Updated. Sorry, too big to upload on the site.

Looks good! Assuming you fabricated new mounting brackets for it? Did you re-use the original hoses going to the stock cooler?

I'm planning on doing similar and now just might use the same cooler. Re-purpose the OEM trans cooler to a power steering cooler.

06 Sport v6. - switch to 4wd hi and the 4x4 lights flash and nothing happens. I think it's stuck in 4wd? Can shift to 4 lo and get the beep. When I turn it jumps so i'm assuming it's stuck in 4wd? Also the VSC light is on now.

when I switch back to 4hi light still flash. When I switch to 2wd lights stay on. When I turn hard it jumps like the rear diff is locked? Is that possible?

And the VSC stays on too.

Any suggestions? I don't want to take to dealer if I don't have too. thanks

Have someone sit in the car in neutral with the switch on 4Hi. Tap from underneath with a dead blow hammer. See if anything happens. Move switch back and forth a few times as you tap on each setting. Good luck.


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I did reuse the factory lines. The bottom one (inlet) is a teeeeny bit short, but still hitting all the barbs of the fitting.

Had to bend the horn brackets up, and it sits just between the a/c and oil cooler lines. The driver side of it is angled slightly forward to help it fit, also. I just took regular flat stock and made brackets. Pretty? No. OEM looking? Notta. But, cheap, strong and effective.

Of course I pumped 3qts of new Amsoil into it before I warmed it up to check the fluid level and dumped most of that right back out.. oh well.

My 06 is at 178k miles, Ive recently replaced front hubs/bearings, front calipers and rotors. Carfax shows my timing belt was done at 98K.. when do I need to start planning for another timing belt job? The dealer and car have been draining my wallet big time lately as both of my breakdowns- related to bearings and brakes- have happened while I was on the road and needed my car and didn't have another vehicle to use so I had to go to the dealer..
On the fence to just ditch the runner and get a low mile jeep TJ that's cheaper and easier to work on, to last me 1.5 more years of grad school

How did you get the temp readings for the transmission in Torque app?

Why would you use a dead blow? A dead blow is for moving things, a metal hammer can induce a lot more shock that will free up the mechanism.

Recommended interval for the timing belt is 95k. You can safely take that out to over 100k. Depending on how many miles you put on per year, that could be another year or more before you need to worry about doing the timing belt.

You should also learn to work on the vehicle yourself as much as possible. It will save you a ton of money in the long run.

- New Rotors, Front Brakes, Calipers
- New Hood-latch holder (I broke it )
- Finally got around to installing an iTrue Dash/Rear Cam.

I can do a lot on the vehicle but my apartment complex 1-doesnt have any flat parking spots to do anything with the wheels off the ground, and 2- my apartment complex fines people who do any work in their parking lots. I also have no mechanically inclined friends because apparently most people in pharmacy school have no desire to work with their hands
Brakes are also my Achilles heel. I could not bleed brakes to save my life no matter how many youtube videos I watch. Ive spent hours trying and used several bottles of brake fluid trying to bleed the brakes on my motorcycles to no avail

https://www.toyota-4runner.org/1760494-post22.html

That's what I used.

Replaced the engine and cabin air filters. Heater improved a ton!

Installed updated tail lights! Super easy and took maybe 10 minutes to swap out. 100% plug n play



For what it's worth, motorcycle brakes are a lot harder the bleed than car brakes.

I had mine done when purchased at 112k. The mechanic said it was way overdue and could have broken in the near future (I didn't really look at it). I got around to it again at 210k (98k interval) and tackled it myself. The belt itself was OK, needed replacing but didn't look like it was about to break, but the water pump seal had pretty much failed and was leaking quite a bit. (When done my coolant leak vanished )

You don't need a ton of space to do it, just a place to drain fluids and dispose of them, and a second person usually helps to remove the fan from the clutch (just needs to be a relatively strong person). Everything else is doable solo. If you have a buddy with a garage you could use for a weekend that'd work fine.

There is a good write up out there on a similar lexus V8 that showed me almost everything I needed to do. I made one mistake with sealing the water pump properly; the first shot took me about 20 hours with multiple parts stores runs; it ran but leaked about 2 cups of coolant over 100 miles. I re-did it in about 6 hours and it's been great, going on 15k pretty soon.

I paid $800 at a budget mechanic to do just the belt & water pump change the first time. I was quoted up to $1200 but that included cam & crank seals. I attempted those the second time but was unable to remove the crank gears, so I skipped them as none were leaking - I believe 05+ have more issues with crank seals, unfortunately.

My total costs were just under $400 the second time, and I bought the ~$70 crank holder tool and a $60 torque wrench (included in the $400). If you wanted to tackle it, don't hesitate to buy the crank holder (Schley sch64300). I bought a lot of coolant - in the future I'd probably test with water before filling up on coolant...

Also... Autozone free rentals are your friend.