I just performed this on my 2004 SR5 over the weekend, and I can assure you that this is in fact not true. I was hammering this thing home, using a very large socket, thinking it was going to bottom out on a lip of some sort, but that never happened. I was way past the original seal location and had to pry the brand new seal back out some in order to seat it in its originally intended location.

So, if you are installing new seals, check your position before and after, and several times during the process, to ensure proper placement.

Also, even if you have drained the fluid from the differential, get out from under the axle when you pry the seal out because it is still holding back quite a bit of fluid that will in fact cover your face as soon as the seal clears the housing. Trust me.

Great write up "settytb".
My only detraction from your write up was the removal of the brake caliper. I always worry about brake line tension and with only two bolts easing this concern, it was an easy decision. Thanks

I know this is a really old thread but you still looking for old stock axles. I'm about to yank mine from my 99 4runner and replace them with new ones if you're interested.

I know this is a little old, but just a heads-up: I was following this earlier today and I think the part I quoted here is incorrect. Other write-ups state that the clip opening should be facing down, rather than up. The factory service manual says this as well. I was unable to get my new CV axle in until I rotated the clip opening to face down, then it popped right in.

Otherwise, thanks for a great write-up. It saved me a lot of time on the other steps, since I did not have to take as much apart as I initially had thought.

Thanks for the heads up on that. I read from a couple different places that they recommended opening up. But I'm glad you confirmed and cleared that up.

-Seth

hi there,
i recently did both my axles using rebuilt units. the driver side is fine. the passenger side has been leaking slowly since replacement. i replaced the seal once, still leaking. did it a second time with a Toyota OEM, worked for one week now it's leaking like before ARGH! anyone had this happen? is it possible the axle diameter is off just enough to not make a good seal? i'm running out of possibilities and don't want to take it to a shop since it's such an easy job. any ideas out there?
thanks in advance,
Scott

@DuvallRunner , There is a pretty good possibility its the shaft. I recently replaced mine with a couple of remanned ones and had the same problem on the passenger side after 2 seals I pulled it out and checked the part the seal rides on and compared to the old one. There was no line where the seal left a mark like the original one so I exchanged it for another remanned one and sure enough it had the wear mark from the seal so I think the first one had been machined just enough so it wouldn't make a good seal. Hope this helps.

The damn cv axles have been my nemesis the last few days. I can get it in and out now very quick, and I have learned the rebooting process well, however I have no faith in the special metal bands. Anyway. My problem now is the axle seal. I have a brand new one, but I am not 100 percent on its orientation.

Which side goes in first? The flat side or the side with the thin flap on it?

So yeah, I'll just put it out there, I have googled the crap out of this, and I have come across a few pictures and mentions of how to seat this but I'm still just wanting to confirm all of this before I tear down and re install.

Anybody?

The flat side goes to the inside. The outside doesn't really give you much area to push on and that's probably why they have a Special Service Tool (SST). I made my own SST by turning down a PVC coupler... the inside diameter fit nicely around the part of the seal that sticks out, but the coupler was too thick to fit inside the diff housing as I pushed the seal in. I spent a lot of time tapping and checking to make sure it was going in evenly. Just tapped it in until I was certain it sat against the lip in the diff.

If I remember correctly, you can see the metal part of the seal on that flat side.

Ahhh. Thank you thank you. I bought a new seal but put the old one in last time to get a feel for how to press it in by hand. Turns out I put it in backwards. I may put the old on in the right way now and just test it.

It slid right in backwards, I'm assuming the new one would be tougher to put in?

Anyway, this whole problem started because I thought the seal was stuck in there and was supposed to have come off with the axle. Even though it didn't when I did the cv axle the first time. Got cocky and thought I knew more than I did. Thanks man, let me know any other pointers you have. There are a lot of cv axle threads out there!

Also, I've read that the seal can be put in too far, is that just third gen or is that true. If so, how does it seal without pressure?

Yep, got this all done today. Axle out and seal flipped and back together in under an hour.

Now when looking at the seal and the axle, it's obvious how it seals. I feel like an idiot.

Oh well, learned something again.

Learning is the best part of projects like this! Congrats!

Yeah. Just gotta slow down. Now to research changing the fluids and buy an extra drain plug in advance!

Sub'd for future reference.
(#cvaxle)