What's the likelihood you could have JB-welded the key cylinder back into place instead of the rubber nipple ??

Possible but it would have been a huge hassle. Lots of obstructions.

I have the same issue, Key barrel fell off because of broken bracket.

Just to confirm, its part # 76811A ?

And my current Garnish is chrome, I'm looking to get the Dark Grey/Blackish color. Anyone exact part number?

Any help greatly appreciated. Thank you

Attached Images

 

Sorry for tha late reply. This just happened to my '99 4Runner. The inside mount for the key tumbler is part of the license plate holder, which on my truck has the dark grey plastic that matches the body moulding. Unless you want to do a half-a** job of repair you need to buy the license frame which was hugely expensive. The good news is that the frame is brand new as the old one had peeling paint. Bite the bullet and do it right. Before I bought my '99 I looked at dozens of 4Runners that all suffered from shade tree mechanic fixes. Just sad how many people don't fix things correctly. Glue and electrical tape was the choice in many trucks I looked at.

I've got to do the same thing to mine. Did the whole license plate garnish work - part #76811A? Thought I would ask before I ordered one.
Thank you.

I just did this last week, I replaced the entire garnish with one I picked up from a local Junk yard. Worked perfectly!

Do any of you guys know where the thin rod from rear hatch lock cylinder attaches to? I took it out because it fell through and needed to JB Weld it back to plate frame, but I cannot figure out where the little green plastic piece snaps into. I know it goes on end of rod, then im lost from there. Is it the brass tab or white plastic piece shown in pic below? Its hard to see behind the black plate

Any feedback would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!

Attached Images

   

@octanejunkie

check this thread out...

realistically, the user should remove the bezel from the hatch to repair this issue.

there are 3 bolts & 4 plastic clips holding this thing on.

2 bolts holding it on are on the handle itself that opens the rear door
1 is part of the rear license plate bezel surround/garnish

the rest are plastic clips, which i h8

so i replaced mine with more bolts. i used m6 and m8's that i had laying around from random salvage yard runs.


>>> comparing the clips vs the bolts




>>> bolt in place of clip




>>> used pliers to pinch the clip so you can push to remove the license plate bezel





the worst part of this job is the you have to roll down your rear window slightly to reach certain clips & i remove the bolts hold the rear window mirror motor so i could move it around.

when removing paneling from the rear, you remove a big black metal backing plate that holds the brain to control the rear window " up and down", so i was constantly plugging this back in to be able to move the window up and down as i needed, to reach the areas that held the bezel on.

Noted, thanks a million @infamousRNR !

Great walk through. Thanks for that but I just need a little help finding the elusive 3rd bolt that holds the license plate garnish. If I'm looking at the tailgate from inside the cargo area, is it to the left of the 2 tailgate handle bolts? Thanks for any input.

Anyone know the part number of the gray plastic clips? Or can you recommend a good replacement?

The green clip (that attaches to the rod that attaches to the lock cylinder) goes into the white plastic piece with a curved groove, part of the window controller that sits behind a black plastic protective cover (held on by one screw and two small clips). See pics (hopefully they show... my first post here)

Adding: and if anyone knows of a part number for that green clip, or where to get one, please let me know, as mine is broken

Attached Images

   

This thread really helped me get my lock cylinder out. Thanks to all for the info and pics. Female hands made reaching inside with a 10mm wrench for the three garnish bolts easy. Didn't have to lower the rear window. I removed the initial trim panel with the hatch up but after its removal did the remaining work inside the hatch with the door down.
I found releasing the red clip and pulling out the rod up by the cylinder early on really helped. From there I released the grey electrical connector, see pic, to the right of the lock cylinder. I was able to pry away the garnish from the outside and the cylinder came along with it. It was still attached via the yellow connector and used a small flat screwdriver to gently pry it away on both sides.
At this point the garnish will come away with the attached lock cylinder. The two phillips screws were PB blasted and used my JIS screw driver to easily remove the last screws. The two remainng screws are visible in the first pic.

Attached Images

   

I have a similar issue, one day my lock barrel just fell into the tailgate as I tried to unlock it, I got in but as I'm trying to pry off the garnish on the back i’m having a lot of trouble, I unbolted the handle/ license plate but are there 2 more bolts above that that I need to take care of? Some of the diagrams are helpful but also very small and kinda hard to read.

Here's a pic I took when mine was apart. I took my lock into the locksmith as the outside flap was stuck shut from calcification. They informed me this is a problem with most rear hatch locks.

Attached Images