Currently running Bilstein 5100's with OME 886's in the front and Moog FJC 81081 + Daystar Rear 1.5" rear spacer.

I want to combat 2 problems:
1. Driver side lean, with the rear end. I think if I add a top out spacer on the front, I'll bind.
2. Stiffer rear + less sag when weight is added
3. A bit more height as I'm leveled with nothing, but quite leaned back with just a bit of camping gear.

Anyone have suggestions on a rear spring that will combat these 3 issues?

I was thinking about the OME 895's, but they might be at or a bit lower than what I have currently.

Just picked up a set of Fox 2.5 DSC coilovers. I'm considering removing the front sway bar when I put them on... Anyone who has pulled theirs have any feedback?
I've removed sway bars from my trucks in the past, but those all had longer more stable feeling wheelbases.

I haven’t done it, but you can search here on the forum for opinions. I’ve read many that say it isn’t an issue.

Yo that's a good find. Do you have the Mevotech/RockAuto part number on that? Couldn't seem to find it when searching on RockAuto for my 2006 Runner.

EDIT:
Looks like the Mevotech part numbers are CMS861199 (left) and CMS861198 (right). The pictures on RockAuto and the Mevotech website show the old style UCAs, however.

Hello everyone. I’ve been chipping away at this thread for days now, trying to make sense of this totally foreign (to me) subject. I figured I’m confused enough to work up a post now. Before I go on; big “Thank you” to all of those who have contributed over the years. Seriously, there’s some very valuable information here in this thread.

So, I drive a 2006 Sport V6 2WD with 242,000+ miles and XREAS. It is my daily driver, usually just round trip to work and around town here and there. I also do LIGHT “Dirt Roading” here and there when going varmint hunting or recreational shooting in general. 90/10 mix of Texas asphalt and dirt. (Texas roads could be considered “Off Roading” in some areas though… yeeesh!) Suspension is old, wearing out, and needs totally replaced.

I’m not wealthy, but I’m not too worried about price. I am concerned with quality, and performance more so. Staying under $2k would be cool. Before reading this thread I was sold on mixing and matching components, and then I started thinking and reading that MFG’s probably complimentary spec their components with purpose. Maybe buying a one brand “Kit” is the way for me?

I’ve looked at Bilstein, OME, ToyTec, and Radflo, and am thoroughly confused as to what exactly I need to accomplish my goal, let alone which kit would be better. I’ve considered 5100 with OME springs; but start worrying about mixing components from companies who do not valve their shocks similarly. I’ve considered 6112/5160 with a B12 spring in the rear as well. And now I’m looking at the OME Nitrocharger shock kit at ToyTec. Help?

I’m looking to fit somewhat larger tires on my RWD-only vehicle because it looks cool. It also makes the vehicle slightly more capable, but looking neat is big for me. (j/k). I see a lot of people like 285/70R17, but rubbing is a concern. For that reason I’ve considered the extremely limited world of 275/70R17 tires, but am not even opposed to sticking with 265’s, I just want a little more height. 33” is sweet, but I am only RWD, so I’ll settle with 32” or begrudgingly with 31” if I need to.

I am fine with rake, close to level is better, but raked is cool too. I’m not after a “plush” ride, but I would like to retain road manners as well in terms on softness/firmness of suspension. Regardless, I will be doing UCA’s, to “future proof” this work, and to help with probable alignment issues. (OME or Bilstein, maybe?)

I’m also on OEM Toyota wheels, and would like to keep them. The wheels on my Sport are 30mm offset if what I’ve read is correct. (Six spoke). I’m not opposed to some fancy bronze Toyota wheels later on, but not now. So for now, I think I need spacers? Can someone confirm this for me?

Apologies for the novel, but thanks for hanging in there with me.

In summation:

1. Can you recommend a lift solution from a single supplier?
2. If not a single supplier, can you recommend a combo that will work for my needs?
3. Do I need to run wheel spacers with my OEM wheels, and are 285’s even an option for me?

