08-20-2019, 11:19 AM
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#31
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Join Date: Oct 2014
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Real Name: Scott
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Quote:
Originally Posted by theesotericone
The 5.29's have more teeth engaged. Show me one scientific test that proves 4.88's are stronger then 5.29's. It's been an age old wives tale that no one has ever verified to my knowledge. I looked a few years ago and couldn't find anything other than message board arguments with no evidence either way. lol
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Lol! Knew that would push some buttons!
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08-20-2019, 03:00 PM
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#32
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Senior Member
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Join Date: Sep 2015
Location: Kansas
Age: 28
Posts: 4,300
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Senior Member
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Quote:
Originally Posted by weekendclimber
The only consideration for 4.88's vs 5.29's is that the 4.88 gears are going to be stronger since the ring gear doesn't have to be cut as thin to fit more teeth.
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I thought the ring gear was cut thicker with the higher ratio gears?
Or did you mean the individual teeth are thinner?
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08-20-2019, 03:02 PM
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#33
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Member
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Join Date: Jan 2018
Location: Alabama
Posts: 36
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Join Date: Jan 2018
Location: Alabama
Posts: 36
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Baja Runner
Yes I would think it would be overkill to run 4.56's or 4.88's with 265's. Unless it was never going to go on the freeway again. ;)
You can comfortably run 35's with 4.30's !
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I agree for the most part, 4.56 or bigger is over kill for a stock size tire. I also don't think 4.30 is ok with 35's. Well maybe not comfortably, that's not to say it can't and probably is being done but I would step up at least one gear set for anything 35's or bigger.
I have 4.30's in mine and I run a true 33 inch tire and I think 33 this is about as big as I would go with stock 4.30's. It takes to much off the low end for pulling and towing. Highway use is great because it killed all of the RPM's in the motor but that comes with a sacrifice with towing.
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08-20-2019, 03:55 PM
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#34
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Senior Member
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Join Date: Oct 2014
Location: Seattle
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Real Name: Scott
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Inv4drZm
I thought the ring gear was cut thicker with the higher ratio gears?
Or did you mean the individual teeth are thinner?
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It's more the depth of cut and than the thickness of the tooth from my understanding. You start with the same thickness of metal for either sized ring gear. Then, the ring gear teeth are cut deeper, since logically they would have to be in order to fit less teeth on the larger 5.29's. For instance, Nitro gears have 37/7 on their 5.29 and 39/8 on the 4.88 (ring/pinion). Since the angles of the teeth are generally going to be the same this would mean to space them properly you would have to cut deeper on the 5.29's.
@ theesotericone
is right though, that there's really no definitive proof floating out there that this is a fact.
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08-20-2019, 09:42 PM
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#35
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Join Date: Jul 2016
Location: Bishop, Ca
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Quote:
Originally Posted by weekendclimber
@ theesotericone
is right though, that there's really no definitive proof floating out there that this is a fact.
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Which is odd because it's a really easy test to perform for a company like Yukon or Nitro. Just take the ring gear and lock it down. Weld a cog to the pinion and test with a force meter in line until failure. Repeat it 10 times with each gear set and you have a real base line to inform the customer. ARB did that shit 25 years ago and proved beyond any doubt, with science, that their units where the strongest available.
I've been on my 5,29's for 2 years and 1 year of that was on 35's. I wheel hard and often and when I pulled the diff a few weeks ago the ring and pinion where perfect. ECGS had to redo my bonded seal in my ARB and they also thought the wear was ideal. I'm not saying don't get 4.88's I'm just saying 5.29's are better. lol
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Only two things are infinite, the universe and human stupidity, and I'm not sure about the former. --Albert Einstein
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08-21-2019, 11:44 AM
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#36
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Senior Member
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Join Date: Oct 2014
Location: Seattle
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Real Name: Scott
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Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2014
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Quote:
Originally Posted by theesotericone
Which is odd because it's a really easy test to perform for a company like Yukon or Nitro. Just take the ring gear and lock it down. Weld a cog to the pinion and test with a force meter in line until failure. Repeat it 10 times with each gear set and you have a real base line to inform the customer. ARB did that shit 25 years ago and proved beyond any doubt, with science, that their units where the strongest available.
I've been on my 5,29's for 2 years and 1 year of that was on 35's. I wheel hard and often and when I pulled the diff a few weeks ago the ring and pinion where perfect. ECGS had to redo my bonded seal in my ARB and they also thought the wear was ideal. I'm not saying don't get 4.88's I'm just saying 5.29's are better. lol
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Sounds like a challenge for AvE. I love watching his ratchet torture tests from his home built torque measurement contraption!
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08-21-2019, 11:51 AM
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#37
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Join Date: Mar 2017
Location: Kentucky
Posts: 1,165
Real Name: Robert');DROP TABLE Students;
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Location: Kentucky
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I would watch that video. AvE is great
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08-21-2019, 02:47 PM
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#38
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Join Date: Oct 2014
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thezentree
I would watch that video. AvE is great
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Keep your dick in a vice!!
