Thank you for this comprehensive list

After many years away from owning a 4Runner, I've decided to come back into the fold. I used to own a 1995 SR5 4x4 that I bought with a handful of miles many moons ago, and loved that thing...it saved my neck a few times in the unforgiving Colorado winters. Probably not going back to a 2nd gen, but I have found a nice, pampered Florida-bought and owned 1998 Limited that I am considering. Its not a 4x4, and its an automatic, but its super-clean, rust-free, has had a ton of maintenance done recently. Price isn't too bad, but what might seal the deal for me is it has the rare dealer-installed 1st Gen TRD Supercharger. Looking forward to reading up on all the good stuff here.

Hey guys, never posted before. Bought a t4r 8000 km ago, put together an excel maintenance schedule to keep track of what might explode on the ol' girl.

figured someone might find it useful. feel free to REV and reattach? Something tells me some people here may know a thing or two about 4runners ....

Attached Files

4runner maintenance log.zip (15.3 KB, 146 views)

Hi all - This post is a goldmine and Ceebly’s log is nicely organized.

I expect to soon be the 3rd owner for a 2000 SR5 with ~234k miles that's been outfitted and overlanded by the 2nd owners for (20k trip in South America). They kept pretty good records from their preparation (2015+) and trip (2016-17). I’ve gone through a bunch of threads, but I’m interested in the community's take on what to inspect carefully, what maintenance you would do on day 1 or in the next 30k miles, and what you would defer, for this specific 4runner. Intended purpose is light overlanding and the goal is maximizing vehicle longevity. Plan and questions in bold

Emissions: last smog 2/2020, current owner is getting it smogged pre-sale, he’s working on the driving pattern due to a recent dead battery. Try to be patient.

Rust: CA car (except trip) underside looked good to my untrained eye but still 21 yr old. Rooftop tent rack could use remediation. Temclad on spots observed and/or fluid film?

Fluids & filters: Most seem to need it, Replace Coolant, Oil, Transmission fluid, brake, power steering fluid, transfer case oil, front and rear differential gear oil, oil filter, air filter, cabin air filter. Recommended intervals post. Wait on fuel filter (205k)

Radiator and hoses (162k) : replaced with OEM, relocated overflow to make space for 2nd battery. Done in 2015 - when to re-do, 2023? 2025?

Batteries (setup 162k) and replacement (235k): 1 red top and 1 yellow top optima battery, solenoid shutoff, fuses and 4g wiring to 12V fridge/cooler and inverter. Original alternator, Consider brushings and slip rings as PM? Inspect big 3 wiring and fuses. Measure voltages when idle and driving.

Timing belt (163k): new cover, belt, and fan clutch mount. Owner suspects water pump was at that time, but not explicitly noted in records. Repeat at 260k? WP, tensioner and idle too.

Steering rack / ITRs / OTRs / LBJs (163k): OEM, work by owner.
Upper Ball Joins and UBJ bushings (178k): OEM, work by owner.
Right CV, both LBJs, steering knuckle, right wheel bearing, front shocks, right speed sensors. (221k accident) Inspect

MAF sensor, PCV valve, throttle body, IAC->TB gasket, TB -> plenum gasket (165k, 2015) IAC(175k): Replaced. Clean MAF, replace PCV.

Brakes (164k ‘05 Tundra 231mm swap) : (189k) rear cylinder (218k) front pads and rotors Inspect. Replace lines as PM?

Suspension (164k): Bilstein 4600 shocks and OME 880/906 springs. (186k), 1.5’ spacer added to rear, 1” overall lift and + 1” rake unloaded. No record of sway bar bushing or ends. Inspect, could be tired ~180-->200k overlanding fully loaded (~1500lbs) on rough road. Front shocks (221k)

Rear wheel bearing and axle seals: (189k) replaced. Inner CV axle (181k) replaced with remanufactured. Inspect.