@RandomGyro , check out the “X-REAS delete…” post linked in my thread. I think what I’m running now (3rd Gen Tacoma swap w/ FJ rear springs) or what I’m looking at for next time after researching kits (Eibach Stage 1 Pro Truck kit) would work very well for you. Let us know what you eventually decide to go with and how it works out.

About spacers, they significantly improve the 4th Gen’s look imo. See post on Spidertrax linked in my sig.

And if looks are on your mind, I highly recommend the mudflap delete.

@Bluesky 07 , Thank you for your response. I’ve actually read (I think) every link in your signature, some twice, haha! You have been a wealth of information and inspiration for me. Your post on XREAS delete inspired me to attempt this all myself, as it’s MUCH less involved that I ever would have thought.

Oddly enough; on lunch break today at work I began researching the Eibach kit, and it looks VERY promising as a “one stop” solution to my situation. The price is more than acceptable, and the name Eibach carries a certain quality that I am actually familiar with. (As opposed to OME, Fox, Bilstein, which are totally foreign/new to me.)

Thanks for the suggestion on spacers as well, and I agree that they do add a sense of aggressiveness for minimal dollars. (Pretty even trade off IMO.) I was more or less wondering if I would *NEED* them with 30mm offset wheels, but I think my mind was bending information, as 30mm should be better for clearance than 25mm.

I’m still VERY undecided on tires, and tire size. I think I may rule out 285’s entirely as I stand to gain nothing in 2WD. 275’s are so limited in availability, the Falken is probably the stand-out winner, but very heavy at 57lbs/tire. I was also looking at 265/70 today before lunch, and options are plentiful in that size. So that may be where I end up.

Regardless; I will post a pic/first impression and quickie review with gratitude once decided and installed, which may need to be sooner than later as I may have suffered a puncture today in my commute. (Will be doing brakes, tires, and suspension, all in one go.)

Not sure what the spring rates are on the Fox's but I removed mine with OME 896s in the front and it definitely leans a lot more.

I wrote up my opinions after I removed mine:
https://www.toyota-4runner.org/2989784-post135.html

Thank you, that's exactly the type of feedback I was looking for.

Currently running maxtrac spindles and bistein shocks. Also ICON coils in the rear. I was running Tacoma OEM wheels with spacers on 285 BFGs and rubbed a lot. Did the body mount chop and still rubbed. Just switched to method NV's and removed the spacers and it rides completely different with no rubbing, much better.



I also just ordered fox long travel shocks with bypass back in December. Hoping to get the Dirtking kit installed once the shocks are in (13weeks).

Sorry for confusion, looking for some 4Runner expertise as I don’t know what my immediate next step is to fix my current situation.

Current situation:
• ’07 Sport V8 RWD w/200k miles
• XREAS deleted, replaced w/Bilstein 4600’s
• Original OEM coils are sagging pretty bad – Center hub to fender measurements Fronts: 18/18.5”, Rears: 21.5/21.75”

Goals (FYI – truck is used more of a daily driver than for sport):
• Restore or improve ride as I sometimes bottom out over speed humps/bumps
• Perform mild lift
• Level front end thru lift
• Already purchased TRD Pro wheels and intend to increase tire size

Questions need assistance with:
1. Am I asking for trouble attempting to perform any range of lift on Bilstein 4600 struts? I’ve seen posts stating both yes and no. Trying to gauge how much I'm going to have to invest since the 4600's are relatively new.
2. Ultimately I need to know, in order to perform a lift, can I simply replace all coils with either OEM/Aftermarket or do I need to also replace the struts to ones that have more travel?
3. If I go with a 2.5/1.5 lift, should I expect a result which still has a slightly forward rake?

Thanks all in advance for the knowledge!

Sorry, it's too hard read your post, please break it up into paragraphs or at least separate the sentences so it's easier to read, you will get more replies and help!!

