05-30-2011, 03:48 PM
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#1
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Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Cupertino, CA
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Banned
Join Date: Sep 2010
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1997 2WD 4Runner front shock 'blown' (would love experienced advice on the repair)
1997 Toyota 4Runner 2WD (base model), 235x75R15 wheels, 115K miles, never been off the pavement, used as a kid-transport vehicle.
The last two sets of front right tires wore out prematurely (mostly the right front tire tread was worn off the outside few inches).
Since the wear was non-cupped, I was told a year ago it wasn't the shocks so I had an alignment done each time I replaced the front tires.
But, the wear continues, mostly on the right front tire (outside edges mostly).
This time, when I had the tires replaced, I asked the mechanic what could cause just one tire to wear so much. He said my front right shock was 'blown'. He showed me grease running down the shock which wasn't on the other front side.
He pushed "Monroe" shocks really hard, but I said I wanted to ask you guys first before selecting shocks and having them installed (I hate the hard sell). He was very disappointed, warning that irreversible tire wear will continue right from the start.
So, I need to select the 'right' front shocks & tools for my 1997 2WD 4runner (I drive sedately, and only on pavement, so I don't need anything fancy).
Searching here for what you guys put on 3rd-generation 2WD 4Runners, I can't find much, surprisingly, I guess because most of you do off roading and use 4wd systems.
But I do find the following (mostly 4WD) threads with suggested (mostly offroad) shocks, suppliers, & tools:
- 93 Front Shocks ==> Bilstein HD, OME,
- Front struts replacing ==> top plates, OME springs, Bilsteins, Conicelli
- 2009 4Runner front shocks ==> Autozone strut compressor, castle nuts for the two tie rods, two cotter pins for the tie rods, 100 ft lbs on the lower shock bolt, Red LocTite, Bilsteins, OME
- Replace shocks ==> OME HD
- where to buy new front shocks ==> Billstein, KYB, Monroe Reflex, Tokico, www.shox.com, toyotapartscheap.com, cheaptoyotaparts.com
May I ask if this summary is correct, and, if not, for corrections?
The shocks:
- OEM (Tokiko?)
- Bilsteins
- KYB
- Monroe Reflex
- (what do you recommend?)
The suppliers:
The tools:
- Autozone strut compressor
- Red LockTite
- (what else do you recommend?)
The procedure:
In summary, can you advise me what shocks you'd suggest, from where, and where a better front-shock 2wd DIY is located?
Last edited by mom; 05-30-2011 at 04:55 PM.
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05-30-2011, 05:18 PM
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#2
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Senior Member
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Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Raleigh, North Carolina
Posts: 3,262
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Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Raleigh, North Carolina
Posts: 3,262
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Just go with tokico.It is the OEM shock and functions just fine. As far as your tire wear. Sure , it looks worn on the outside but your tire is also worn all the way across too. Bad shocks would produce a cupping affect on the tires. your tires look smooth and no cups.
You tires look worn out. Maybe making a lot of left turns.
Get an Alignment and have them check you tie rods and ball joints for wear. Replace what is needed and have it re-aligned.
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05-30-2011, 05:40 PM
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#3
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Moderator
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Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Colo Springs, CO
Age: 37
Posts: 5,150
Real Name: Waldo
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Moderator
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Colo Springs, CO
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2wd or 4wd, the removal procedure is the same.. You will need to remove the coil/strut from the vehicle. Compress the coil until you are able to remove the top nut to safely remove the strut. Then, replace the strut and install everything back in the vehicle. Takes some time and strut compressors can be very dangerous if not used correctly.
I also second Tokico shocks. You can contact your dealer for part numbers or look them up online. As far as the wear goes on the tire, are you rotating the tires at all? The shock may fix your problem but if you're not rotating the tires then you can always expect to see more wear on the fronts due to turning. Like Singtoe said, inspect your tie rod ends and upper and lower ball joints for evident wear.
__________________
'99 Toyota 4Runner LTD - Dual Locked | Geared | Mid-Travel | 35s | Armored
Last edited by JWaldz; 05-30-2011 at 05:45 PM.
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05-30-2011, 10:17 PM
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#4
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Banned
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Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Cupertino, CA
Posts: 196
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Banned
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Cupertino, CA
Posts: 196
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Singtoe
Just go with tokico
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Thanks you for taking the time to help me.