Drive Belt (191k): Replaced. [B]Tension, replace at 250k

Starter (200k): Replaced

Tires (202k): LT265/75R-16 BFGOODRICH ALL-TERRAIN T/A KO2 E. Balance & rotate. Alignment - pulls slightly to the right during test drive. Some vibration at 70+ mph. Estimated 60% tread

TPS (204k): Replaced

Fuel pump (206k): Replaced

Driveshaft: Grease U-joints and Slip yokes last noted at 218k

Spark plugs, wires / coil pack (235k): OEM - had incorrect model # from south america service, discovered after P0306 and P0300

Transmission; Intermittent code P0770 Shift Solenoid E. Owner reports rare and under specific circumstances, has been advised to simply monitor unless other issues observed, ongoing since 170k. Some shavings/slivers observed at 178k (~10, 1cm long) Install magnefine filter? Monitor? Replace 3 solenoids? Probably the biggest area of concern, performed OK on short test drive.

Differential: no e-locker unfortunately, breather tube installed to gas fill door. Inspect.

Valve cover gasket - minor leak noted, as typical for age. Worth doing as PM or OK to wait on? PCV valve, grommet, hose at that time (last 2015)

Engine: Seafoam at 162k, MotorVAc cleaning at 163k, owner reports 15-16 mpg but that’s with the hardshell rooftop tent. No record of injectors - test resistance? No record of motor or transmission mounts. Worth seafoam, compression test?

I know that's a lot, so thanks for reading / suggesting. I want get rolling on the right foot.

Amazing post, my rear axle is rusted and a POS, and the 3rd member just went. Is it possible to to put the actuator on a non locking third member? Im too remote to get a rear diff but have 2 parts runners. I heard someone say they cut out and tapped one in but i cant find any information oddly enough. Is it possible? the locker is out of a 1997 limited and the donor axle nonlocker would be a 1998

Retrofit Electric Locker

needing advice on buying a 99 5 speed 4runner. its a v6 with 300,000 miles, it turns over but havent heard it run. it has a swapped in elocker but wired up. been off the road since 2014 also has 2 rust holes on the frame. the guy wants 2500. what would you offer or would you just stay away.

Sitting for 7+ years? Be prepared to put in a ton of work...

$2500 would be a steal for the rig described, even with 300k. (I’m assuming it’s a 4x4 since it has an e-locker swapped in). However the rust could be a big problem and require a lot of work, as noted above. If you can check it out a little closer, take a test drive, etc. that’ll tell you much more about it. I mean even if you had to put $2000 into it it would still be a really good deal around here. If you do buy it, don’t drive it until you’ve changed out all of the seven year old fluids. Comes down to how much time/money you have available for it.

Opinions on this one? Are these trucks really worth that much with that many miles?

1998 Toyota 4Runner SR5 4x4 - cars & trucks - by dealer - vehicle...

If the underside is clean as the body and interior minus the seats then yeah that’s a pretty reasonable price


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The fact that it's being sold by a dealer means that there's a premium added, and unless all the maintenance records are available, like when timing belt and lower ball joints were last done, you might be better off to keep looking and focus on private party.

The condition looks pretty good for a 98. Blown out seats, especially the driver, should be expected. Inspect it very carefully, looking for rust in the usual spots - especially trucks from the south, where flooding is common.

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Yeah like @TW44LR says, the price is probably about right in this current market, assuming no rust.

If you're considering it, you need to read through this thread so you know what to look for: 3rd Gen 4Runner Buyer's Guide

and get detailed/clear photos of the frame, including the inboard side of the lower rear trailing arm mounts.

EDIT: @octanejunkie I hadn't noticed it was a dealer. True about the premium..

SECOND EDIT: @Me007gold the thread I suggested you read IS this thread LOL so you're a step ahead of me haha

Newbie here and this group is great. Just bought a 2000 4Runner SR5 and I love it! Manual, 201k miles, decent body/interior. Already stripped the tiny screws while trying to pull out the MAFS to clean it hoping that will clear the engine light. I don’t know the history of this vehicle other that there were 4 previous owners. Other than an immediate oil change, what other maintenance would you recommend doing pretty quickly? Thanks!

Lower ball joints and lower ball joint bolts. OEM only! In case you need to know why: site:toyota-4Runner.org/3rd-gen-t4rs/ lower ball joint failure - Google Search Since you are a manual you don't have to worry about pink milkshake so that's a plus. Check your timing belt condition as well. If it's cracked then it's time to replace the timing belt/pulleys/water pump. FYI: any screws on the vehicle that look like a phillips are actually a JIS.