06-15-2011, 10:33 PM
|
#1
|
|
Member
|
|
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: NC
Posts: 144
|
|
Member
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: NC
Posts: 144
|
Valve Cover Gasket
So, I've got a leaky valve cover. Anyone know of a detailed write-up with pics? I've searched to no avail.
I have found that I should check the tightness of the bolts before replacing the gaskets.
I'll use the info I found from M@d M@x:
Quote:
Originally Posted by M@D-M@X
My order consists of :
1-PCV Valve, Part #12204-62010 Might as well replace it while I'm doing this
1-PCV Grommet, Part # 90480-18001 Just in case the old one is in bad shape
2-Valve Cover Gaskets (both the L & R side are the same part), Part #11213-62020
6-Spark Plug Tube Gaskets, Part # 11193-16010 No need to replace as of yet but it is recommended
2-Intake Plenum Gaskets (both the upper & lower are the same part), Part # 17176-62040
16-Washer Seals (for the valve cover bolts) Part # 90210-05007 While I'm at it, might as well change them
|
Best route to take would be to just label everything carefully, take pictures, etc., unbolt upper/lower plenums, then remove VC?
If the gaskets are shot, use acetone and razor blade to remove old gaskets?
Any adhesive/sealant when applying new gaskets?
LocTite.. anti-seize?
Thank you.
__________________
1996 SR5 Anthracite Oxidized 2wd 260k+ mi, commuter.
2006 SR5 V8 4wd Driftwood Pearl. Spacer lift. Stock for now.
|
|
Reply With Quote
|
06-15-2011, 10:40 PM
|
#2
|
|
Elite Member
|
|
Join Date: May 2011
Location: OBX, NC and Obamaville
Posts: 6,801
|
|
Elite Member
Join Date: May 2011
Location: OBX, NC and Obamaville
Posts: 6,801
|
Here is one from the folks over at YT: I have not been around the campfire long enough here to know of a good post on VC changing on this board.
5vzfe leaky valve covers fixed (56k beware) - Page 2 - YotaTech Forums
Replace the cam plug seals as well. One on each side in the back. Let me know if you need the part#.
I swear by the toyota FIPG but others have used the grey RTV with good results for the half moons.
Make it a day, make sure to have the right tools, and enjoy.
|
|
Reply With Quote
|
06-16-2011, 12:07 AM
|
#3
|
|
Member
|
|
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Mico, Tx
Posts: 280
|
|
Member
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Mico, Tx
Posts: 280
|
Its not a hard job at all, just gotta pull the throttle body, and upper and lower intake manifolds off to get to the driver side valve cover. Just did them on my 96 the other day along with tbelt and all the seals etc. and it took about 4 hours. Just pay attention to how it comes apart and youll have no problem.
__________________
1985 4runner 22re solid axle 5 speed 5.29's
1996 4runner Limited E-Locker, Boosted, OME, KM2's, 4x Sliders, ARB Prado Bar, Warn M8000
|
|
Reply With Quote
|
06-16-2011, 12:22 AM
|
#4
|
|
Senior Member
|
|
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Philadelphia, PA
Posts: 3,921
|
|
Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Philadelphia, PA
Posts: 3,921
|
I tighten my valve cover bolts when I bought my truck, hasn't leaked a drop since.
|
|
Reply With Quote
|
06-16-2011, 02:29 AM
|
#5
|
|
Member
|
|
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: NoPo, OR
Posts: 440
|
|
Member
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: NoPo, OR
Posts: 440
|
I did the job a couple months ago and it took me probably 8 hours total, but it was a little slower because I was teaching some kids about working on cars. Nothing is hard about it, it just takes time. Make sure you have a torque wrench (inch/lb and ft/lb wrench) to do the job right. I would also suggest changing the spark plugs while you are down there.
I did not have to order all the parts listed above in your first post. I only got the actual valve cover gaskets and two intake plenum gaskets (It turned out I didn't really need to replace those.
As far as a write up I used the Toyota Service Manual and that was the best instructions. Tells you the order to do things if you aren't savy and also has the torque numbers for each bolt and nut.
