09-19-2020, 04:40 PM
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#34636
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Member
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Join Date: Mar 2020
Location: Sacramento, CA
Posts: 348
Real Name: Joe
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Member
Join Date: Mar 2020
Location: Sacramento, CA
Posts: 348
Real Name: Joe
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Greased the drivetrain. First time doing this. I haven’t driven it a lot, but it seems to have eliminated the occasional rear “bump” in the driveline
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09-19-2020, 05:22 PM
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#34637
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Senior Member
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Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: Glendale, AZ
Posts: 1,032
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: Glendale, AZ
Posts: 1,032
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Polished Headlights
They were Not Horrible but it looks way better
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2003 V8 Limited 4x4 Black. JBA UCA's, TRD Pro Wheels. OEM LED Tails, 2012 FJ Springs F/R 5100's F/R 1.75 Cooper AT3 4S 265-70-17. Bye X Reas, Wet Okole Seat Covers Weathertech liners.
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09-20-2020, 04:55 AM
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#34638
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Member
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Join Date: Feb 2020
Location: Lake City,SC
Posts: 486
Real Name: Danny
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Member
Join Date: Feb 2020
Location: Lake City,SC
Posts: 486
Real Name: Danny
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Did this on Friday. Installed aftermarket spoiler. I've wanted a spoiler since I got the runner back in Feb. I had no idea you could get one so cheap. I used the method posted by Nahrah using 3M two sided tape and just the top two screws. Took about 1.5 - 2 hours working alone. [IMG][IMG] [/IMG][/IMG]
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09-20-2020, 07:58 PM
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#34639
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Member
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Join Date: Apr 2018
Location: Indiana
Posts: 77
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Member
Join Date: Apr 2018
Location: Indiana
Posts: 77
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a little halloween decoration
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09-20-2020, 08:07 PM
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#34640
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Member
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Join Date: Nov 2019
Location: Tucson, AZ
Posts: 816
Real Name: Todd
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Member
Join Date: Nov 2019
Location: Tucson, AZ
Posts: 816
Real Name: Todd
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Yesterday, I made a cradle for the FJ t-case in preparation for the swap next weekend. Sits great on the floor jack and won't fall off. Also fits the stock t-case.
Today, I started building my storage drawers.
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2003 4Runner Limited 4wd V8 - Build thread on Tacoma World
FJ tcase swap, VVT intake swap, Solid Offroad motor mounts, Doug Thorley y-pipe, Bold Performance cat-back, ADS shocks F&R, Metal Tech LTHD springs rear, 1" body lift, 285/75/17 Toyo R/T Trails on Sequoia rims, Coastal front bumper, CAD rear bumper
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09-20-2020, 10:26 PM
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#34641
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Junior Member
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Join Date: Feb 2020
Location: Oregon
Posts: 21
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Junior Member
Join Date: Feb 2020
Location: Oregon
Posts: 21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tironeous
Greased the drivetrain. First time doing this. I haven’t driven it a lot, but it seems to have eliminated the occasional rear “bump” in the driveline
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Which grease did you use?
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09-20-2020, 10:30 PM
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#34642
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Member
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Join Date: Mar 2020
Location: Sacramento, CA
Posts: 348
Real Name: Joe
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Member
Join Date: Mar 2020
Location: Sacramento, CA
Posts: 348
Real Name: Joe
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PNWLivin
Which grease did you use?
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Mobile 1 Synthetic. It's my first time doing it so please don't just take my word for it and do your research. Amazon.com: Mobil 1 Synthetic Grease, Auto, 12.5 oz.: Automotive
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09-21-2020, 12:37 PM
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#34643
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Member
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Join Date: Feb 2020
Location: Lake City,SC
Posts: 486
Real Name: Danny
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Member
Join Date: Feb 2020
Location: Lake City,SC
Posts: 486
Real Name: Danny
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Quote:
Originally Posted by xtremewlr
Yesterday, I made a cradle for the FJ t-case in preparation for the swap next weekend. Sits great on the floor jack and won't fall off. Also fits the stock t-case.
Today, I started building my storage drawers.
