Thanks man... And actually, this write-up I did awhile back might help you out w/one of those...

B&M 70268 SuperCooler Transmission Cooler Install on a 3rd Gen

Thanks for all the good info, you made it a breeze for me to buy the parts and swap everything out! Brakes are much more powerful, even with a TJM T-15 and winch on the front I can lock the brakes on pavement.

I did have a little rubbing on the outside of the caliper against the rim but it was solved by grinding the caliper just a little. I have the stock SR5 rims on a 99. Everything else was very straightforward. Thank you again for posting all of your findings!

Awesome write-up! Just finished my 231mm upgrade this weekend and it went flawlessly thanks to this thread!

Glad to be of some help! And congrats on your brake upgrades.

Thanks for the post was very helpful when I did mine a week ago. Two things that I discovered when I did mine that might be helpful for those that follow is.

1 Hacksaw is awesome for trimming brake shield. Made my underpowered dremel look pathetic

2 You might not have to trim the middle of the brake shield. The 1st side did not require trimming. The 2nd side rubbed, but after loosening the 4 bolts that hold the shield on I was able to push it about a 1mm back allowing the rotor to move freely(away from the where the caliper would be). It would certainly save people alot of trouble hacking off 1mm of the middle of the shield by simply pushing it back.

Thanks for posting this. It made getting the correct parts much easier. Thought I would post a picture of the 231s under some split 3 spoke rims. Did a little grinding to the calipers and rims. This is one of the biggest upgrades I have done for the truck. The bigger brakes have smoothed out the crazy front end shake.

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An easier and safer way of closing off the brake line so no fluid leaks is to use hose pinch pliers. Amazon sells quite a few sets and they currently have a 3 piece set from ATD and a different 3 piece set from OTC that are made of metal and would probably last a lifetime. Those two sets sell for anywhere between $30.00 and $40.00 and look like this:


Craftsman makes a set that is made out of orange plastic that are quite cheap (around $12.00) that work really well. I picked up four sets from a surplus store for around $2 a set and I've used them on quite a few caliper swaps and they worked perfectly.


One thing though, I would NOT recommend using hose pinch pliers or vice grips if you have stainless steel brake lines as it may damage or kink the outer sheath. For those, I would just quickly put a vacuum cap over the end and call it good enough.

Good tip. Thanks for posting.

Great write up.
Just in time before I do my own TBU.

Been wanting to get this done myself for a while now, just wasnt fully sure on exact part numbers. Great write up as well!

Nice Job, always had this mod in the back of my head. Bookmarked/subscribed.

Thanks!

Subscribed.

Got all my parts in for the swap.

-13wl calipers
-oem tundra rotors
-oem tundra pads
-wheeler's stainless steel front brake lines
-brake fluid

So I just finished the tundra brake upgrade on my 4runner using the parts above.

Did anyone notice a more spongy feeling brake pedal after the swap? It seems like the pedal needs more more motion to get the same amount of brake force. I bled the brakes the old school way and kept doing it until no bubbles came out. I also have stainless steel lines in the front which should only help. I'm thinking about trying to bleed again, but aside from that I can't think of any other potential causes of this problem. Any ideas?

I notice that I now have a little more pedal travel before the brakes grab than I did w/the stock setup, but when they grab, they are much stronger.

The 13WL caliper has a larger fluid capacity (it holds more fluid within the caliper) than a stock caliper, or even a 13WE 199mm caliper. When you press the brake pedal, you have to depress it further because you have to move more fluid through the lines to achieve the same degree of movement in the caliper/pistons. Your pedal is going to feel different initially, but once the pads contact the rotor and the brakes grab, it should feel just as firm as it did stock. The difference is that you won't reach that firm feeling in the pedal at the same pedal height.

Now if you get to where the brakes have grabbed, and the pedal still feels spongy, then you may still have some air in the lines. Remember, you can't compress a fluid, so if fluid is all you've got in the lines, you shouldn't have a spongy pedal.