On my 2008 T4R V8 Limited AWD, I replaced the Bank 1 Oxygen Sensor 1 after getting the P0031 code. Read up a bit on what others did and that helped. This sensor is located on the driver's side of the engine and is upstream of the catalytic converter right up close the engine itself making access very difficult.

I followed the plan someone else had laid out when they dis this same repair and was able to access it by jacking up the front end, removing the wheel, then disconnecting the sliding yoke on the steering shaft. (Be sure to match mark the yoke on both ends to ensure properly orientation during re-assembly) This was the most difficult step I encountered due to corrosion on the splined shaft. But after lots of B Blaster and heating it up with a small propane torch, I was finally able to break it loose so that I could slide the yoke up the shaft enough to separate the lower shaft from the upper. I did have to use a hammer and long punch to do get it to finally break loose.

Removing this steering shaft out of the way gave me direct line-of-sight to the sensor. I hit it with copious amounts of PB Blaster then worked on disconnecting the wire. I used a long Allen wrench to press the release tab on the connector and was finally able to disconnect it - that took a bit. Once that was loose, I used a 22-mm (7/8") O2 sensor offset socket and 3/8" ratchet with a long extension to brake it loose.

On the new sensor I applied anti-seize on its threads and installed it again using the sensor socket to tighten it. Reconnecting the plug was challenging mainly because I have big hands. But I was finally able to get it started, then used a long punch to seat it.

It took a bit to install the sliding yoke and align the two shafts. Before I did this, I cleaned the yoke and the splines on both shafts and applied some white lithium grease to all the mating surfaces. This helped tremendously.

After that, I replaced the wheel, tightened the lug nuts, dropped the vehicle back onto the ground and finally torqued the lug nuts to 83 ft-lbs.

I took it back to Advance Auto to return the sensor socket I had "rented" off them and asked to have them clear the code, since I bought the sensor from them and could easily prove that I had fixed the problem. They flat out refused to clear it. Oh well, when I started it up, the code was gone, or at least the CEL, VSC, and Traction lights did not come on. All's well that ends well. God is good!

I looked at those too. But the Boss & I have a black & white theme going on with this runner. It's MY truck but it's going to look the way SHE wants it to look. So black handles it is.

I ordered them from Amazon. Dorman brand. Fronts fit fine. Rears not so much. Got one stuck in the door & had to break it to get it out. Returned the other rear & ordered the correct part (my research not Amazon fit) only to have them refund because "no longer available". Finally found the correct ones at O'Reilly's. Part numbers are: Front 82498 & 82499. Can't remember which is left & right, but the left has the key hole. Rear is 93994 left or right. Those P/Ns are matte black. Also available in black paint to match version. Hope this is some help.

Diff and clamshell pulled yesterday. Packed and shipped today en route to ECGS for 4.56’s and an E-locker.

Rear pinion has a ton of play so it was finally time for a re gear.

I threw in a voltage booster for my Northstar AGM...Scangauge says I'm rocking 14.9v while driving and once running awhile, the charge drops a couple tenths...I have the same thing in my Tundra and it's a AGM life-saver!

Changed the T/case & rear diff fluid. No drama with the drain & fill plugs on these.

Installed Dobinson IMS shocks front and rear replacing Bils 4600. Reused the FJ springs I had, hoping for a little better ride on the street, we'll see. Initial impressions .. hard to tell much.

Fitted my hooky AliExpress TOYOTA grill. Bonnet catch release lever doesn't work now as the amount of movement in the mechanism has been reduced for some reason. "Solved" with a couple of cable ties for now.