To cure this issue, better to take to a shop or do myself? shop wants $600 and I'm a graduate of shade tree mechanics with some time on my hands here shortly! :-)

just had mine done last week. $500. my mechanic showed me the parts and what he had to do to replace. said he had to break a bearing to get it out or something. i would have them do it. sh!t will drive awesome when its done. quite as hell.

what did they say is wrong with it? is it just the bearing? i'm pretty sure for 1K you can redo both front and rear diffs with 4.56's or 4.88's so $600 sounds high to me just to replace a bearing, i think the bearing is like 30-40 bucks in price, that said though depending on which one it is you may need a large press to get it off..... so it really comes down to do you have access to the tools you need and what is exactly wrong with it. as far as i know there are 2 bearings on that assy,

The outer bearing has a push fit not a pressed fit. The inner (large) bearing has a pressed fit, this bearing requires the aid of a arbor or hydraulic press to install or to remove.


sorry i can't be of more help, ask them what they are doing for that and a list of the parts they are replacing

Pretty cut and dry if you ask me. I am a shop, and here is my parts and labor rate.

New V6 master install kit $125
Labor to pull the 3rd and re-install only $225
Labor to tear down 3rd and rebuild $150
Gear oil $15

$515 assuming the gear themselves are still good. My shop would refuse to replace only one bearing. If one is bad, then you usually have more than one on the way out. Lots of metal floating around in the housing and oil, and too much to take the chance. Do it right the first time. FWIW, master install kits usually run between $125-199, so that is difference between $515 and $600.

Mine did this when i bought it, with a lift, it took 2.5 hours to change the rear differential, it is way easier to change the diff than it is too press a bearing in, i bought a used rear diff for $225.

I'm still toying with this idea... My 3rd member has 170k miles..... used 3rd member for $350 (junk yard) with 115k miles on it.... or get bearings replaced at shop for $600? Figuring with that many miles on used one, it may start doing the same thing eventually? The truck seems able to haul the load I pull this time of year but I'm wondering if this is a weak link in the drivetrain since I've heard of others having the same issue? Flea bay - new 3rd member $1100... ideas?

Also, will continuing to use truck will this eventually lead to a failure? or just remain noisier than normal? So far it doesn't seem obnoxious...

Have you been driving with it like that for 3 years now?

Yes, it was very noticeable back then but now it's just a constant whirl that sounds like tire noise... but yes, it's time to do something I think NOW! :-) Leaning towards just letting the shop replace the gears and pay the $600+ :-(

Maybe resurrect this thread because I have some questions. I was told theres a bad pinion bearing in the 1999 I have. It will last a while, but needs changed is what I was told. Separate person said that because it only whines when I let off of the gas to just change the fluids.

I planned on changing all the major fluids anyways, tranny, front and rear diffs, etc. If I change the fluid out, and its a bad pinion bearing, won't I have to pretty much change the fluid again when I replace it?

I have a auto V6 with an open diff (no locker) and I am in the middle of this right now. My noise is constant, related to speed but with no change when I am on the gas, coasting or decelerating. I think my issue is pinion bearing but I will know more tomorrow as I am pulling the diff today. As you describe it, your noise really sounds like it is related to the mating of the pinion gear and the ring gear (either wear or if it has been worked on, backlash not set up correctly). I would first check the fluid level and see if it is low. Changing it is a good idea as it if will not only let you see the effect but will also allow you to see if there is metal in there. It will take ~2.5 quarts and cost you $20 if you use basic Valvoline gear oil. FYI...make sure you can get the fill plug out before you remove the drain plug.

Buckaroo

Going to see someone to get an additional opinion on it on Monday. I would get it all checked out and do it myself but I am going to be moving soon. I will go from there.

Edit: So the guys I took it to said theres a bit of play, like @AddictedOffroad said, throwing in the rebuild kit. That should take care of it for under $600.