I wouldn't risk it. Noticed a ton of sway in the vehicle and SUV's are inherently heavier than a truck with an empty bed. Unless you've got a roll cage, then let her rip haha

Here's my personal experience: With 140k on the ODO, I threw on 5100's all around for about 60k mi. with stock springs. Last week with just under 200k on the ODO, just installed the OME Kit from ToyTec that you're referring to. (I just posted my specs and pics in the "Tire/Lift Central" thread, if you're familiar)

IMO: 5100's are a great budget solution to level (or lift w/ spacers) without worrying about too many factors. I had mine set at the 0.85" notch and the vehicle was perfectly level and perfectly aligned with stock UCA's. This kit felt amazing from the minute it was installed. Firm enough to maintain its own traveling at quick speeds, but plush enough to eliminate any recognition of minor roadway bumps. Off-road it absolutely ripped, alone or with passengers. I would highly recommend this setup to anyone who wants a leveling kit that requires minimal additional parts and a huge leg up when compared to stock suspension.

Last week I just installed the OME kit. This is a full 3" lift kit (got more actually) and required I replace the UCAs as well. It is among the "cheaper" lift kits, but still much more significant in price than a set of Bilstein's and stock coils. I opted to do it myself, but nonetheless, this kit is a whole different league than a spacer or leveling kit. This is where performance starts to really shine. While the first couple hundred miles were rough, the suspension has started to break in nicely. The vehicle looks like a total off-road beast and I can't wait to rip her along the mountain roads of Colorado. Until then, I cannot attest to the actual off-road performance of the OME kit compared to the Bilstein's. As for highway/around town, it's MUCH stiffer than stock or the Bilstein's, BUT not uncomfortable. Just a firmer drive feel (great for emergency maneuvers with quick ability to recover. Cant even feel my car tilt or drift on hard turns).

To answer your questions:

Yotomafia & Toytec would be my recommendations for buying the entire "kit" you're describing. You're absolutely right when you mention you shouldn't mix the Bilstein struts with OME or another brand coils. Do some people do it? Sure! But are they taking a chance on these lower end lift kits? Yeah absolutely.

I have spidertrax wheel spacers and the spacers are actually what caused the wheel to start rubbing, so do you need them? No. Does it give your vehicle a way more aggressive look and wider stance, yes. I cannot attest to 285's, I'm running 270's, but will consider the 275 or 285's next time I need to replace my tires. For now, I'm perfectly happy with the look. If you go with 285's you will most definitely need spacers and plan on doing some bumper trimming. The bigger lift you go with, the larger tire you can support. But each config will have a certain amount of bumper trimming and the need (or not) for spacers. I believe there's a "How Much Lift to Fit Which Tire" guide on the first page of this thread.

Which kit for you? Only you can answer that but my advice would be to steer clear of the higher end OME/ToyTec/Bilstein 6112's if only 10% of your vehicle time is spent off-road. You can achieve the look and feel with budget friendly kits without paying for the extra performance that's not going to be used.

Bilstein 5100's are quite customizable because of the adjust ride height, and the ability to use your current or new OEM springs, keeping costs low and the wallet happy. If you know you want a 2.5"+ kit, then I would recommend stepping up to the OME Nitrochargers as it includes everything, and is still cheaper than the 6112/5160 kit. ToyTec sells 1/2" top out spacers too so keep those in mind. Also, with the Bilstein 5100's you can always adjust (for more or less) height over time based on whether you like the current look, spring sag, additional vehicle weight, etc. But if you know you want that full 3" with 285's then just front the investment now on the OME's with the appropriate spring, and it saves you money in the long run.

Let me know if you have any questions!

Don't have too much experience with the 4600 series however with 200k miles on OEM springs, what if you just bought some spacers for the struts and refreshed the springs all around. I bet that alone would change the ride height but, again no experience behind this idea, not sure if you would get the full 2.5" for the leveled look. Not sure if this helps, but best of luck to you.