08-04-2011, 10:12 PM
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#1
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Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Birmingham Alabama
Posts: 57
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Member
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Birmingham Alabama
Posts: 57
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anyone want to rent me the timing belt tool?
looking for someone willing to rent me the snap-on timing belt tool used to compress the belt tensioner for changing the timing belt.
thanks
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08-04-2011, 10:23 PM
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#2
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Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Phoenix
Posts: 151
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Join Date: Feb 2011
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Honestly I would replace the tensioner if you doing all that work anyhow. There not to expensive. If you reallt want to re use it i would just compress it in a vice.
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08-04-2011, 10:43 PM
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#3
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I have one I ended up not using because I replaced the tensioner, but I'm using it to help rebuild a door frame--it comes in handy for other things.
You might point out WHERE you are, might make it easier.
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'99 4Runner SR5 5spd 3.4L V6 4WD(U.S), original '99 Talls in front, OME 906s in back, Hella fogs, Trekmaster shocks in front, Billy in back, no running boards, FIAMM horns, Alpine sound, Michelin LTX M/S2's, owned since new.
'97 HiLux SW4 5spd 4WD(Japan model bought in Brazil assembled in Argentina, very close to a 3.0 4Runner/Surf)
'71 FordWillys Jeep CJ5 (with straight six Ford Maverick 3.0 liter engine--lives in the mountains north of Sao Paulo Brazil)
My Backyard Frame Swap
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08-04-2011, 10:57 PM
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#4
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Join Date: May 2011
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Durk,
I almost had to ask how but then I am guessing it is being used to get the door frame (jamb and all) level against the rough framing of the house to insert some shims. Or am I wrong here.
To the OP, I'd just replace the tensioner and call it a day. My friend may have a new one in his garage if you want one cheap IF he still has it.
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08-05-2011, 02:38 AM
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#5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LittleCaesar
Durk,
I almost had to ask how but then I am guessing it is being used to get the door frame (jamb and all) level against the rough framing of the house to insert some shims. Or am I wrong here.
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Very close! Actually the door is fine, but pieces of the adjacent framing need to be replaced where water got in. The little tool put the door and jamb back to plumb, pushing on the jamb and the nearby vertical of the sidelight, while I put the new pieces in between. It's a 40-inch 1937 vintage full glass door, and weighs as much a VW Bug. I really had nothing else that would do that, as the space is quite narrow.
1937 doors don't have shims, those old boys hung them in place and did it right.
__________________
'99 4Runner SR5 5spd 3.4L V6 4WD(U.S), original '99 Talls in front, OME 906s in back, Hella fogs, Trekmaster shocks in front, Billy in back, no running boards, FIAMM horns, Alpine sound, Michelin LTX M/S2's, owned since new.
'97 HiLux SW4 5spd 4WD(Japan model bought in Brazil assembled in Argentina, very close to a 3.0 4Runner/Surf)
'71 FordWillys Jeep CJ5 (with straight six Ford Maverick 3.0 liter engine--lives in the mountains north of Sao Paulo Brazil)
My Backyard Frame Swap
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08-05-2011, 12:05 PM
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#6
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Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Birmingham Alabama
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Member
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I am located in Birmingham Alabama
Thanks guys
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08-05-2011, 04:32 PM
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#7
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Durk,
There is nothing better than old solid glass. I lived in an apartment in college in a building last renovated in the 1930s. Glass, stained and all, was great to look at; the cold drafts in winter due to the drying of the 60 year old glazing around the windows was a different story. I am sure the lead paint wasn't good for me either. I love the ingenuity with the tool.
Turkeyman,
Good luck with the install. Since I have yet to change my TB, I don't have any direct input, but I would change the tensioner out. Just my 2 cents. Durk may have a better reason(s) for why he chose to change out the tensioner.
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08-05-2011, 07:45 PM
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#8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LittleCaesar
Good luck with the install. Since I have yet to change my TB, I don't have any direct input, but I would change the tensioner out. Just my 2 cents. Durk may have a better reason(s) for why he chose to change out the tensioner.
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I chose to run my TB at 120K change interval instead of 90k. But the flipside is I decided to do everything. 240K on the tensioner seemed like a lot. I didn't want to go in there again until 2020.
__________________
'99 4Runner SR5 5spd 3.4L V6 4WD(U.S), original '99 Talls in front, OME 906s in back, Hella fogs, Trekmaster shocks in front, Billy in back, no running boards, FIAMM horns, Alpine sound, Michelin LTX M/S2's, owned since new.
'97 HiLux SW4 5spd 4WD(Japan model bought in Brazil assembled in Argentina, very close to a 3.0 4Runner/Surf)
'71 FordWillys Jeep CJ5 (with straight six Ford Maverick 3.0 liter engine--lives in the mountains north of Sao Paulo Brazil)
My Backyard Frame Swap
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08-06-2011, 03:00 AM
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#9
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Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Spokane, WA
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I just used a vice to compress the tensioner when I did my timing belt. I didn't have any problems with it. Just make sure the pin you use to hold the tension can be pulled out when the tensioner is bolted up. I put the allen wrench I used in the wrong way so it couldn't be removed when the tensioner was installed. I just had to re-compress the tensioner and put the allen wrench in the other way, but it's something to keep in mind.
I didn't get a new tensioner because I was doing mine on the cheap, but the way I see it is the engine is non-interference so there isn't much to worry about if it actually fails. A new tensioner is insurance but I didn't think it was necessary.
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97 SR5 5 speed, 285/75/16 Duratracs, adjustable 3" Toytec coilovers, 8 wrap LC coils and 5125 Bilstein shocks, Addicted Offroad bumper, M8000 winch, Addicted Offroad rock sliders
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08-08-2011, 12:45 AM
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#10
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Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: Vancouver,WA
Age: 41
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I ended up having to compress a brand new tensioner using my hydraulic floor jack and the frame of my 4runner. It worked well
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