10-04-2010, 04:25 PM
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#1
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Huge Parasitic Battery Drain Problem
I got a major problem and need some help. I have got a major parasitic battery drain problem of around 9.5 amps and have exhausted my knowledge base for answers. I'd run it to a mechanic now but am presently unemployed and don't have the cash. It is on an 2002 4Runner 4X4. Here is is what I have done to ID the problem:
1. New battery (I replaced the battery earlier in the year and got the shop to swap it out for me).
2. Pulled the alternator and had it tested twice at different shops - good. Thought it might have been a diode issue.
3. Pulled ALL the fuses one at a time with amp meter in series to find a short in one of the circuits - Nothing. I checked the two fuse boxes in the engine compartment and the one on the driver side. Is there any others I am missing?
4. Disconnected all the extra equipment.
My next step is to check the ground connections but not sure where are they are all located.
I am also planning to double check the fuses to make sure I didn't make a mistake there.
What am I overlooking and any ideas as where I go next with this?
Thanks
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10-04-2010, 04:35 PM
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#2
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Obviously figuring out the draw would be best, but since you've done all that and still weren't able to find it and can't afford to take it to a mechanic right now, you may consider installing a battery cut-off switch in the meantime. Do you have abig sound system in it or something?
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10-04-2010, 04:44 PM
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#3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by brian2sun
Obviously figuring out the draw would be best, but since you've done all that and still weren't able to find it and can't afford to take it to a mechanic right now, you may consider installing a battery cut-off switch in the meantime. Do you have abig sound system in it or something?
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Sound system is a XM radio I plug into the cassette player on the stock system and a cb that I disconnected already.
Yeah I got bought the cutoff switch this morning...been raining around here all day. Going to save that for tomorrow's addition.
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10-04-2010, 07:24 PM
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#4
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The one thing that lies outside the fuse system is the starter. Perhaps one of the brushes is shorted somehow and half the windings are energized full time. 9.5 amps is enough that I'd think it might warm up the starter case. Try getting your hand in there. Have you tried to isolate whether the drain is through the thick starter positive cable or the smaller 'everything else' cable?
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'99 4Runner SR5 5spd 3.4L V6 4WD(U.S), original '99 Talls in front, OME 906s in back, Hella fogs, Trekmaster shocks in front, Billy in back, no running boards, FIAMM horns, Alpine sound, Michelin LTX M/S2's, owned since new.
'97 HiLux SW4 5spd 4WD(Japan model bought in Brazil assembled in Argentina, very close to a 3.0 4Runner/Surf)
'71 FordWillys Jeep CJ5 (with straight six Ford Maverick 3.0 liter engine--lives in the mountains north of Sao Paulo Brazil)
My Backyard Frame Swap
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10-04-2010, 08:37 PM
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#5
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I don't think this can cause that large of a drain but what did you power the XM from and are you sure it turns off? I once hooked a cruise control to the radio fuse except it was the fuse for the radio clock so the cruise was always hot. Drained the battery overnight.
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10-04-2010, 10:11 PM
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#6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pax
Sound system is a XM radio I plug into the cassette player on the stock system and a cb that I disconnected already.
Yeah I got bought the cutoff switch this morning...been raining around here all day. Going to save that for tomorrow's addition.
Thanks
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If its wired to the battery and you dont have a power toggle switch installed that could be the problem since the power may always be on. id get that switch in asap. I just put one into my 4runners dash for the amp to my subs. Let me know if you want some photos.
Last edited by RDS3030; 10-04-2010 at 10:17 PM.
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10-05-2010, 03:56 PM
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#7
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Thanks Durk. I think you put me on the right track here. It is so easy to look at a problem so hard that the simple things escape and are over looked.
The xm radio would explode if it had 9 amps running through it. It is just a little samsung helix which is about the size of a credit card that plugs into one of the cig plugs (old school name I know).
I follow up when I get it solved.
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10-06-2010, 01:36 PM
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#8
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Ran the heat trick on the starter motor last night....just as cool as everything else.
Start going throught fuse box again looking for voltage and what the amps were if there was power. The ECU B fuse has around 9 volts but about 6.5 amps with ign. switch in the locked position. That just seems really high to me since the fuse is only rated at 7.5. I could not find a reference number for that so wated to see if anyone had any idea what it should be?
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10-06-2010, 10:40 PM
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#9
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Don't have the answer you are looking for, but a recent experience may help you find it!!
Had a Ford come in with the complaint of freezing up A/C and battery going dead over night. Checked the A/C compressor while engine was running and found that the A/C clutch was still engaged with the A/C switch off.....WTH??
