You will need wheel spacers or aftermarket wheels to push the tire out away from the UCA. I doubt the UCAs would provide any benefit here.

I know the info is probably in here somewhere but I thought someone could help me find what I am looking for. I am wanting to put a 1 inch body lift on my t4r. Any advise on what to buy, where to buy it, or anything else I should know? I will most likely be paying a shop to do it because the task seems pretty overwhelming to me.

You going to toss on some bigger tires to go with all that lift? Don't get me wrong, your ride is awesome, but the 265-70-17's are already looking a tad small with all the lift you already have - right? (Just curious).

Yes, 285's will be coming this summer and I would like to do a body lift with them to make sure it fits perfectly.

Awesome. I look forward to seeing it!

Toytec 1".

Toytec or 4crawler. At 1" the steering spacer is optional. I'd suggest getting quotes on install before going to far on it, I got a few quotes locally and they were insanely high.

Okay I will look into the price of doing it. Where can I buy them online though?

on the tire/lift fitment guide.. when it states (except bfg at) on stock suspension, does that mean that it does not require some trimming or what.. lil confused..

actually im leaning toward the cooper discover atp 265/70/17.. will this fit stock till i lift.

Toytec

4crawler

Install write-up

If you'll notice, 4crawler lists the typical 1" kit as options D+RAD. You don't have to have the steering spacer, but also wouldn't hurt to add it either.

You should be fine with 265/70/17 at stock height with those tires. As long as you are running stock wheels and are not running wheel spacers, they shouldn't rub or require trimming. BFG AT's have a very square profile and have more rubbing that most tires in the same size, which is the reason for the note.

thanks ... now i can get my tires first.. then save for lift and spacers..

The more lift, the less caster you will have. After market UCAs have the upper ball joint (or uniball) positioned farther back in the arm. The reason for this is the axis on which the UCA pivots compared to the lower control arm. Take a look, you will notice that it makes the upper end of the spindle move forward as the arm moves down. This has a negative effect on caster. I just had mine aligned today, 3" lift spacers with FJ springs. It sits a good deal higher that stock, about four inches. Toe is easy to make work, camber I had them set to zero, caster however, is out of spec. The only way I will get it back is to either hack up my UCAs and weld them back together in an altered state, or buy after market UCAs. So far it seems to drive just fine, so I think I'll just let it be although I am seriously considering getting a set of stockers, relocating the upper ball joint more rearward (and outward) with compensation for my new static angle, and using a bolt-on ball joint from a Gen2 4Runner. It sounds like a fun engineering anyway!

@ARK_SWAMP_RIDER

What did you end up doing for your body lift? Install yourself?

Yea, I did the install myself. It took me a while, but wasn't really difficult. The front two mounts were the most time consuming, but I took it slow and got it done.

I have a silly / stupid question about Bilstein 5100s. I thought ride height was determined (more or less) by what kind of springs you run. How is the shock absorber able to change this setting? Also, how many ride height settings are available and what (approximate) lift amounts do they correspond to?