
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Join Date: Jun 2011
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Just wanted to say that bypassing the radiator and using only a B&M transmission cooler saved me from a pink milkshake failure. I replaced my OEM radiator last night, and had the inlet/outlet ports for the radiator transmission cooler hooked together with some hose. I unhooked one end of the hose looping the ports together and to my surprise, engine coolant began draining out. So apparently I would have suffered a catastrophic failure had I not bypassed the radiator transmission cooler.
EDIT: Here's a blurry picture of coolant draining out of the hose that tied the inlet/outlet ports together on the radiator transmission cooler.
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2000 Yamaha XR1800 Jet Boat - MR1 4-Stroke Engine Swap
Last edited by Robb235; 03-27-2024 at 03:27 PM.
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03-27-2024, 04:54 PM
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#402
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How did the cooler fitting get unscrewed from the radiator? That's what sandwiches and holds together and seals the trans cooler from the coolant.
Pop that lower tank off the old radiator and post a picture of what went wrong...
-Charlie
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03-27-2024, 08:27 PM
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#403
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Quote:
Originally Posted by phattyduck
How did the cooler fitting get unscrewed from the radiator? That's what sandwiches and holds together and seals the trans cooler from the coolant.
Pop that lower tank off the old radiator and post a picture of what went wrong...
-Charlie
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It was press fit on with an o-ring. I was trying to pry the hose off the fitting and the fitting came out instead. You saying that if that fitting comes out, the coolant would mix with any ATF that’s present?
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1999 Toyota 4Runner Limited 4x4 - Turbocharged Garrett 57-trim T3/T4 - URD AFR Sensor Calibrator - DW255 fuel pump - 7MGE Supra 315cc “lime green” fuel injectors - 231mm Tundra Brakes - B&M 70264 Transmission Cooler - Monitoring ATF Temps and AFRs With My iPhone - DIY Projector Headlight Retrofit - Cooper Discoverer AT3 - OME 906 Coils & Rancho 9000XL Shocks (Rear) - Airlift 1000 - RadioShack $5 Rear O2 Simulator
2000 Yamaha XR1800 Jet Boat - MR1 4-Stroke Engine Swap
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03-28-2024, 02:03 PM
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#404
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Robb235
It was press fit on with an o-ring. I was trying to pry the hose off the fitting and the fitting came out instead. You saying that if that fitting comes out, the coolant would mix with any ATF that’s present?
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The fittings are NOT press-fit in there, they are screwed in. Here's an undamaged (and working at the time of disassembly) bottom tank with cooler:
If the fitting came out by pulling, something major was wrong in there... You are lucky you didn't lose your coolant to the ground, even with the hoses in place.
-Charlie
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'99 4Runner SR5 Auto - 4WD swapped
'89 Camry Alltrac LE 3S-GTE 5spd
'17 Chevy Volt Premier
'16 Honda Odyssey Elite
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03-28-2024, 09:31 PM
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#405
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Quote:
Originally Posted by phattyduck
The fittings are NOT press-fit in there, they are screwed in. Here's an undamaged (and working at the time of disassembly) bottom tank with cooler:
If the fitting came out by pulling, something major was wrong in there... You are lucky you didn't lose your coolant to the ground, even with the hoses in place.
-Charlie
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Interesting. I haven’t had a chance to dissect the old radiator since I replaced it. The fittings for both the inlet and outlet popped right off while trying to pry the hose off. I noticed an o-ring on the fittings and thought maybe they were press fit on, but really haven’t had a chance to investigate further.
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1999 Toyota 4Runner Limited 4x4 - Turbocharged Garrett 57-trim T3/T4 - URD AFR Sensor Calibrator - DW255 fuel pump - 7MGE Supra 315cc “lime green” fuel injectors - 231mm Tundra Brakes - B&M 70264 Transmission Cooler - Monitoring ATF Temps and AFRs With My iPhone - DIY Projector Headlight Retrofit - Cooper Discoverer AT3 - OME 906 Coils & Rancho 9000XL Shocks (Rear) - Airlift 1000 - RadioShack $5 Rear O2 Simulator
2000 Yamaha XR1800 Jet Boat - MR1 4-Stroke Engine Swap
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