__________________
98 Limited V6 w/310k Miles l 4X4 l Rear Locker l Goodyear Duratracs 265/75/16 l 199mm Tundra Brake Mod l Cobra 800 Watt Power Converter l Uniden Pro 520 XL CB Radio l Bilstein HD Shocks l CS 144 Alternator
|
|
Reply With Quote
|
06-16-2011, 02:41 AM
|
#6
|
Member
|
|
Join Date: Jan 2011
Posts: 39
|
|
Member
Join Date: Jan 2011
Posts: 39
|
Quote:
Originally Posted by PitbullRescuer
I tighten my valve cover bolts when I bought my truck, hasn't leaked a drop since.
|
yup - tighten first then observe... replace only when it still leaks.
|
|
Reply With Quote
|
06-16-2011, 04:48 AM
|
#7
|
|
Junior Member
|
|
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: Nor Cal
Posts: 8
|
|
Junior Member
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: Nor Cal
Posts: 8
|
I changed mine but could have easily gotten away with just tightening the valve cover bolts. Mine were really loose
|
|
Reply With Quote
|
06-16-2011, 11:25 AM
|
#8
|
|
Member
|
|
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: NC
Posts: 144
|
|
Member
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: NC
Posts: 144
|
Quote:
Originally Posted by Sherwood4Runner
As far as a write up I used the Toyota Service Manual and that was the best instructions. Tells you the order to do things if you aren't savy and also has the torque numbers for each bolt and nut.
|
I have the FSM from TTORA and couldn't locate the section on the valve cover gaskets. Where would one find it?
Quote:
Originally Posted by LittleCaesar
Replace the cam plug seals as well. One on each side in the back. Let me know if you need the part#.
I swear by the toyota FIPG but others have used the grey RTV with good results for the half moons.
|
What's the p/n for the cam plug seals?
The Toyo FIPG can be bought at the dealership or online parts sales where I get the gaskets?
I don't have access to a powerwasher, would it be best to take it to a DIY carwash, spray degreaser on the affected area and spray off?
__________________
1996 SR5 Anthracite Oxidized 2wd 260k+ mi, commuter.
2006 SR5 V8 4wd Driftwood Pearl. Spacer lift. Stock for now.
|
|
Reply With Quote
|
06-16-2011, 02:07 PM
|
#9
|
Member
|
|
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Camp Hill, PA
Age: 43
Posts: 73
|
|
Member
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Camp Hill, PA
Age: 43
Posts: 73
|
This is an easy job, just take your time and label all the hoses. You will need to remove the plenums no matter what to tighten all the valve cover bolts. A torque wrench is mandatory as well and be gentle with the bolts, they require 4lb. I used red locktight as well.
As for cleaning up the leaked oil, I used some foaming engine cleaner which worked well. Just use common sense when ringing it off.
|
|
Reply With Quote
|
06-16-2011, 03:10 PM
|
#10
|
|
Elite Member
|
|
Join Date: May 2011
Location: OBX, NC and Obamaville
Posts: 6,801
|
|
Elite Member
Join Date: May 2011
Location: OBX, NC and Obamaville
Posts: 6,801
|
Camshaft housing plug(2): 11188-62010
FIPG: 00295-00102 or it may be 00103 now.
My semi circular plugs (half moon) were the main culprits for my leaks and not the gaskets themselves per se. Tightening the bolts would have done nothing for me. Since I had to remove the valve covers to strip off the factory FIPG and pack some new on for those semi-circular plugs, I though I might as well replace all gaskets.
Acetone is your friend but be liberal with it.
Take note of the location of the old FIPG and replace with the new (black) FIPG.
NO loctite of any kind is necessary for this job. None.
Follow the FSM and YT link and you should be OK.
Last edited by LittleCaesar; 06-16-2011 at 07:14 PM.
|
|
Reply With Quote
|
06-20-2011, 10:02 AM
|
#11
|
Member
|
|
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Maryland
Posts: 972
|
|
Member
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Maryland
Posts: 972
|
Quote:
Originally Posted by PitbullRescuer
I tighten my valve cover bolts when I bought my truck, hasn't leaked a drop since.
|
Same here. When I went to get mine the valve cover was leaking all over the place. Talked the PO down on proce because of it. Got home and tighened all the bolts (all of them were barely finger tight), cleaned up with some degreaser and hasn't leaked yet.
