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Old 01-11-2011, 01:14 AM #1
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Build Thread

I'm going to document my build thread here. It's going to be a slow process, but I hope to include lots of pictures. I am a visual learner and I can hopefully help a few others out. Here are the current specs:

V6 3.4 L
4x4 Electronic Locking Diff
4.56 Gear Ratio
142 K Miles
Limited Sports Edition



Already have purchased and ready to install Daystar 2.5 lift, Toytec 1' Diff Drop, Monroe QuickStruts, and Monroe Sensatrac Rear Shocks.

I bought the Quickstruts so that I wouldn't have to compress the coil springs while replacing the struts and installing the spacer lift. That didn't work out so well since you need the longer bolts when installing the spacers. I tried using the Auto Zone spring compressors but those are garbage. Luckily I have a mechanic that I use pretty often for my F-250 and he let me use his spring compressor which made things simple.
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Build Thread-4runner-stock-jpg  Build Thread-compression-1-jpg  Build Thread-compression-2-jpg  Build Thread-longer-bolts-jpg  Build Thread-quickstrut-jpg 
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2000 Limited Sports Edition, 285-75-16, TOYTEC Adjustable Front Coilovers, OME 891 & Bilstein 5150's rear, TOYTEC 1' Differential Drop, E-Locker, 4X4, 4.56 Gear Ratio, Tundra 231 Brakes, All-Pro Apex Front Bumper, OL Rear Swing-Out, 4X Innovation Sliders, Savage Offroad Skids300K, JVC Radio, Tacoma Whip, CB Radio


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Old 01-11-2011, 01:17 AM #2
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Tried to install the diff drop tonight and couldn't get the S.O.B. bolts off. I'm going to find a hollow steal pipe tomorrow and slide it over my socket wrench and torch the hell out of that bad boy. Ill let you know how that whole thing works out.
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Old 01-11-2011, 02:22 AM #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by josh.bunch View Post
Tried to install the diff drop tonight and couldn't get the S.O.B. bolts off. I'm going to find a hollow steal pipe tomorrow and slide it over my socket wrench and torch the hell out of that bad boy. Ill let you know how that whole thing works out.
I've used a big wrench as a breaker bar on the end of my ratchet when I didn't have anything else handy.. probably not the best idea, but it got the job done.
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Old 01-11-2011, 02:24 AM #4
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Very nice 4runner! It came from the factory with 4.56 gears?
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Old 01-11-2011, 11:32 PM #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PhdNPrerunners View Post
Very nice 4runner! It came from the factory with 4.56 gears?
So says the dealer. This site and a few others confirmed it. http://home.4x4wire.com/erik/diffs/

I knew already this truck was made for the son of an owner of a Toyota dealership in Lawrence Kansas so I guess he ordered top of the line. It apparently was his daily driver for 75K miles before he sold it to the girl I bought it from.


I guess the only way to tell is take it apart and count the teeth but who wants to do that?
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Old 01-11-2011, 11:34 PM #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fenrisx View Post
I've used a big wrench as a breaker bar on the end of my ratchet when I didn't have anything else handy.. probably not the best idea, but it got the job done.
I went and bought a 25' break bar from Freight Harbor today. Worked like a charm. Just had to put my back into it a little. Gotta love cheap tools.
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Old 01-11-2011, 11:35 PM #7
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I'm hoping I can find a shop around here to compress my coils and assemble my struts. I'm definitely not using the death trap AutoZone compressors. If I can't find someone to do it for a reasonable price around here I'll just buy one of the clamshell compressors.

Nice looking rig. One of my favorite color combos.
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Old 01-13-2011, 03:26 PM #8
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Im installing the spacers this weekend and new tires to come shortly. I see many on here have 285-75-16 (33's) and some have 265-75-16 (32's). Most all of you that have the 285-75-16 have a custom front bumper and rubbing is not a problem. The question I have is this... will 285-75-16 fit with a stock bumper. I will upgrade my bumper at some point but dont have the $$ yet. I want sliders first. Will I need to install wheel spacers with these tires? BTW it's a daystar 2.5 lift and they say a maximum 32 in tire.

