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Old 12-01-2011, 01:56 AM #61
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BigFishAllDay View Post
I notice that I now have a little more pedal travel before the brakes grab than I did w/the stock setup, but when they grab, they are much stronger.

The 13WL caliper has a larger fluid capacity (it holds more fluid within the caliper) than a stock caliper, or even a 13WE 199mm caliper. When you press the brake pedal, you have to depress it further because you have to move more fluid through the lines to achieve the same degree of movement in the caliper/pistons. Your pedal is going to feel different initially, but once the pads contact the rotor and the brakes grab, it should feel just as firm as it did stock. The difference is that you won't reach that firm feeling in the pedal at the same pedal height.

Now if you get to where the brakes have grabbed, and the pedal still feels spongy, then you may still have some air in the lines. Remember, you can't compress a fluid, so if fluid is all you've got in the lines, you shouldn't have a spongy pedal.
True. I think I will try re-bleeding it just to double-check, but otherwise it might just take getting used to.
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Old 12-18-2011, 07:02 AM #62
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Does anyone know what the stock rotor size is on our 3rd gens? I only want to go up to 199mm TBU because I do not want to cut or grind anything and I don't want to worry about my spare tire. I have the stock 3 spokes and tires and do not plan on going larger. I don't need to tow anything but I will sometimes car pool and have 4 or 5 people in the Runner so somewhat larger calipers will help out.
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Old 12-20-2011, 08:09 PM #63
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I'm in the process of doing this upgrade as we speak. After running into a few snags I'm at a resting point (aka. Napa sold me a caliper with a cross threaded brake line inlet). Also, anyone find that their new pads on the outside are touching the rotor? When I spin the wheel (slowly) I noticed the outer pad slightly touching the rotor. Any suggestions?
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Old 12-21-2011, 01:23 AM #64
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MAD 69 View Post
Does anyone know what the stock rotor size is on our 3rd gens? I only want to go up to 199mm TBU because I do not want to cut or grind anything and I don't want to worry about my spare tire. I have the stock 3 spokes and tires and do not plan on going larger. I don't need to tow anything but I will sometimes car pool and have 4 or 5 people in the Runner so somewhat larger calipers will help out.
I'm not exactly sure what the diameter of the stock rotors is, but the Tundra rotor has the exact same diameter, as seen in the picture below. The main difference between the stock rotor and the Tundra rotor is that the braking surfaces of the Tundra rotors are much thicker.

The 199mm TBU and 231mm TBU use the SAME ROTORS. The only difference between the two mods is the caliper. The "MM" rating (ie 199 vs 231) refers to the size of the BRAKE PAD that the calipers use, and has nothing to do w/the rotor.

Re-read the thread... take your time. You will learn a few things.

Tundra rotor (right) VS. Stock 4Runner Rotor (left)



Quote:
Originally Posted by Triumphdog View Post
I'm in the process of doing this upgrade as we speak. After running into a few snags I'm at a resting point (aka. Napa sold me a caliper with a cross threaded brake line inlet). Also, anyone find that their new pads on the outside are touching the rotor? When I spin the wheel (slowly) I noticed the outer pad slightly touching the rotor. Any suggestions?
If the pads are touching the rotor a little bit before you have lowered the truck, put the wheels on, tightened the lugs, and seated the pads.... don't worry.

One of two things things could be happening... 1. the pads may not be completely and evenly seated in the caliper, or 2. the rotor may not be completely and evenly seated on the hub. Once you've got it fully installed, take a drive and use the brakes, then jack up the side that's making noise until the tire is off the ground and give it a spin. If the pad is still rubbing the rotor without the brakes applied, the pistons in the caliper may be dragging a little, resulting in the pads not disengaging from the rotors.
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Last edited by BigFishAllDay; 12-21-2011 at 10:56 PM. Reason: Clarification...
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Old 12-21-2011, 05:42 PM #65
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thanks BFAD
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Old 01-16-2012, 01:28 AM #66
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Talking

NICE POST!

ive just ordered all the goodies to do my brakes also,

i got the 16" weld sidewinders, will let yall know if these rims are 231 friendly.

cant wait for it to come in
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Old 01-24-2012, 12:05 PM #67
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From looking on Toyodiy.com, it appears the 13WL calipers may have been used on Sequoia's as well, has anyone confirmed this? There's an '06 Sequoia at a local wrecker, and it's damn cold out, so I don't want to waste my time and freeze my fingers if they aren't the right ones, hoping someone knew for sure.
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Old 01-25-2012, 12:57 AM #68
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Ian, that's a good question, but I'm not sure of the answer. Anyone else?

The stamping on the caliper is visible without even having to take the wheel off. Just go stick your head under the truck, have a look, and let us know.

Worst case scenario, they use the 13WG instead, which would probably work too. (See page 1 for a picture of the 13WG and a comparison of it VS. the 13WL)
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My Write ups: T-Case Leak? - 231mm TBU - Rear Axle Seals - Trans. Cooler Install - Suped Up Air Comp - Big 3
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Old 01-27-2012, 03:55 PM #69
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I went down today and checked it out, 2006 Sequoia, 13WL calipers! So here's another source for guys looking for these. This wasn't at a public wrecker, so I have to wait till they process the vehicle, but I'm gonna grab these for sure.
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Old 01-27-2012, 04:22 PM #70
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I must have missed this earlier, but I grabbed mine off a Sequoia 06. 13WL calipers. I think both the Tundra and Sequoia both got 13WL calipers for years 04-06.
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Old 01-29-2012, 02:17 AM #71
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yoo bigfish! i have 16" weld sidewinders, and they fit perfectly with the 231
just got it done today, took awhile being my first brake job but went smooothly thanks to the info provided. THANK YOU from the bottom of my heart
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Old 01-29-2012, 09:07 PM #72
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Dmart 808, thanks for the update on the wheels, I added them to the "DO FIT" list on page 1.
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2008 Sport Ed V6 Auto 4WD (< Click for Build) ....the Grocery Getter OEM+ build....
My Write ups: T-Case Leak? - 231mm TBU - Rear Axle Seals - Trans. Cooler Install - Suped Up Air Comp - Big 3
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Old 02-16-2012, 06:22 PM #73
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where are you guys buying OEM rotors and pads?

Thanks
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Old 02-27-2012, 03:04 PM #74
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Quote:
Originally Posted by heddleston View Post
Thanks for all the good info, you made it a breeze for me to buy the parts and swap everything out! Brakes are much more powerful, even with a TJM T-15 and winch on the front I can lock the brakes on pavement.

I did have a little rubbing on the outside of the caliper against the rim but it was solved by grinding the caliper just a little. I have the stock SR5 rims on a 99. Everything else was very straightforward. Thank you again for posting all of your findings!
Did your 99 have the 15" Ecko wheels on it? I replaced my stock 15 inch weels with pro comp 8069 15x8 with 3.75" back spacing. I am guessing that my wheels wont fit over the calipers.
Any one know if the 99 SR5 came with smaller brakes than other 4runners since they came with optional 15"wheels?
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Old 03-04-2012, 05:23 PM #75
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Has anyone done this upgrade on a 2002 with stock "flower" wheels? If so, do the stock wheels clear the upgrade? I am about to order the parts, and I just wanted to double check.


****Found out from another site that they will fit with no issues.****

Last edited by 4eyes; 03-05-2012 at 12:35 PM. Reason: found the info I needed
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