Day late and a dollar short lol. Jk thanks but I just got an 8lb sledge and a piece of 4x4, sprayed it with WD-40 and she was a one hitter quitter after that.


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Did an inner reboot. Used SDHQ boots.
Used a sledge and a ball peen to pop the axle out of the hub. Turn the steering wheel to the side you’re working on, that lets the spindle swing up enuf to slide the tri-lobe out of the tulip. My inners were torn, so I just cut them at the biggest groove. Axle now out of truck, the tri-lobe came of easy with the snap ring pliers. Slid the new boot on, put the tri-lobe back on. Lotsa grease, put it back in the truck. Hose clamped the boots onto the tulip.
So far so good.

Tried to replace the cv axle on my 2nd gen today but I got stuck getting the nuts off the back of the axle that connects it to the diff. Even tried heating them up with a torch but still couldn't get them off. Unless anyone has a better idea I'm going to take an angle grinder to them and cut them off and just replace the bolts.


Any ideas?

Can I get a pic or a better description of these nuts? Bc there are no nuts that attach the CV to the diff

Uhhhhh, yeah.....should NOT have to do that.

Had my CV boots done by a local mechanic 3 years ago. My driver side had torn, and I just got both done because I figured the other was close behind it. Yesterday I put on new coils/shocks and noticed grease/dirt on one side of my LCA on the driver side (in addition to my LCA on the driver side rotating all the way down with no effort, which I assume means my bushings are worn/dead).

The grease was not fresh at all, and there was no leaking on the axle or signs of fresh grease on the axle. Could this just be old grease from my boot tear years ago that the shop didn't clean off? Is there a way to check the grease levels inside of the boot, or can I loosen the clamp and pump some more grease in there to see if there is a leak that I'm missing? I haven't noticed any problems in 4wd, no clunking, no loss of power, nothing.

Old grease on LCA - Album on Imgur

I swapped out a new CV axletwo weeks ago but pushed the seal too far in and now i need to redo the seal. Gonna take me a couple hours to redo this. Do not push the seal on the opposite side of the wheel in too far or it will leak.

The boot of my CV axle was ripped as well but learned replacing the whole CV axle would be easier and cleaner than trying to put a new boot on. Also putting on a new CV axle gives you that piece of mind that it is a new part that shouldn't break anytime soon.

Thanks for a great write up. I will be tackling this tomorrow myself.

Anyone find these seals anywhere?


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They look to be in stock now. Did you try to buy them from AVX?

Looked around couldn't find them


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FYI, make sure you test the clamps on the boots before install. You should not be able to move them by hand. If it does move, grease will blow out the boot and you'll have a nice mess to deal with.

to all of you for the info in this thread. Just did my original CVs (173k miles, whoop!) since they recently tore. The inner part was a mother to get out - sweat and swear for 2 hrs before I caved and rented a slide hammer with hose clamp trick. Then 4 taps. FML anyways.

Think I noticed a few other things. My UBJ and LBJ are both not firm (upper ripped) and my tie rod end is ripped. I don't think they've ever been replaced. I know 4th gens don't have the catastrophic failures that the priors did when the LBJs fail, but am I an idiot for driving on these while I wait for replacements? It's my DD and I don't really want to bike 15 miles to work in 90s+humidity.

LBJ:


UBJ:


Tie rod:

It’s not as hard as it sounds right? Getting that axle out has never really given me trouble. The last time I swapped one getting it back in is what gave me grief. I think you should be ok while you replace that stuff, as you have likely been driving on it that way anyway. However I would make it a priority.


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