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I really like the looks of that drawer box. I'm planning on doing something similar over the winter. One thing I want to mention that I'm going to account for, is I want to leave just enough room to get to the small access panel on the rear hatch. If your gate opener fails that's the only way to get the hatch open. I probably wouldn't even have thought about this but mine failed temporarily yesterday, (for the second time in 2 months). It's pretty common so I think it's important to be able to get in there. Just thought I'd share that. Looks good though. Gives me ideas. Thanks
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09-21-2020, 07:25 PM
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#34644
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Member
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Join Date: Nov 2019
Location: Tucson, AZ
Posts: 816
Real Name: Todd
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Member
Join Date: Nov 2019
Location: Tucson, AZ
Posts: 816
Real Name: Todd
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Quote:
Originally Posted by importman
I really like the looks of that drawer box. I'm planning on doing something similar over the winter. One thing I want to mention that I'm going to account for, is I want to leave just enough room to get to the small access panel on the rear hatch. If your gate opener fails that's the only way to get the hatch open. I probably wouldn't even have thought about this but mine failed temporarily yesterday, (for the second time in 2 months). It's pretty common so I think it's important to be able to get in there. Just thought I'd share that. Looks good though. Gives me ideas. Thanks
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Didn't know that. Haven't had any issues with mine yet thankfully. I'll have to look into that.
__________________
2003 4Runner Limited 4wd V8 - Build thread on Tacoma World
FJ tcase swap, VVT intake swap, Solid Offroad motor mounts, Doug Thorley y-pipe, Bold Performance cat-back, ADS shocks F&R, Metal Tech LTHD springs rear, 1" body lift, 285/75/17 Toyo R/T Trails on Sequoia rims, Coastal front bumper, CAD rear bumper
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09-21-2020, 07:54 PM
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#34645
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Member
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Join Date: Feb 2020
Location: Lake City,SC
Posts: 486
Real Name: Danny
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Member
Join Date: Feb 2020
Location: Lake City,SC
Posts: 486
Real Name: Danny
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Quote:
Originally Posted by xtremewlr
Didn't know that. Haven't had any issues with mine yet thankfully. I'll have to look into that.
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There are several threads on here about it. When you have time look through this 12 page one. Help!!! Rear hatch won't open.
I was just looking at how your box is built and it doesn't look like you would be able to get to the release lever and you sure wouldn't be able to move the box, lol. It would be a major PIA if that hatch failed. I wish we just had a manual hatch mechanism. Just thought I'd mention it in case you wanted to see if there's a way to factor that into your build. Good luck with it. It really looks good.
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09-21-2020, 08:23 PM
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#34646
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Member
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Join Date: Nov 2019
Location: Tucson, AZ
Posts: 816
Real Name: Todd
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Member
Join Date: Nov 2019
Location: Tucson, AZ
Posts: 816
Real Name: Todd
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Quote:
Originally Posted by importman
There are several threads on here about it. When you have time look through this 12 page one. Help!!! Rear hatch won't open.
I was just looking at how your box is built and it doesn't look like you would be able to get to the release lever and you sure wouldn't be able to move the box, lol. It would be a major PIA if that hatch failed. I wish we just had a manual hatch mechanism. Just thought I'd mention it in case you wanted to see if there's a way to factor that into your build. Good luck with it. It really looks good.
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Awesome, thanks for the link. Easy enough to cut access to the release lever if needed right now.
__________________
2003 4Runner Limited 4wd V8 - Build thread on Tacoma World
FJ tcase swap, VVT intake swap, Solid Offroad motor mounts, Doug Thorley y-pipe, Bold Performance cat-back, ADS shocks F&R, Metal Tech LTHD springs rear, 1" body lift, 285/75/17 Toyo R/T Trails on Sequoia rims, Coastal front bumper, CAD rear bumper
Last edited by xtremewlr; 09-21-2020 at 08:27 PM.
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09-22-2020, 08:20 AM
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#34647
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Member
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Join Date: Aug 2019
Location: Louisville, KY
Posts: 258
Real Name: Aaron
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Member
Join Date: Aug 2019
Location: Louisville, KY
Posts: 258
Real Name: Aaron
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Quote:
Originally Posted by importman
There are several threads on here about it. When you have time look through this 12 page one. Help!!! Rear hatch won't open.
