Hmmm, I'm pretty sure mine says you can engage it below 52 mph, and I have the same year/model.

Bump for sticky.....second time in two days it's been linked.
or
Maybe people should use the search function.

A little clarification if you would. I now own a 98 limited with the standard shifter and the push button on the side of the transfer case shifter. This button puts the truck into 4High if I read everything correctly. I should NOT use this on dry roads? How do I drive my truck for ten miles a month in 4 WD if you can't use this mode on dry pavement? What about on a steep gravel road?
THANKS

JR

Actually, you push the shifter up into 4 Low. The reason I ask is because it seems like when turning in 4 high, it seems like there is some binding in the steering. I am not sure that the 4 high in 98 limited is like AWD. Didn't they make some changes to the 4WD system in 1999? Can anyone explain further? Thanks

JR

JT3HN86R, when you push the button you're in 4hi. You do not have AWD so your 4hi is "locked" all the time. Normal 4x4 for you (it's just actuated by a button). If your's was a '99 Limited, you would have the AWD and the extra t-case lever position.

Lube your 4x4 every month, but driving 10 miles at one time isn't necessary. Find a dirt road or even a dry highway is fine as long as it's straight. 10 mi./month isn't a science, just drive in 4x4 once in a while even if it's only for short spurts.

J-shifter on 2000 Limited. When in left forward position (H2-H4), the button on the side shifts into unlocked 4WD.


J-shifter on 2000 SR5:


Left rear position is same for both Limited and SR5: H4 Locked

Thanks Brian. I thought there was a difference in the 98's from the 99's. I was hoping that you would chime in. You always seem to have the answer. I appreciate it very much.

JR

No problem.

Zcruiser, the '96-98 Limiteds only have a H-N-L t-case selector and just push-button 4x4 (no AWD). When the t-case is in the H position, you toggle 2hi and 4hi (locked only) with the button. Then you put it in the L position for 4Lo. Looks like this..

To clear things up further, I just added pics to the 1st post of this thread. They are pics of what each type of t-case shifter looks like for the given years/models.

What about going the other way- switching out the t-case and front dif in a limited and putting the SR5 parts in? I personally hate the setup I have I want to either do manual hubs or switch it all out.

It's definitely doable, but I can't really say for sure what you would all need as I have never done a t-case swap myself. I don't think the front diff would need to be swapped though. All the AWD stuff is in the t-case. I personally wouldn't bother if I were you though. There wouldn't be anything to gain really. Your t-case is already lever actuated as far as 4hi/4Lo locked goes (as opposed to a push-button that can fail easier). If you don't like the AWD function, I would just not use it and essentially it's the same as a J shifter like the '96-00 SR5s have.

BTW, no 3rd gens came with manual hubs, they all have ADD. They would be a nice swap to do IMO, but it's not really related to whether or not you have multi-mode. In ALL of the 3rd gens, the tires still turn the CVs and the spider/side gears in the diff while in 2wd - regardless of year and model (SR5, Limited, etc..).

well yea if my system worked correctly it would be pointless- but mine doesnt, my awd just screams when you push the button and wont drive. the 4wheel works when it wants to. The only part that fully works is the locker. So this is why im contemplating switching stuff out. I would like to do manual hubs simply because that way i know its engaged instead of driving around waiting for it to engage IF it does lol. Tho depending on what needs to be done it may be cheaper to just switch out the t-case and front dif.

Yeah it sounds like you have some issues. So, if you're gonna replace the t-case anyways, you might as well get a J shifter (SR5) case if you don't like/use the AWD. You could replace the front diff with one from a base model 4x4 Tacoma if you want to completely eliminate the ADD, but it isn't necessary. You can still keep the ADD (meaning the diff is engaged by a vacuum) and run manual hubs which is much cheaper.

But, if you want the 4x4 to be completely manual (lever actuated) so it's in 4x4 as soon as you move the lever whenever the hubs are locked, then you'll have to spend the money and get the Taco diff.

The other option is, get manual hubs, you keep your front diff and leave the ADD hooked up. You'll still get better mpgs (because the tires won't be turning theCVs/diff when they're unlocked in 2wd), but you'll still have to wait for the vacuum to engage 4wd. I hope that makes sense.

Pictures make everything better, great addition! Should help make a lot more sense to readers.

First: great post & thread, and kudos brian2sun for putting this together. You have my thanks!

Ok, I'll pick my line of questioning from here: I'm in an '00 SR5, and I was wondering if you could elaborate on the ADD? I'm not a huge fan of spinning stuff unnecessarily, so converting to manual hubs sounds like a keen idea for me. I'm used to it anyway, w/ my old FJ. Without having pulled the wheels to look, is it a big nuisance to convert to manual lock-outs? Could I source the necessary parts from a similar-era Taco and expect them to work?

Also - the vacuum actuation for 4wd? Am I correct assuming that that doesn't apply to the SR5s, with the J-shifter?

Thanks again for this topic. You got another link from SCRunner when I asked the inevitable n00b question yesterday. ;) so, bump for sticky if it isn't already ...