Dug around a little more and found that the breaker/relay for the A/C clutch was locked in the closed position and when you pulled the ground from the battery found it was pulling a lot of amps. Even with the ignition switch off.
Replaced the breaker/relay and the A/C works as it should and the battery drain stopped.
You can check to confirm a drain on the battery by pulling the negative cable and putting a test light/voltage meter between the cable and the negative post.
Good Luck to you!!
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Last edited by Sig220; 10-06-2010 at 10:44 PM.
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10-07-2010, 12:39 AM
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#10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pax
Ran the heat trick on the starter motor last night....just as cool as everything else.
Start going throught fuse box again looking for voltage and what the amps were if there was power. The ECU B fuse has around 9 volts but about 6.5 amps with ign. switch in the locked position. That just seems really high to me since the fuse is only rated at 7.5. I could not find a reference number for that so wated to see if anyone had any idea what it should be?
Thanks
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No idea, sorry. ECU-B is the Body ECU, which includes a LOT of key-off loads. Alarm, keyless entry, door locks, etc. Also includes the power to all those relay controls by the fuses left of the steering wheel and a few under the dash. My first thought is faulty relay. Look for a warm one and maybe try pulling a few to see where that power is going.
How much is total draw if you pull that fuse?
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'99 4Runner SR5 5spd 3.4L V6 4WD(U.S), original '99 Talls in front, OME 906s in back, Hella fogs, Trekmaster shocks in front, Billy in back, no running boards, FIAMM horns, Alpine sound, Michelin LTX M/S2's, owned since new.
'97 HiLux SW4 5spd 4WD(Japan model bought in Brazil assembled in Argentina, very close to a 3.0 4Runner/Surf)
'71 FordWillys Jeep CJ5 (with straight six Ford Maverick 3.0 liter engine--lives in the mountains north of Sao Paulo Brazil)
My Backyard Frame Swap
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10-07-2010, 12:28 PM
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#11
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I have a 2004 4Runner with the exact same issue. I am on my third battery. I went from the OEM Panasonic, which lasted about three years to an Optima (junk), which lasted about 9 months, to a Sears Platinum which is about a 1 1/2 years old.
I spent about $200 on the Sears Platinum battery thinking I would get the beast, but something is clearly wrong with my 4Runner. I've noticed the vehicle turning over more slowly over the past few weeks again. And then my car was dead this morning following one day I did not use my vehicle.
In the past I had the dealer check for parasitic draw along with an electrical check and everything checked out okay.
But something is wrong with my 4Runner and I think this is an issue with many 4Runners.
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10-07-2010, 03:38 PM
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#12
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Hey Durk,
When I pull the two ECU fuses the reading doesn't change but the odd thing today is the amps have gone down to 7 amps. Weather conditions have changed, it has not rained around here in 24 which is a first since I noticed the problem. That kind of makes me think about grounds and harnesses. I am going to check out the relays first though...LOL...they are the easiest to get too.
Obadiah, I'll pass on what I come up with. LOL.....I hope that dealer diagnoses was "on the house".
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10-07-2010, 04:08 PM
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#13
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I just went back out to work some more and the drain is down to 4.6 amps. I am thinking it has got to be moisture related.
I had to get the windshield replaced this summer, I wondering if it is not completely dried in?
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10-07-2010, 07:15 PM
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#14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pax
Hey Durk,
That kind of makes me think about grounds and harnesses.
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Grounds cause all kinds of weird sh***, but I don't know how a ground can cause a parasitic drain. Unless a positive is shorting to it. Keep at it, these things are frustrating.
__________________
'99 4Runner SR5 5spd 3.4L V6 4WD(U.S), original '99 Talls in front, OME 906s in back, Hella fogs, Trekmaster shocks in front, Billy in back, no running boards, FIAMM horns, Alpine sound, Michelin LTX M/S2's, owned since new.
'97 HiLux SW4 5spd 4WD(Japan model bought in Brazil assembled in Argentina, very close to a 3.0 4Runner/Surf)
'71 FordWillys Jeep CJ5 (with straight six Ford Maverick 3.0 liter engine--lives in the mountains north of Sao Paulo Brazil)
My Backyard Frame Swap
Last edited by TheDurk; 10-07-2010 at 07:21 PM.
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10-07-2010, 08:25 PM
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#15
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Pax this summer i had altenator issue on my tacoma! I went to auto zone and they said it fine. So i pulled all the fuses to everything that i thought would drain it.
Bought a new battery and the problem didnt get fixed. So i pulled the batt and alt it checked fine. Went advance this time. They noticed that it didnt spin free enough. They said it was stuck open or closed can't remember how its supposed to be. But i went to the local toyota junk yard picked up a new one and it took care of it!
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