__________________
2015 Gray SR5 Premium 4Runner - Toytec Ultimate - LR UCAs - ARB Fridge - Airaid CAI - Flowmaster - 255/75 Cooper ST Maxx
Gone: 1998 Desert Dune 4Runner - Toytec/Eibachs w/ LC 8 Wraps - Bilstein 5100s All Around
Gone: 07 Sunfusion FJ Cruiser - OME lift and a bunch of other stuff (I miss this one)
Gone: 05 Silver TRD Offroad Tacoma Doublecab - Toytec lift and other goodies
|
|
Reply With Quote
|
06-20-2011, 04:06 PM
|
#12
|
|
Elite Member
|
|
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: San Diego
Age: 41
Posts: 11,437
Real Name: Instagram: briansd_97r
|
|
Elite Member
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: San Diego
Age: 41
Posts: 11,437
Real Name: Instagram: briansd_97r
|
I love the fact that the YotaTech article has the words "56k beware" - meaning those of you on a 56k modem are probably SOL.
__________________
Those he commands move only in command, Nothing in love. Now does he feel his title, Hang loose about him, like a giant’s robe, Upon a dwarfish treasonous thief.
|
|
Reply With Quote
|
06-20-2011, 09:29 PM
|
#13
|
|
Member
|
|
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: NC
Posts: 144
|
|
Member
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: NC
Posts: 144
|
Got my gaskets and FIPG, which is 00103 now, by the way, LittleCaesar. Thank you for the numbers.
-Also, is it necessary to do the camshaft housing plugs too? I forgot to get the spark plug tub seals and cam plugs, doh!
The plug tube seals in the YT link didn't look worn at all..
56k still exists?
I can't find anything in the FSM, I'll pore over it again. Are y'all going by these headings or is there a section specifically for VC gaskets?
R.M. 2002::Engine Mechanical (5VZ-FE): Cylinder Head: Components
R.M. 2002::Engine Mechanical (5VZ-FE): Cylinder Head: Removal
R.M. 2002::Engine Mechanical (5VZ-FE): Cylinder Head: Disassembly
R.M. 2002::Engine Mechanical (5VZ-FE): Cylinder Head: Inspection
R.M. 2002::Engine Mechanical (5VZ-FE): Cylinder Head: Replacement
R.M. 2002::Engine Mechanical (5VZ-FE): Cylinder Head: Reassembly
R.M. 2002::Engine Mechanical (5VZ-FE): Cylinder Head: Installation
__________________
1996 SR5 Anthracite Oxidized 2wd 260k+ mi, commuter.
2006 SR5 V8 4wd Driftwood Pearl. Spacer lift. Stock for now.
|
|
Reply With Quote
|
06-21-2011, 01:35 AM
|
#14
|
|
Elite Member
|
|
Join Date: May 2011
Location: OBX, NC and Obamaville
Posts: 6,801
|
|
Elite Member
Join Date: May 2011
Location: OBX, NC and Obamaville
Posts: 6,801
|
The procedure for removal begins on EM-30 and ends on EM-61 but the chapter is for removing the cylinder head. Don't remove the exhaust pipe nor disconnect the fuel return hose or remove the cams. You have to be able to pick out the procedures that apply to just removing the valve covers and then putting everything back together. I'd start with removing the air intake, and then you should be able to see how everything comes apart from there.
I'd tell ya not to skip the cam seal (housing) plugs but if you do not want to spend the $$$ on the spark plug tube seals, I would not sweat it too much since I cannot recall anyone ever seeing oil in their spark plug tubes. Mine old ones were hard, but still sealed fine.
Take your time and some pictures of your upper cylinder head. If you have more ?s, just holler.
|
|
Reply With Quote
|
06-21-2011, 03:10 AM
|
#15
|
|
Member
|
|
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Alabama
Posts: 231
|
|
Member
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Alabama
Posts: 231
|
when i did my vc gaskets i replaced the spark plug seals, when i pulled them off they pretty much crumbled. i had about 150k on my engine at that point. i did not replace the cam seals and havnt had a problem, but looking back i should have replaced everything when i had it apart.
__________________
99 SR5 4wd. SS1.2 lift, Badlands bumpers front and rear with swing out tire carrier, Ramsey patriot winch, ARB lockers front and rear with 4.88 gears, 15x8 Procomp Series 8069, BFG KM2 33x10.5
|
|
Reply With Quote
|
Posting Rules
|
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts
HTML code is On
|
|
|
|