I ordered 6 more kc cyclones for "rock lights". Since I have a Switchpros now, making the harness should be easy peasy.

Mounted ditch lights, Cali Raised LED light bar bracket and CB antenna. Ran out of daylight (and waiting on harness parts) to wire them, and need to mount CB.

Being dark (wasn't fun to do with dancing my flashlight around) I didn't get any pictures.

Changing up the wheel color again, back to the OG finish after a Citristrip soak

How hard was it to remove the color? Was that paint or some kind of dip?

Hopefully the picture uploaded....

I figured it out. Picture was too big

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It was Steel It stainless spray paint. Really no different than any other spray paint, I just liked the color. The key with Citristrip (found at Home Depot) is to lay it on THICK and cover it with plastic so it can't breathe and has to eat the paint. Took around 4 hours per wheel but very little cleanup afterwards with the pressure washer. Wish we could get the old Jasco that had methylene chloride in it, it would remove ANY paint in about 15min. But this Citristrip stuff has a nice orange smell to it, win some ya lose some.

Shinin! We’ll see how long this lasts haha

I installed a Bass control knob for my MTX TNP212D2 Subwoofer
Dual 12" sealed enclosure with 250-watt mono amplifier.

Reading on another thread I saw where someone else had done this mod to one of the blanks on the dash console - left of the steering wheel.

I installed it next to a switch I'm afraid to touch... AUTO LSD anyone?
I'm also afraid to press the PARTY MODE switch in my 5th Gen! hehe

The mod is rather simple... I removed some of the ABS plastic behind the blank. Drilled the proper sized hole. Removed the base knob from it's housing and flush mounted it behind the blank with the help of some superglue.

Easy to reach and looks like it came that way.
From Godsmack to Tupac... I'm ready to roll!

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Someone actually using their shelf! Knob relocation looks clean.

with that shelf, you can put 4 12s custom build box. but make sure you use some heavy duty velcro, or better yet, use some metal brackets, you don't want that flying during an accident.

Don't give me any ideas... hehe (Of course I'll have to look into that now)
I used heavy duty velcro to anchor the box down and this weekend I'll install some metal brackets along with:
Recoil 12-Inch High Excursion Black Steel Mesh Subwoofer Grilles
Amazon.com: Recoil 12-Inch High Excursion Black Steel Mesh Subwoofer Grille (12 inch) : Electronics

At the moment I'm working on the sound system in my 2011 SR5 - a tad trickier because of that PM crap Toyota went with. I finally got the rear speakers functioning by bypassing the blown hatch speakers. Debating on replacing them just or leaving them jumpered. A sub would make them indistinguishable and a waste of time and money to replace.

I gave up on rear speakers, we usually put a lot more money to the front, sound deadener on the doors, and nice multi-channel amp with power.
active setup.

Yeah, it was like chasing a ghost reading wiring diagrams for a couple of weeks trying to understand what the h*** they were thinking with that setup on the 2011 model. I'd get more sound from a tuna can than what was passed off as rear speakers. The hatch speakers, tho. I have some ideas for a stand-alone bluetooth setup for camping when the hatch is open more.

doing my suspension replacement and replacing all the boots on the axles, first my passenger axle was stuck, so i ordered the axle forks, they worked great. got as far as the control arms but all the cam bolts are frozen. so saw them off it is. got shitty blades this morning so only cut one bolt in like 30 mins of trying, so got carbines blades after i got out of work and in the morning back to take all the crap off. than its alot of energy bushings and order some new cam bolt time. do i just order two set of whichever brand from rockauto???

my drivers axle didn't have a circlip that retains it in place so it slide out easy. i also bent the shield on one of them is that replaceable?