I wasn't sure 'what' shocks you guys put on these things so I was leaning toward OEM Tokico myself (I didn't know if there was anything bad you guys knew about the OEM front struts). This helps me make my decision. I'll go with OEM Tokico (at the best price I can find).
Quote:
Originally Posted by Singtoe
your tire is also worn all the way across
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Yes. You are observant. I've waited about 5 months too long to replace all four. They are all new now. But, the front right ALWAYS wore more than the rest. It was an outside edge wear, even after alignments.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Singtoe
Bad shocks would produce a cupping affect on the tires.
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You are definitely observant. There are no cups. So, I do agree. Bad shocks would normally cause cupping which I don't have. But, the shock does have leaks all over and it's the original shock from 1997.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Singtoe
You tires look worn out. Maybe making a lot of left turns.
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I think it's more that I drove on them half a year longer than I should have.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Singtoe
Get an Alignment and have them check you tie rods and ball joints for wear.
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That's good advice. But, I had multiple alignments already.
I'm surprised the 4Runner goes out of alignment that easily.
I do not drive off road ever. I don't drive fast. And, the roads here in California are about as good as anywhere in the country as there are almost no potholes to speak of.
Quote:
Originally Posted by ARKRWLR
2wd or 4wd, the removal procedure is the same.
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Aha! Thank you very much for assisting me with advice.
When I searched, almost all the procedures said it was so simple that anyone could do it (having someone else compress the springs). So, I'm leaning toward doing it myself for everything EXCEPT the spring compression part.
Knowing that the procedure is the same for the 97 2wd and the 97 4wd helps a lot because there are few 2wd 4runners out there with DIYs on them for front struts.
Quote:
Originally Posted by ARKRWLR
You will need to remove the coil/strut from the vehicle. Compress the coil until you are able to remove the top nut to safely remove the strut. Then, replace the strut and install everything back in the vehicle. Takes some time and strut compressors can be very dangerous if not used correctly.
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When I read the search record, it seemed almost every person broke or bent their coil compression tools. That's amazing. These must be STRONG coils. I 'might' tackle that myself (renting the Autozone coil compressor); but I think I'll find a shop that will just do the coil compression for me.
Quote:
Originally Posted by ARKRWLR
I also second Tokico shocks
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Thank you also. I trust you as you guys aren't making any money off of me like the Goodyear guy was pushing Monroe shocks. I'll go with the OEM Tokico. Tonight I'll look for a good price and post that to see what you guys think of it.
Quote:
Originally Posted by ARKRWLR
As far as the wear goes on the tire, are you rotating the tires at all?
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I feel like lying and saying that I did; but the only times they were rotated was when I did the brakes. I do realize that's my fault ... but even so ... the front right tire 'does' wear faster than all the rest (a lot faster).
Quote:
Originally Posted by ARKRWLR
inspect your tie rod ends and upper and lower ball joints for evident wear.
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Thanks for that advice. I will first look up the shock replacement information, and then, I'll look up how to tell if a tie rod end or upper and lower ball joints are worn.
Thanks and please keep advice coming as I need your help!
Here is a picture of the leaking strut (I think it's a strut, right ... not a shock)...
Last edited by mom; 05-30-2011 at 11:34 PM.
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05-30-2011, 10:33 PM
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#5
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Senior Member
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Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Raleigh, North Carolina
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If you're not rotating tires much it is possible and normal for the right tire to be more worn. Even though you are in California and have the most perfect roads in America, the issue is that almost all roads have an ever so slight slope to the right. This helps shed rain water off the highway.
Looking at your pictures. You really don't have a problem. If belts were showing, and you had an excessive amount of tread left on the left side of the tire, I would say you have a problem. Coincidentally, How many miles did you get out of that set of tires?
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05-30-2011, 10:41 PM
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#6
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Moderator
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Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Colo Springs, CO
Age: 37
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Real Name: Waldo
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Moderator
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Colo Springs, CO
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Singtoe
If you're not rotating tires much it is possible and normal for the right tire to be more worn. Even though you are in California and have the most perfect roads in America, the issue is that almost all roads have an ever so slight slope to the right. This helps shed rain water off the highway.
Looking at your pictures. You really don't have a problem. If belts were showing, and you had an excessive amount of tread left on the left side of the tire, I would say you have a problem. Coincidentally, How many miles did you get out of that set of tires?