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08-21-2019, 05:43 PM
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#39
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Junior Member
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Join Date: Jul 2019
Location: Spring Creek, Nevada
Posts: 21
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Location: Spring Creek, Nevada
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I installed 4.88's from ECGS a couple weeks ago. With a rear detroit truetrac in my 2001.
My current set up in a 3" lift and 265/75/16's.
I live in a mountainous area in NE Nevada at over 5,000 feet in elevation. 95% of my driving is 60mph or less with a lot of time spent in the mountains hunting, camping, shed hunting etc.
My thoughts so far:
I think the 4.88's are perfect for me. I love the difference the 4.88's made. Coming from 4.10's my 4runner is like a new machine.
I currently have a Coastal Offroad front bumper and I am adding the rear single swing out and sliders.
In my opinion, for where and how I drive, I cannot imagine running 4.88's with 35" tires as an example, I would absolutely step up to 5.29's.
That being said, if you drive 70mph or more often, I would not recommend 4.88's with 265's. For me, they are awesome!!!
Setting the cruise control at 55mph for my commute has my engine rpm's dead on at 2,000 rpms.
Just my thoughts
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08-21-2019, 06:10 PM
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#40
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Senior Member
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Join Date: Oct 2014
Location: Seattle
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Real Name: Scott
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jearred.foruria
I installed 4.88's from ECGS a couple weeks ago. With a rear detroit truetrac in my 2001.
My current set up in a 3" lift and 265/75/16's.
I live in a mountainous area in NE Nevada at over 5,000 feet in elevation. 95% of my driving is 60mph or less with a lot of time spent in the mountains hunting, camping, shed hunting etc.
My thoughts so far:
I think the 4.88's are perfect for me. I love the difference the 4.88's made. Coming from 4.10's my 4runner is like a new machine.
I currently have a Coastal Offroad front bumper and I am adding the rear single swing out and sliders.
In my opinion, for where and how I drive, I cannot imagine running 4.88's with 35" tires as an example, I would absolutely step up to 5.29's.
That being said, if you drive 70mph or more often, I would not recommend 4.88's with 265's. For me, they are awesome!!!
Setting the cruise control at 55mph for my commute has my engine rpm's dead on at 2,000 rpms.
Just my thoughts
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Jeez!! Spoiler alert! I'm still waiting for the front diff install video!!
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08-22-2019, 12:49 PM
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#41
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Junior Member
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Join Date: Jul 2019
Location: Spring Creek, Nevada
Posts: 21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by weekendclimber
Jeez!! Spoiler alert! I'm still waiting for the front diff install video!!
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Ha ha! I almost got it finished last night!! Hopefully I will get it done tonight!!!
Cheers!!!
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05-16-2020, 07:23 AM
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#42
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Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: BVI
Posts: 12
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Thread revival!
It'd be great to see that vid if it got finiished?
Im on cusp of ordering built 5.29s from ECGS after a very informative chat with Stephen there.
I've got the KZN130 turbodiesel, with the A343F transmisssion which is 4.1 from factory.
1st 2nd 3rd O/D Reverse
2.804:1 1.530:1 1.000:1 0.753:1 2.393:1
We calculated that even with low 4400 rpm redline and new 33s, my truck would still be capable of over 100mph (something she'll *definitely* never see again out here in the Virgin Islands on 33s!!). There's probably only 2 spots on the whole island you might even be able to hit 80, and not safely on these roads.
Looking forward to the difference on the hills as we have severe gradients all over. My commute is sea level to 1400ft and back down over 4 miles, and plenty of asphalt roads that need 4WD when it rains!
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1994 KZN130 2nd gen Hilux Surf 3.0 TD: Monomax Fr, Eibach/Roughtrax rear 2" lift | Falken Wildpeak AT3 32" | chopped exhaust & rear bumper delete. About to get U-Pol Raptored...
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05-16-2020, 09:27 PM
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#43
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Member
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Join Date: Nov 2019
Location: Making my way to the sticks
Posts: 442
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Join Date: Nov 2019
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Why would you push 100mph in a runner? Seems unnecessary.
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Last edited by G_Raw; 05-16-2020 at 09:31 PM.
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10-21-2021, 04:26 AM
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#44
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Join Date: Dec 2020
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Yes I can no problem
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10-21-2021, 04:28 AM
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#45
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Join Date: Dec 2020
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While driving my 1992 Toyota 4Runner 3.0 V6 4 wheel drive I lost first second third fourth I lost all gears I know they're still there can anybody help me or give me some suggestions I was told we they put a new clutch in they were grinding at first and couple days later this didn't even hear nothing just pushed it in hard and the idea was going high but if I turn the truck off and put it in gear and then start it and take off it's in gear
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