03-06-2021, 09:36 PM
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#121
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JoeT4R
Would you be kind enough to send me a photo of said hose? Either here or a direct message? It would be much appreciated, sir!
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You can buy just the hose.
Amazon.com: 12" Flexible Grease Hose by Cal-Hawk: Home Improvement
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'99 4Runner SR5 5spd 3.4L V6 4WD(U.S), original '99 Talls in front, OME 906s in back, Hella fogs, Trekmaster shocks in front, Billy in back, no running boards, FIAMM horns, Alpine sound, Michelin LTX M/S2's, owned since new.
'97 HiLux SW4 5spd 4WD(Japan model bought in Brazil assembled in Argentina, very close to a 3.0 4Runner/Surf)
'71 FordWillys Jeep CJ5 (with straight six Ford Maverick 3.0 liter engine--lives in the mountains north of Sao Paulo Brazil)
My Backyard Frame Swap
Last edited by TheDurk; 03-06-2021 at 09:50 PM.
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03-06-2021, 10:34 PM
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#122
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@ TheDurk
So I have a hose, it’s that the coupler won’t fit in where the zerk is due to the u-joint. I’ll attach a photo for reference
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03-06-2021, 11:04 PM
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#123
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JoeT4R
@ TheDurk
So I have a hose, it’s that the coupler won’t fit in where the zerk is due to the u-joint. I’ll attach a photo for reference |
Put a wrench on the base of the zerk and rotate it 90* so you can reach it.
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03-06-2021, 11:48 PM
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#124
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JZiggy
Put a wrench on the base of the zerk and rotate it 90* so you can reach it.
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Yeah, the one in the pic is off. I think 45° will do it.
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'99 4Runner SR5 5spd 3.4L V6 4WD(U.S), original '99 Talls in front, OME 906s in back, Hella fogs, Trekmaster shocks in front, Billy in back, no running boards, FIAMM horns, Alpine sound, Michelin LTX M/S2's, owned since new.
'97 HiLux SW4 5spd 4WD(Japan model bought in Brazil assembled in Argentina, very close to a 3.0 4Runner/Surf)
'71 FordWillys Jeep CJ5 (with straight six Ford Maverick 3.0 liter engine--lives in the mountains north of Sao Paulo Brazil)
My Backyard Frame Swap
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03-07-2021, 05:12 AM
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#125
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I can hit all my zerks with my Lincoln grease guns. One has a flex hose and one is solid. They both fit. I just spin the shaft so the zerk is around 4 o clock on the drives side.
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03-07-2021, 08:34 AM
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#126
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JZiggy
Put a wrench on the base of the zerk and rotate it 90* so you can reach it.
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I tried doing that yesterday and it wouldn’t rotate for me. I had a solid connection with the wrench on it but it would just slide off. I don’t want to risk rounding it off, either. The issue seems to be that the zerk head is facing inward, like towards the slip joint itself, not away from it. If it would just rotate I would be perfect! It’s so frustrating because of how much room there is, if only it would rotate I could attach the coupler to the zerk and get it filled with grease. Does anyone else have any suggestions? I appreciate all the feedback so far, guys
Last edited by JoeT4R; 03-07-2021 at 08:58 AM.
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03-07-2021, 12:43 PM
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#127
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Update: just received the 90 degree coupler attachment, and it does not fit. I feel like I’m screwed at this point :’(
Upon further inspection of the zerk itself, it looks like it’s really well seated in there, so idk if it has the capabilities of turning or not. Would PB blaster maybe help? Maybe using line wrenches? This seems to be what it is that I’m working with (see photos) 
Last edited by JoeT4R; 03-07-2021 at 01:10 PM.
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03-07-2021, 01:12 PM
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#128
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Unbolt that flange so you can turn the joint enough to reach the fitting?
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03-07-2021, 01:16 PM
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#129
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Quote:
Originally Posted by heat
Unbolt that flange so you can turn the joint enough to reach the fitting?
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I think that’s what I am gonna have to end up doing. Kinda nervous about that seeing as I haven’t ever done that before. Fingers crossed it goes well. I just watched a video on it and it seems straightforward I think
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03-07-2021, 02:51 PM
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#130
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JoeT4R
I think that’s what I am gonna have to end up doing. Kinda nervous about that seeing as I haven’t ever done that before. Fingers crossed it goes well. I just watched a video on it and it seems straightforward I think
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I’ve been able to spin the front driveshaft to get the angles and clearance for my Lincon grease guns.
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03-07-2021, 02:54 PM
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#131
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 19963.4lsr5
I’ve been able to spin the front driveshaft to get the angles and clearance for my Lincon grease guns.
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For this particular zerk, it’s not the position of the driveshaft so much as it is the position of the zerk head itself. I wish it were facing out towards the open area so I could just slide my coupler right into the zerk head
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03-07-2021, 06:26 PM
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#132
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JoeT4R
For this particular zerk, it’s not the position of the driveshaft so much as it is the position of the zerk head itself. I wish it were facing out towards the open area so I could just slide my coupler right into the zerk head
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Someone must have moved the factory zerk then.
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03-07-2021, 06:59 PM
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#133
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 19963.4lsr5
Someone must have moved the factory zerk then.
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Makes me wonder. That’s frustrating as hell though. My plan is to unbolt the slip yoke from the flange this week and try holding it in place, but moving it out far enough for me to manipulate the joint in order to get the grease gun coupler attached to it. Fingers crossed. I watched a video earlier and it doesn’t seem horrible (knock on wood)
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03-08-2021, 02:20 AM
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#134
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I just greased both shafts and used Lucas red and tacky for everything for what it’s worth. All the zerks were accessible for a normal grease gun if you turn the driveshafts, though a few were a pretty tight fit. Dunno why someone would install different zero fittings.
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03-08-2021, 10:39 AM
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#135
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JoeT4R
I tried doing that yesterday and it wouldn’t rotate for me. I had a solid connection with the wrench on it but it would just slide off. I don’t want to risk rounding it off, either. The issue seems to be that the zerk head is facing inward, like towards the slip joint itself, not away from it. If it would just rotate I would be perfect! It’s so frustrating because of how much room there is, if only it would rotate I could attach the coupler to the zerk and get it filled with grease. Does anyone else have any suggestions? I appreciate all the feedback so far, guys
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I expect the u-joint has an M6-1.0 threaded hole and is not a press-fit like you have shown. Try some penetrant and see if you can get it to turn a bit.
Another alternative is to see if you can unthread the little zerk end out of the body that is threaded unto the u-joint. Usually the zerk is also an M6-1.0. If you can get it out try threading in a 90* zerk like this in its place:
It's possible the extra weight could cause a vibe (though I doubt it) so you could put the old zerk back after greasing.
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