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HAHAHAHA
I'm thinking the same thing. While yes there is evident uneven wear, the tread seems to tell me you got the most out of those tires. I bet you if you rotate your tires as much as you're 'suppose to' you would see A LOT less wear like that. Ragardless, if you have a busted front strut then it obviously needs to be fixed. I doubt it has much of a play factor in the uneven tread your getting though.
__________________
'99 Toyota 4Runner LTD - Dual Locked | Geared | Mid-Travel | 35s | Armored
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05-30-2011, 11:55 PM
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#7
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Banned
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Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Cupertino, CA
Posts: 196
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Banned
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Singtoe
How many miles did you get out of that set of tires?
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They were Dunlop A/T Radial Rover tires, P235/75R15 (10mm wider than the original Firestone tires).
They had a 105S weight rating & a UTQG of Traction=A, Temperature=B, and Treadwear=500 (i.e., about 500% of 10K miles which should be about 50K miles).
They are the third set of tires for this 4Runner so I'm not sure how many miles, but, since the 4Runner only has 112K miles, then each set averaged only 37K miles, which is atrocious based on the treadwear rating of 500.
The new tires are Hankook Optimo H727, which I picked because they are stronger tires at 108T weight and they have a UTGQ of 700, A, B ... which means they 'should' last 700% of 10K miles or 70,000 miles. We'll see.
Quote:
Originally Posted by ARKRWLR
I bet you if you rotate your tires as much as you're 'suppose to' you would see A LOT less wear like that.
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How often would you rotate these tires?
I'm guessing every 5K miles (or every oil change).
Quote:
Originally Posted by ARKRWLR
if you have a busted front strut then it obviously needs to be fixed. I doubt it has much of a play factor in the uneven tread your getting though.
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Interesting that the shock isn't the cause of the right-front tire wear. These tires should get at least 50K miles and they didn't get anywhere near that (more like half that) ... so I MUST have something wrong.
Not rotating them must be killing me (taking half the life of the tire)?
BTW, here is a picture of the left front original strut (you can see "Toyota" and "Tokico" stamped on the strut, along with a partial part number it seems).
And, below that is a picture of the right front strut (it seems to be leaking but I never noticed a difference in driving).
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05-31-2011, 07:47 AM
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#8
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Senior Member
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Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Raleigh, North Carolina
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Yep, That strut has seen better days. Another issue that you might have is that your spring seams to be sagging a lot. Just looking at the bump stops, it definitely varies from one side to the other. You Probably have a bad spring too.
You will need to replace them in pairs but new struts and springs will fix your excessive wear problem.
Don't forget to get a new alignment after working on the front end.
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05-31-2011, 08:34 AM
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#9
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Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Bay Area
Age: 43
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You are in luck. I have a pair of front OEM shocks that I took off of my 4runner when it had 43k original miles. I also live in San Jose. Email me at [email protected] and you can have them for $50. If you'd like to raise your 4runner to 4x4 height I will also give you my stock springs front and rear with rear shocks for an additional $100. It's up to you.
You can check the mileage of my 4runner to varify. It currently only has 48k original miles.
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05-31-2011, 08:59 AM
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#10
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Senior Member
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Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Boston MA
Age: 40
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Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2010
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I would go with all new stuff, not shocks and springs that already have 43k on them. It will cost more, but especially when hauling kids, I err on the side of paying more for something I know the history of.
You can look around at some other options, and if you are replacing both fronts, then you might consider sonoran steel's 3.0 kit and just replace all around. The rears aren't that expensive anyway.
__________________
2000 SR5 3.4L V6 Automatic 4x4, e-locker, 175k Miles, Rust
Imp. Jade Mica with Oak Leather Interior, Field Monitor Unit - B&M Tranny Cooler - SG2 - New (to me) rear axle assembly - Goodyear Duratrac 265/75-16 - 1.8" Ironman Front Lift, OME 906/Procomp 9000 Shocks
http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-ge...ld-thread.html
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05-31-2011, 01:04 PM
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#11
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Banned
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Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Cupertino, CA
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Banned
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Singtoe
looking at the bump stops, it definitely varies from one side to the other. You Probably have a bad spring too
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I don't know what a 'bump stop' is.
Googling, for " Tokico bump stops", I find these pictures; but I don't see them in my photos above.
Are they hidden from view on the top or bottom of the shock?
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05-31-2011, 01:13 PM
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#12
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Banned
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nelsonmd
I would go with all new stuff
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Me too.