I was just looking at how your box is built and it doesn't look like you would be able to get to the release lever and you sure wouldn't be able to move the box, lol. It would be a major PIA if that hatch failed. I wish we just had a manual hatch mechanism. Just thought I'd mention it in case you wanted to see if there's a way to factor that into your build. Good luck with it. It really looks good.
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I have drawers in the back of my Runner as well, and have always wondered "what the hell am I going to do if my hatch fails?"
I need to get to cutting a hole for this finally haha. Does anyone have a view of what to cut without digging in to find out?
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2007 4Runner Limited V8
| 2.5 Fox 3" lift w/ remotes & DSC | Dobinson 677V rear | SPC UCAs | 1" BL | SCS F5 | 315/70 DuraTracs | Prinsu full rack | RLC rear bumper/swingout | C4 front bumper | Warn VR8-S | F55 fairlead/Flatlink-E | Rocksteady skids | ARB 2500 awning | Dometic CFX 40W | Partner Steel 22" stove | Adventure Index drawer/sleeping platform | ARB twin compressor | Odyssey 34R dual batteries | Blue Sea SI ACR/fuse panel/USB | Renogy 100W Eclipse | Baja Designs Squadron R & S2 | G5R retrofits | Doug Thorley headers/Y pipe | weBoost OTR |
Last edited by JuniorPigeon; 09-22-2020 at 08:45 AM.
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09-22-2020, 10:14 AM
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#34648
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Member
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Join Date: Feb 2020
Location: Lake City,SC
Posts: 486
Real Name: Danny
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Member
Join Date: Feb 2020
Location: Lake City,SC
Posts: 486
Real Name: Danny
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JuniorPigeon
I have drawers in the back of my Runner as well, and have always wondered "what the hell am I going to do if my hatch fails?"
I need to get to cutting a hole for this finally haha. Does anyone have a view of what to cut without digging in to find out?
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I don't have a pic but you need to be able to get to, and put your hand into the hole behind the small square access cover on rear gate interior panel. You pop the cover off then there's a small white cover on the lock that comes off and you pull up the small lever and it releases your hatch. I know that's more than you asked but I got started and couldn't stop.
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09-22-2020, 02:40 PM
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#34649
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Member
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Join Date: Feb 2020
Location: Lake City,SC
Posts: 486
Real Name: Danny
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Member
Join Date: Feb 2020
Location: Lake City,SC
Posts: 486
Real Name: Danny
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If anyone's been reading my other posts on here you would have seen that I just upgraded my front brakes to the larger, sport ones. Then I posted about a really good deal on powerstop rear rotors and pads. The "daily driver" variety, not the drilled/slotted ones. Anyway, I installed them today and after the bed in procedure I'm happy to report these are doing great as well. I originally had horrible pulsation, especially in the steering wheel before I did the fronts. Then most of the pulsation was gone, all gone from the steering wheel, just had a slight pulse coming from the rear. Now, I can't believe how good it feels. No pulsation at all and the pedal effort is unbelievably light. I never thought it would make so much more difference doing the rear but it is noticeable. I did find one thing I don't like. Inside the drum portion of the L/R rotor was a small amount of coagulated gear oil. The axle seal is either leaking very very slightly or it had a leak previously that was fixed and not cleaned thoroughly. I cleaned it up and I'll pull that rotor back off in a couple of months to see how it looks.
If anyone's interested, Rock Auto still has the powerstop rear rotor and ceramic pad combo for $43.79 + tax and shipping. Came out to $64 for me.
NOTE: I just checked and that set is now $54 Prime on Amazon. If you're a prime member that would be even cheaper. This is the part # KOE2405
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09-24-2020, 12:27 PM
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#34650
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Member
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Join Date: Aug 2017
Location: Ohio
Posts: 600
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Member
Join Date: Aug 2017
Location: Ohio
Posts: 600
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$30 UCA from rock auto.
Stock was shot at 190k and ready to fall apart on one big pothole.
1 hour job.
I figure for the price, I can replace it three times compared to the next higher priced one and it can't be that much worse. One more rattle to fix and I already have the steering shaft ready to go for that.
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