The lights go dim?

Battery, alternator, or bad wiring.

Running a 1300 watt amp with a 10" sony 600 watt.

Our alternators are underpowered as all hell. You can try to fix the problem by grounding the "big 3" ground wires with some 4 guage wire (rather than the stock small wire) to get a bit more out of it. You can also hook up your amp to a capacitor to level out the voltage a bit for you, so you don't damage your amp/sub when you hit bass notes.

These, however, are cheap fixes that do not address the real problem. In fact, they may get a bit more power out of your existing alternator, but they can actually do damage to it by doing so. Our trucks need more amps! Try to find a high output alternator.

Good luck.

ur light should not dim with a sony sounds like u wired your amp wrong

Mine dim too, so no it does not sound like he wired it wrong. My light dim (probably not as bad) and I have a much smaller system than he does. If you dont have this problem then you don't have an external amp that is drawing much of any power.

weird mine dont dim

Ditto, I think, if I remember correctly, (been a loooong time,) the lights dimming comes from capacitance differences, check to make sure your grounded well and your speaker is capable of whatever impedance your amp is putting out I remember that happening when I was trying to bridge an amp that created a 2 ohm impedance and the speaker was a 4 ohm speaker...

pretty sure thats right... again, its been along time.

They lights don't dim because of forcing a lower impedance load onto your amp, they dim because they are dropping from the charge of the alternator (somewhere around 14.4v) down to battery voltage (around 12v).

Consequently you can do this by lowering your load down to 2 ohms from 4 ohms because in doing so you are theoretically drawing twice the amount of current.

As the owner of a good JL audio setup in my other truck I can vouch for the experience.
Number one, yes, the alternator is weak, upgraded windings aren't too expensive at an alternator shop.
Two, I wouldn't waste money on a capacitor, most of the are only 1 farad, will cover you for the initial drop and a faster recovery time. However, if you don't want any dimming at all go with a bat-cap like these kinetic ones. Kinetik High Current Power Cells
You should only need the smallest one, these things are superb! It'll wire in just like a cap but will resist dimming much better.

I'll search fora higher alternator I guess and change the wiring guage at the same time.

KZN: i read up a bit on the kinetic cells..but honestly still don't know what the fux they do. I wired this all myself by basic knowledge which has been going good for about a year and it just started dimming tonight. Only thing out of the norm is the weather has gotten colder so somethings trying harder than it was this summer?

Don't get a cap. They just cover up the problem. Either get the alternator rewound or get a new one if you plan to play it loud constantly.

first off i hope you dont have 8ga wire ran to your amp ? also reason why mine dont dim could be 4ga ground wires

First off, check all your connections. If you say this just started happening then you could have a weak ground.
Also if it's just getting cold and you're having problems, your battery may be getting weak, lost water, cracked, ect.
The power cell or bat-cap is run in line with your engine mounted battery. It is charged like a capacitor but holds way more juice and can sustain a long bass line without drawing down power on the rest of your car i.e. lights dimming. Think of it as having a stand alone power system for your amps that is trickle charged from your main battery/alternator.
But the other guys are right as well. An upgraded alternator is the best first move. This goes along with using the right gauge wire and fuses for your system and power draw. While running 0 gauge wire I once melted an in-line fuse block because of the corrosion that got on the copper wire causing the conductor to operate less efficiently and losing power through heat. Luckily the smoke shot out of the hood whenever the bass hit hard so it was easy to narrow down the problem.

ok so the main reason ur 4runner is dimming is bc u have a 1300w amp which is not that real power it has... those are the cheap amps that have false information on them. These cheaper amps will require more power though they don't even play as loud as some... My friend has a 4runner and installed a 1200w NItro Amp from the flea market and 2 12" sony xplods from walmart and well it dimmed all the time. After talking to me and some of my other friends who have better systems, we helped him get a different amp and subs. After doing so he no longer has the dimming problem.

I have seen quite a few of my buddies setups do exactly what you are talking about. So when I set up my system I bought a class d mono block amp (1800 watt) to push my 12" L5. I have never had my lights dim, and I set up my couisins civic with a similar setup and his lights don't dim either.

I don't know if running a certain type of amp with a sub will eliminate dimming issues, but I know that all the class d momoblock amp setups I have seen do not dim.

That type of amp was designed to run subs

Class D amps, as J-money said, should be used to power subwoofers. The exception is if you have a five channel amp that has a channel dedicated to powering a subwoofer.

Class D amps are more efficient than class A/B amps.