05-10-2011, 10:14 PM
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#1
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Junior Member
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Timing Belt Tensioner: Should I replace it when doing the timing belt change?
The timing belt tensioner is not cheap. My 1998 T4R has 131K and runs great, but I have no history on the truck since it was purchased at an auction. I'm doing belts and thermostat soon. I say keep the old tensioner in service unless it looks damaged. What say you? I'd like some opinions please. Thanks in advance! This forum is great!
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05-10-2011, 10:32 PM
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#2
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Do the t belts, tentioner, idle pullies, t-stat, fan belts, upper and lower rad hoses.
If it is old and it comes off, change it out for new.
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2000 4runner Sport, SAS/4wheel Underground 3 link, Diamond axle, 14" Radflo coilovers, double locked, Custom rear 3 link, 12" Fox shocks, full armor Gerdo's Build Thread
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05-11-2011, 03:51 PM
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#3
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Join Date: Nov 2010
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My tensioner has 231k on it, you should be ok for now.
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1997 3.4l SR5 5spd 4WD E-locked. Blue wire mod, 99 tall springs, 32" Duratracs, Satoshi Grill, Tundra 231 brakes, 99 center console.
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05-11-2011, 05:01 PM
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#4
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Budget providing, an ounce of pervention is worth its weight in " MONEY " after the fact......
I always ask myself, do I want to pay or diy again it needed later when I could have taken care of it the first time.
Hope this helps......regards 8sm
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05-11-2011, 05:33 PM
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#5
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I did my TB, WP, etc. at 120K and changed everything. I'm going to leave it all to 240K. Now if I were changing TB at the recommended 90K, I think you could leave the tensioner, and possibly the two idlers, to go to 180K, if they check out ok. My originals are in the trail spare box, and they are in very good shape. So it really depends on how soon you plan to go back in. If you are not planning on doing the TB until 260K, you better change everything now. If you do the TB at 130K + 90K = 220K, that's a little more reasonable on the tensioner, but probably pushing your luck.
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05-11-2011, 06:41 PM
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#6
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MAKE SURE YOU REPLACE YOUR WATERPUMP! when doing the timing belt. the reason being is that your waterpump is ran by the timing so its better just to do it while your in there. i have seen it a hundred times where someone just replaces the timing belt and does not do the water pump and six months down the road the water pump is leaking and have to go through it all again. but not replacing the timing belt just the water pump. so make sure you do that if your gonna do the timing. i own a shop and its mandatory that the water pump gets replaced when timing belt runs water pump.
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05-11-2011, 08:16 PM
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#7
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05-11-2011, 08:20 PM
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#8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Elton H
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05-11-2011, 08:27 PM
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#9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Elton H
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X3 Just got this kit and very complete, very pleased. Going in next week. While you are in there might as well do it all and not have to worry about it, esp if you don't plan on going back in for a while like me.
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05-11-2011, 08:34 PM
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#10
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05-12-2011, 07:00 AM
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#11
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What about the cam and crankshaft seals ? These seem to cause the biggest problems for people . If they look good do they need changing ? I don't think you have to remove the crank pulley if you don't change the crankshaft seal ?
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05-12-2011, 09:18 AM
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#12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JT3HN86R
What about the cam and crankshaft seals ? These seem to cause the biggest problems for people . If they look good do they need changing ? I don't think you have to remove the crank pulley if you don't change the crankshaft seal ?
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I'm sitting at ~208k and haven't changed mine. If they are seeping I would change them.
The way I see the tentioner, water pump and idelers is that if they fail they will go quick leaving you stranded.
Worst case if the tentioner fails, the belts will slip and the engine will stop. Same goes with the belts. This engine is a non-interference engine (means that if the valves are open, the pistons will not hit them)
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2000 4runner Sport, SAS/4wheel Underground 3 link, Diamond axle, 14" Radflo coilovers, double locked, Custom rear 3 link, 12" Fox shocks, full armor Gerdo's Build Thread
Real Fuel Tank Skidplates for sale Lil' Skip's OffRoad
Rear control arm mount skids and Hi-Lift adapter for sale Lotus Development
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05-12-2011, 09:33 AM
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#13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Atreyus
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I bought this one. Great parts. Everything was exactly as described. Everything worked great for me.
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05-12-2011, 10:11 AM
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#14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Atreyus
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Nice kit.
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2000 4runner Sport, SAS/4wheel Underground 3 link, Diamond axle, 14" Radflo coilovers, double locked, Custom rear 3 link, 12" Fox shocks, full armor Gerdo's Build Thread
Real Fuel Tank Skidplates for sale Lil' Skip's OffRoad
Rear control arm mount skids and Hi-Lift adapter for sale Lotus Development
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05-12-2011, 12:58 PM
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#15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JT3HN86R
What about the cam and crankshaft seals ? These seem to cause the biggest problems for people . If they look good do they need changing ? I don't think you have to remove the crank pulley if you don't change the crankshaft seal ?
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yes while your in there you want to replace those seals also. no point not doing it because they are a problem and usually they are leaking by the time its time to replace the timing belt
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