If wheel spacers will prevent rubbing I want to have them installed at the same time as the tires/alignment.

I realize some post say this is a maybe issue, but I was seeking some real life feedback and I will take with that what it is.

On an unrelated note this was happening to me this morning. minus the blood.
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Old 01-13-2011, 05:27 PM #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by josh.bunch View Post
The question I have is this... will 285-75-16 fit with a stock bumper. I will upgrade my bumper at some point but dont have the $$ yet. I want sliders first. Will I need to install wheel spacers with these tires? BTW it's a daystar 2.5 lift and they say a maximum 32 in tire.

If wheel spacers will prevent rubbing I want to have them installed at the same time as the tires/alignment.
I'm pretty sure you will fit 32.8" size tires with the 2.5" Daystar no problem, but that's not to say it won't be without minor rubbing on the back side of the front wheel well or even on your bumper when wheels are turned.

Just a few minor trimming though, will resolve that issue. If using wheel spacers are necessary, you can always put them on yourself even after the alignment is done.

Here a similar thread on tire fitment on stock wheels.
285/75-16 on stock wheels?


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Originally Posted by josh.bunch View Post
On an unrelated note this was happening to me this morning. minus the blood.
Geez..I hope you're ok.
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Old 01-26-2011, 10:31 PM #10
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I'm a novice when it comes to this sort of thing, but I'm definitely a do-it-yourself kinda of guy. This forum is very helpful with many topics, but there are alot of guys on here who know alot about 4runners and trucks in general, and your wealth of knowledge is superbly helpful.

However, for the regular Joe like myself I am going to try to give an accurate account of my experiences with whatever it is I do with my T4R. That way maybe I won't skip steps that seem common knowledge to you experts out there.

A few updates and pictures on the differential drop.
  1. The entire job took my 1.5-2 hours from the time I jacked the truck up to the time I let it down. Including removing and reinstalling the factory skid plates. I did this job solo. I could see cutting the time in half it you did it with a buddy.
  2. I needed a 25' break bar which I got for 12 bucks from Harbor Freight Tools
  3. The instructions were pretty easy from Toytec, however I did have to trim my factory skid in the 2 back bolts to make it fit. No big deal though.

The trickiest thing was maneuvering a pair of vice grips in the top bolt while breaking and reinstalling the new longer bolts.

One question I have for you experts... Check out the 3rd picture. The little hump that comes down from the frame...should that concern me with that sitting on the differential spacer and not making 100% contact? It's only making contact with about 50% of the spacer. Will that cause me trouble over time? Should I have grinded that down so that it made 100% contact between the frame and the spacer?

I guess instead of a 1 in differential drop it is really more like 1.5 in drop.
Attached Images
Build Thread-diff-drop-1-jpg  Build Thread-diff-drop-2-jpg  Build Thread-diff-drop-3-jpg  Build Thread-diff-drop-4-jpg  Build Thread-diff-drop-5-jpg 
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Old 01-26-2011, 10:37 PM #11
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Quote:
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Im installing the spacers this weekend and new tires to come shortly.

Life happens and the above quote did not yet. However the wife is leaving this weekend so I can do whatever I want, and that will be installing the Day Star lift, struts, front coils, and rear shocks. Not sure how long it will take since I will be flying solo but I'll keep you informed.

Do I know how to party or what?!?!?
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Old 01-30-2011, 11:45 PM #12
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Welp, the lift is completed. Lots of sweat, grease, music, but luckily no blood. There is not alot of help out there for installing one of these yourself. Here is the best one I found... Daystar (Spacer) installation on 4Runner with XREAS - Toyota 120 Platforms Forum

It took me about 6.5 hrs yesterday to do the rear. I was doing this solo and for the first time so it was a learning experience. The problem yesterday was when I disconnected the panhard bar it "shrunk" on me. I had to drill a new hole in the frame side to make it fit. I fought that dang thing for 2.5 hrs before I gave up and drilled a new hole. If I had drilled a hole in the axle side it wouldn't have enough meat there to that's why I did that.

