I have the same problem has anybody gotten a remote to work that is cycles twice at the end

I got mine to work - Yahoo!!
I followed first with NoliWan's instructions without success; then tried some of the other suggestions.
I thought that it would be good to clear everything by following the entire procedure using the 5 key-cycle option in 4-b below; then I performed the entire procedure again using the 2 key-cycle option in 4-b below. It worked just like it's supposed to!

I hope this helps somebody...Cliff

From 1999 Toyota 4Runner - Free Keyless Remote Fob Entry programming instructions, procedures for all automotive vehicles
1. Start with key out of ignition, drivers door is open all others closed and
drivers door is unlocked.

2. Insert key into the ignition (Do NOT Turn) and Pull key out.

3. Perform these steps within 40 seconds.
A. Using the power lock switch on the drivers door, perform 5 lock/unlock cycles starting with lock. Use an even pace and try to go about one cycle per second. (1Cycle = 1 lock and 1 unlock).
B. Close, then open drivers door.

4. Perform these steps within 40 seconds.
A. Using the power lock switch on the drivers door, perform 5 lock/unlock cycles starting with lock. Use an even pace and try to go about one cycle per second. (1Cycle = 1 lock and 1 unlock).
B. Insert the key in the ignition cylinder.
C. Turn the ignition to ON (Do NOT Start) then back to OFF once to program remote while retaining the orginal remote codes. Twice to erase all orginal codes and add new remote. Three times to check how many remotes are programmed or five times to erase all original codes.
D. Remove the key from the ignition.

5. Within 3 seconds the power door locks should cycle automatically indicating successful entry into programming mode. Return to step 1 if the locks do not cycle at this point.

6. Perform these steps within 40 seconds.
A. Press the lock and unlock buttons on the remote simultaneously for 1 second.
B. Immediately after letting go of the lock and unlock buttons, press the lock button by itself and hold for 2 seconds. Within 3 seconds, the door locks should cycle once indicating successful programming. If the door locks do not cycle, or cycle twice. Repeat steps A and B in step 6 as your remote has not been accepted.
C. Repeat steps A and B in step 6 for each new remote.

7. Close drivers door.

Had the same issue, got a preowned 2001 and only had one remote and it wasn't the original from what the prior owner said. FCC ID of the one I did get was the 1512Y. Went by the dealership and the parts guy ran the VIN for me and after talking we he ran in back and got the one that the computer said and it was the 12BBX. He said there was a note in the system that the part number for the 12BBX replaced another but they weren't listed by the FCC ID so I'm not sure what old part number it replaced.
So, long story short, a lot of two popped up on ebay, a 12BBX and 12BBN. Took a chance and got em, followed the instructions on here and got all of them to work! So the 1512Y, the 12BBX and 12BBN all work on all functions! Mines an 01 Limited and has the stickers for the Toyota security system (I'm assuming from the factory cause the thing is loaded).

Word of advice for anyone attempting the programming procedure, practice it! Read the instructions a couple times and get your 4runner into the programming mode before you get the remotes. I had mine done in 5 minutes. Took a couple times to figure out the lock cycling when I first tried but in the end it pays off. The one dealership wanted $57 to program and the other $110 otherwise!

Good luck!!


QUOTE=BruceB83;729088]I just picked up a 2001 SRD Sport without a key fob. I called Toyota to confirm it did come with the factory keyless entry. The parts man told me the FCC ID on the fob was HYQ12BBX. This seems odd to me because most of you guys all report using the 1512Y or 12BAN fob for the 97-2002's. The 12BBX is used on the 07-08 FJ's and 04+ 4Runners from what I can tell on ebay.

Does anyone else's 97-2002 use this 12BBX fob? They are much cheaper on ebay and I want to confirm this is the right one before buying one.[/QUOTE]

Hi I have a 2002 4Runner Sport that came with one remote. It always worked but the plastic keyring broke off so I bought a used one on ebay to replace it even though it worked. It still worked it just was unable to be attached to the keyring.

So I can get into the programming mode but after I hold down the lock and unlock button at the same time then go to push the lock button for 2 seconds, the locks cycle twice. Now even my other remote that used to work until I erased all of the codes won't work either. I know it is a good remote because it was just working but neither the used remote nor my ebay remote will get accepted by the car. Any idea's? My door locks work perfectly when you cycle them. No lagging or anything.

I wish the website I used would have told me to only turn the key once so that you would retain any original codes!!! eff

EDIT: The FCC ID is exactly the same as my original one. Even the printed numbers on the inside of the circuit board are the same too. Plus the car responds tp both remotes by denying them acceptance so I have to assume they are transmitting.

I never the new one I bought to work so I just took apart both and swapped the guts from my old one into the new one. I was able to reprogram my old one using the directions.

Yes my friend it helped me. I came across your post and saw that you had to go to 5 cycles of the ignition to get into option 5 of the programming mode in order to clear out all of the memory and then start over by going back into option one.

I tried everything and this is what did it for me. I first entered the programming mode by going to option 5 ( cycling the ignition 5 times ) then I started over again and when I enetred the programming mode I only cycled the key once. Once I was in that first mode I did the button clicking on the remote and it worked perfectly. It took them both, one right after the other.

I think the biggest thing here is that people need to be aware that how many times you turn the ignition before you remove it determines what mode you are in. I am not sure the exact differences between these modes except for what was listed but doing option 2 ( turning ignition twice ) did not work for me. Either way, my Runner is happy and so am I! Now I will go drink a bottle of Anchor Steam or maybe a Shiner Bock and walk around with my chest puffed out! LOL

I gave this a go a few months back and had no luck. I was getting into the program mode after locks cycle automatically once (step #5) but when I moved onto step #6 A and B, the locks would cycle twice and the key fob wasn't working.

Tonight I decided that I must be doing something wrong so here's what I did.

I did steps 1 - 4B as shown above. At 4C, I turned key on and off 5 times (as opposed to once). This erased all key fobs for the car. I then went back to step 1, followed directions exactly. This time at 4C, I turned key on and off once. Proceeded through step 7 and it worked.

PUMPED!!!

Ive tried this about 20 times and cant seem to get into the programming mode... Any ideas?

Ok, question for everyone: when I am trying to cycle my locks with the key out, nothing happens. My key has to be to the "on" position in order for the lock switch on the drivers side door to work. I take it this isn't normal? Any ideas on what's wrong?!
Thanks!

Yeh, not normal at all and could be why your remote isn't doing anything. If the key has to be in it and on to lock or unlock your doors, doing it by remote is useless. Is it that way on all your doors or just the driver door?

I also have a 2000 limited. I got it last week and one remote didn't work at all and the other would only lock the doors and nothing else. I replaced batteries in both remotes and tested both of them with the little tester at the auto parts store. I followed the instructions for reprogramming that are listed in this thread and now they are both fully functional. I did, as others have reported, have to go through it several times to get it to work successfully. You basically have to do it enough to memorize it and then do the steps with a sort of rythym before it wants to work correctly. Might not hurt to say "mother may I" or "Simon says" before each step as well, I don't know.

By the way, no idea on specifically what the cause of your issue would be. But something appears to be keeping your locks from getting power when the key is off. As if it somehow got wired to the accessory circuit like the radio, etc.

I would make sure you're turning the key two notches to "ON", not just to the "ACC" position. I made that mistake, maybe you have too.

got it, a fuse was blown, making my locks not work unless there was a key in!

the part that is getting programed, the brain, where is it located and how can u tell if its going bad?

i have the same problem with my locks only working properly when the key is on... anyone kno why is that?

Based on the posts above, i would say a blown fuse.