I called Tokico (actually Hitachi) in Los Angeles (800-548-2549) to ask about the following shocks (see pic below) - but I'm still waiting for them to call me back.
With the information about the 'bump stop', does this look like the stuff I need to test for?
- Replace both front shocks with OEM equivalents (Tokico GU3564 TREKMASTER SHOCK)
- Test spring for sagging (bump stop?)
- Test tie rod ends
- Test control arm ball joints
- Alignment when all done
Are those the tests I need to research to figure out how to perform?
Last edited by mom; 05-31-2011 at 01:51 PM.
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05-31-2011, 01:49 PM
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#13
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Banned
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Join Date: Sep 2010
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Banned
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gumballf355
I have a pair of front OEM shocks ... I will also give you my stock springs front and rear with rear shocks
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I appreciate your offer ... as it is very kind of you; but I've never bought used parts and, even the dealers say there are three or four different shock/spring combinations for my particular 2WD 4Runner ... (although Tokico lists only one part number ... so I'm not sure if the dealers are handing me the straight scoop or not).
Plus, I have a bit of vibration at speed so I'm going with all new parts as I'm not sure 'what' is causing the vibration.
Calling the three closest dealers first, to get a price/availability on these two parts:
- Front shock: Toyota P/N 48510-39406
- Front spring: Toyota P/N 48131-35170
I find the following:
- Sunnyvale Toyota, 888-719-8683
- $197 each front shock, $125 each front spring (+ 10% tax)
- Stevenscreek Toyota, 800-496-4307
- $181 each front shock, $109 each front spring (+ 10% tax)
- Piercey Toyota,408-240-1400
- $181 each front shock, $118 each front spring (+ 10% tax)
Interestingly, even though the dealers asked for my VIN and for my tire size (P235/75R15), the latter two would NOT provide the part numbers!
None of them had the parts in stock, all said they could get the shocks in a day (since they were a Toyota "B stocking" category, which apparently means the Toyota Los Angeles warehouse keeps them in stock at all times) ... while all said the springs would take a few days.
Last edited by mom; 05-31-2011 at 01:51 PM.
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05-31-2011, 01:51 PM
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#14
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Senior Member
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Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Boston MA
Age: 40
Posts: 3,394
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Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Boston MA
Age: 40
Posts: 3,394
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mom
With the information about the 'bump stop', does this look like the stuff I need to test for?
- Replace both front shocks with OEM equivalents (Tokico GU3564 TREKMASTER SHOCK)
- Test spring for sagging (bump stop?)
- Test tie rod ends
- Test control arm ball joints
- Alignment when all done
Are those the tests I need to research to figure out how to perform?
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The bump stops are the rubber discs mounted to the lower control arm. You can see them in your pictures on the arm the bottom of each shock is mounted to. They have a hex collar around the bottom.
What he means is that it looks like there is less space between the bumpstop and the frame above it, suggesting that the passenger spring is more compressed than the driver's side. It could just be the angle of the picture though. You should be able to tell by actually looking at them.
You can test the TRE's and ball joints by jacking up a wheel and shaking the wheel for the sides (back and forth) and from the top and bottom. Play in either direction would suggest bad TRE's and ball joints respectively.
__________________
2000 SR5 3.4L V6 Automatic 4x4, e-locker, 175k Miles, Rust
Imp. Jade Mica with Oak Leather Interior, Field Monitor Unit - B&M Tranny Cooler - SG2 - New (to me) rear axle assembly - Goodyear Duratrac 265/75-16 - 1.8" Ironman Front Lift, OME 906/Procomp 9000 Shocks
http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-ge...ld-thread.html
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05-31-2011, 07:49 PM
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#15
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Banned
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Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Cupertino, CA
Posts: 196
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Banned
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Looking only at the suggested suppliers listed in the first thread from reading a bunch of shock threads here, we get the following for the front shocks (Toyota P/N 48510-39406): - Conicelli Parts Center $128.15 each + shipping from PA
- Toyota Parts Cheap $131.44 + shipping + 10% tax
- Cheap Toyota Parts (does not seem to exist)
- Shox.com: Bilsteins $95.50 (monotube vs twintube) + shipping + 10% tax
It's interesting that the Bilsteins are 1/3 cheaper than the Tokico shocks. I would think it would be the other way around.
Are the Tokico shocks really so much better than the Bilsteins that Tokico can command a 33% higher price???
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