@bob3dsf , can you comment on the part number for that reman OE axle from Fred Anderson Toyota? I didn't see a reman listed.

Thanks !

Roger that. Thx.

As a matter of fact I can. Don't know why they don't list the reman's online. My printout from the parts dept. says the P/N is: 00016-A5235 Reman Drive axle.

But first, I had just called them and asked about the prices. I looked on their online order site and they don't list the reman's. When I picked mine up, I asked the person at the counter if they could give me a better price. They said no because I already got the "online price." (?) The original quoted price was ~125 incl. the core refund so I got a good deal I think. Pretty much what Cygan1008 got.

It's a little late to tell you this now, but for others about to do this work, I'd seriously consider going with Timken for the knuckle seal as they're much less expensive and appear to be better quality than the OEM seals. After buying the overpriced OEM seal I ordered a National and a Timken from Rock Auto. National was the cheapest and looked exactly like the OEM seal, I think they both had 'National' stamped on them.

I have been all through this thread and was wondering where on cv axle to hit with pry bar and hammer to remove and install? between diff. housing and shaft? Or on notches in axle? I'm confused as to where to apply force to remove and install. All help is as always greatly appreciated!

Look at my pic in post #56. You're looking at the union where the axles joins the diff. Those notches on the inner axle housing is where you hit with hammer and prybar or chisel (or slide hammer if you have one with a hook attachment).

I recommend against using a "wonder bar." That all I had, it worked but I really had to bash it. I think it's not solid enough to transfer the energy of the strike. A big pry bar or chisel ought to work more effectively as others have mentioned.

Thanks for the reply! I got the axles out with your recommended tools but I just can't seem to get the darn things in? I tried the clip up and then down and still fighting with getting it to work. I inspected old shaft to new shaft before even trying install as readers have said and the are the same. Only thing is that they are autozone rebuilds. Can't seem to get anything new here in the 4th largest American city (Houston) what a shame.

Are you able to get them started? I had to hammer mine pretty hard to get it all the way seated. I used a 1/2" steel rod with a small plate welded to the end and used a large band clamp to hold it in place while I whacked the end with a 5 lb. hammer. FWIW I installed mine with the clip opening facing down.

wow! you may need to pass that special tool around after seeing axles pull three or five times. They seem to start but I guess I am not using enough force. can't seem to hold in place and strike with hammer.

Did you put some lube on the spline end and the clip itself?

Here's what I used. I didn't have anything handy for a slide weight, I just made a ramp at the end to whack with a hammer when pulling out the axle. A slide would have been better. The white thing in the photo is a 2" PVC coupler with cap, used to install the driver's side oil seal.

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The cvs should slide into the shaft until the clip
Make sure splines line up
Push it in and then use the chisel and give it a good wack
Also as said above
Use some grease in splines and clip

Slick tool! I got a 1" x 12" cold chisel to use on my pass. side whenever I can get to it. I'm hoping the metal of the inner axle housing is harder than the chisel. Don't want to chip/cut anything with the chisel.

Make sure you hold inward pressure on your tool during install. I was using a stanley wonder bar, not very dense (I guess), I had to ensure it wasn't bouncing off the axle between hammer strikes. I had to give it 4-5 good, hard, rapid hits to get that clip to pop in. This is vs. slow hard hits with a "wind-up." And, I was directly under it lying perpendicular to the truck (or in-line with the axles) and hitting on the notch facing directly down. That gave me the most room to really get the tool seated well and room to strike. I'm sure this is where a helper using a tool to push inward from another position can help a lot.

Went to Lowes and also found a 2" PVC cap fits perfectly around the hole in the axle seal and sits nicely on the flange for use as a seal driver. It fits both seals, The only difference is the width of the outer flanges

I've read a few other places that on the 4th gen, the clip on the end of the shaft has to be facing down. The confusion comes from a write up on 4x4wire mentioning it facing up, but that was for a 3rd gen IIRC...

Anybody have a good DIY seal driver to fit the knuckle seals? I didn't replace my drivers side, it didn't get damaged when I removed the axle, but I have 'em in case it happens. Still trying to come up with a suitable method to install one if I need to on my other axle.

For the knuckle seal use a piece of 2x4
Its what i use
That will save your wheel bearings from crapping out
So many people do not do that seal and end up replacing the bearing allot sooner then they expected too

Noob question, am I supposed to grease #2 side?

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