Also, PB Blaster is legit. I was jamming to Old Crow Medicine Show while working and over torqued the lower bolt on the shock, and snapped that booger off a 1/4 in inside the housing. I sprayed PB Blaster in there several times over the span of 1.5 hrs and then I took a normal drill bit, switched it in reverse and backed that bad boy out. I was elated!!

Build Thread-rear-coil-1-jpgBuild Thread-rear-coil-2-jpg

After an hour break for dinner I started on the front. I jot it jacked up, tires off, and loosened the sway bars. DO NOT disconnect these. Just loosen them, bc you can't get them back on once the spacers are in. Loosen and then tighten when the spacer are on.

In fact just throw away the directions away as soon as you get them from DayStar. Use these directions from DUHOCKEY...that's all you need. Wish I had gotten them before I was finished.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Duhockey View Post

to get the coilovers out, you undo the sway bar, loosen just the three nuts not the center one. take out the lower shock bolt and then take off the 3 nuts on top. use a bar, put it between the upper control arm into the engine compartment and have someone pull down on it and you should be able to pop them right out.
Took me about 4.5 hours today. My big screw up this time was those dang bolts that hold the strut mount at the top. That one in the back was a mother to get out. I stripped it the pieces, then tried to use and angle grinder to cut it off, you can imagine how that worked.
Build Thread-messed-up-bolt-jpgBuild Thread-messed-up-bolt-2-jpg

I reached out to the masses but to no avail. I called a welder on Craigslist and he came over, torched the SOB and sent it back to HELL where it came from. From there it was smooth sailing.
Build Thread-front-assembly-1-jpgBuild Thread-front-assembly-2-jpgBuild Thread-front-assembly-3-jpgBuild Thread-front-jacked-up-jpg
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Old 01-31-2011, 12:09 AM #13
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It would really be helpful and give me piece of mind if some of you self proclaimed experts, guys who have done this before, or someone who wants to be a wise guy would chime in. Take a look at the pictures I posted and tell me if everything looks as though it is where it is supposed to be. Thanks in advance.

Build Thread-front-assembly-5-jpgBuild Thread-front-assembly-6-jpg

I tried to take a few pictures of the finished product but it was a bit dark. Hopefully I can get some better ones soon.

Build Thread-after-lift-1-jpgBuild Thread-after-lift-2-jpg

Also here are the before and after measurements...

Before Front:
Build Thread-before-front-jpg

Before Rear:
Build Thread-before-rear-jpg

Now for the weird part. My front passengers side sits 3/4 of and inch higher than the front drivers side. Maybe it will settle. Basically I'm sitting 38' all the way around. The front will settle once the new coil springs are broken in.
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Old 01-31-2011, 12:20 AM #14
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Front Passengers:
Build Thread-front-passenger-jpg

Front Drivers:
Build Thread-front-drivers-jpg

Rear Passengers:
Build Thread-rear-passenger-jpg

Rear Drivers:
Build Thread-rear-drivers-jpg

I took it out driving a bit to see how it handled, I got it up to 80 mph and drove 12-15 miles. I measured when I got back home and the front coils had already settled 3/4 of an inch. I expect another 1/2 inch or so.

And I definitely need an alignment. It was a little scary driving with it in the current condition. Hope an alignment will fix things.
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Old 01-31-2011, 12:23 AM #15
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finally on eh? sounds like u went through alot of trouble. i hope u really enjoy it tho. mine on soon!

the alignment will hopefully fix things up. anytime u mess with the front suspension an aligment is needed
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