Climb under your truck... it'll all be there for viewing. You'll need a grease gun (or two) with the right grease. Front driveshaft should spin easily by hand as long as you aren't in 4WD. Rear driveshaft will need one rear tire lifted and the e-brake off and trans in neutral (chock the wheels!) to spin. Pump some grease until good grease starts coming out, other than on the slip joints where you should just do a couple pumps.

Its easier than an oil change...

-Charlie

Poking around my Factory manual... nothing for 2WD? in fact... I've never noticed zerk fittings...

Anyone have the factory manual page for 2wd?

Thanks

Factory 2WD u-joints are sealed. No grease zerks...

-Charlie

Hey all, so if someone can give me some wisdom, just greased my driveshaft, and when done and driving it smells burnt underneath my rig, is this normal ?

The spinning driveshaft does splatter grease all around once you start driving, perhaps some of it got onto the exhaust/muffler and is cooking . Does it smell like Chinese food? McDonalds? Seriousness aside, if it doesn't go away soon, maybe have another look underneath.

HAHA Yeah that’s makes some sense! Thanks man much appreciated

Really good information here! I had a really bad "bump" every time I left off my brakes. After greasing my driveshaft (took a few times) it's totally gone. Finally figured out it was the driveshaft binding up when coming to a stop and then unloading when letting off.

Planning on doing my own lube job. It will be my first opportunity on this vehicle. Are the lube points on both the front and rear drive line the only lube points on the entire chassis Aren't there some for the suspension? If so, is there a listing/diagram of those zirk points as well?
TIA

Read post # 104, follow that Exactly.

No more lubing required other than the ignition switch, hood latch, door locks and hinges.

Luck and enjoy the runner.

Greased the 8 zerk fittings on the drive shaft and my transmission clunk is gone!!! I can't believe after 18 years of owning this car the low speed transmission clunk is finally solved. My own fault for not greasing the zerks for 18 years.

This just goes to show that the dealerships really have no clue or just don't care unless they can make an easy buck. I brought this car to the dealership back in 2002-3 while the car was still under warranty to complain about the clunk thinking it was the transmission. They said it was perfectly normal.

They suck...you all rule!!! Thank you Brian for sharing the link to this thread and thank you Nelsonmd for some priceless info!

I do have a confession to make though... I didn't use moly grease. I already had Calcium Sulfonate grease in my gun, so I just used it. I hope this doesn't destroy the joints. It is also rated NLGI GC-LB #2. I've used it for years in my boat trailer axle hubs. I guess this will be an experiment.

Same here......well.....uhh........340k and mine AREN"T perfect, but not any worse than they were years ago when i bought it.

Did you figure out how much #6 takes? On #4 & #5 I just pumped till I seen grease coming out around the joints, but number #6 I pumped about 6 times and didn't see or felt any resistance on the grease gun. No signs of grease around the coupler and stopped because I didn't want to put to much grease in if thats a thing for this joint.

#2 and #7 I only did 3 pumps, but I sure would like to know for next time how much grease is in there so i don't over do it next time.

Anyone else please chime in if you have any answers. Thanks.

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Can someone for the love of all things good please tell me how to grease #8? I cannot fit my standard coupler in there and bend it in order for it to attach to the zerk. I tried using an open ended wrench to turn it, but that didn’t work. I purchased a 90 degree coupler attachment but it won’t arrive until tomorrow. Send help!

I had to buy a gun with a hose on the end to do that one.

Would you be kind enough to send me a photo of said hose? Mine has a hose attachment but I can’t fit the coupler in there where the u-joint is.