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Old 12-27-2011, 12:58 PM #76
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I know this took a lot of time to put together http://www.toyota-4runner.org/suspen...e-fj-swap.html, thank you for doing it! It would be great if there were a similar spreadsheet for the 5100/(884/885/886) combination that seems to extremely popular now. Some items for a spreadsheet of this kind would be what setting are your 5100s at, do you have a top plate spacer or not (if so which), V6 or V8, etc, any extra weight (bumper, winch, both, extra battery), lastly final lift amount.

I'm not volunteering ARK_SWAMP_RIDER, that last spreadsheet probably took long enough to put together I'm sure, but if anyone had some time it would greatly help the forum.
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Old 12-27-2011, 08:09 PM #77
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That can be done if there's enough interest. I wouldn't mind doing it, just want to make sure it would be worth the time. I got a lot of stuff figured out after doing the FJ spreadsheet, shouldn't be too hard to do another for OME (and others).
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Old 12-28-2011, 12:54 AM #78
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FJ Springs+5100 +Daystar 2.5/1.5

Well for better or worse my suspension swap is complete! I love the FJ springs and 5100's. The Dead XREAS is pulled off and in the trash.

No more bumps rattling through the frame.

I left my Day Star 2.5/1.5 on my truck, and that maybe a first. Haven't seen anyone that did that. I am alittle concerned that my CV's are over stressed, but time will tell. I will attach what pictures I have. Also I left the 5100's at the factory setting, zero lift from Shocks. I gained about 1.5 inches with this set up, and I really didn't want that much, suppose I could have figured it out in advance with more research.

Other notes:
* The Spring Compressors from Autozone worked just fine for me.
* I did not take off any pan hard bar or sway bar on the rear.
* Developed a small hole on the drivers LCA Ball Joint, very little info on the net on replacing this unit or the dust boot
* I used the eccentric drop method and it really helped
* Did take off the swaybar...helped me

Thanks for all the previous and prolific posters!
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4th Gen Suspension Options/FAQ-dec2011-169-jpg  4th Gen Suspension Options/FAQ-dec2011-168-jpg  4th Gen Suspension Options/FAQ-dec2011-165-jpg  4th Gen Suspension Options/FAQ-dec2011-164-jpg  4th Gen Suspension Options/FAQ-dec2011-167-jpg 
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Old 01-03-2012, 07:40 PM #79
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Hey everyone,
Just finished installing a Toytec Ultimate 3" Lift kit with Bilstein 5100's front & rear, and Toytec lift springs. I'm running 285/70R17 BFG KM2's on FJC wheels. After relocating forward the inner fender liners, the only point of interference is now the inner tire lugs against the front sway bar when I've got it cranked to full lock. Anybody remove the front sway bar? Does it really affect the handling without it? It's either I do that or go with a 1/2" or 1" wheel adapter....

Suggestions?

Thanks
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Old 01-03-2012, 08:20 PM #80
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I know it's typically used when there's contact between the swaybar and shock/coil, but do you think the swaybar relocate would help? I've not dealt with that contact so I can't say for sure. The sb relocate would move the swaybar forward, you can look and see if that would help.

Second option, as you mentioned, is wheel spacers/adapters. I would not run the ring type spacers that just slip over the existing studs. Use a hub centric spacer/adapter such as the Spidertrax or All Pro (AP does make both hub and lug centric versions, you want the hub centric ones). Due to design, 1.25" is the narrowest option available on these spacers. If you're going to run spacers, it's definitely worth the cost to go with one of these two, much safer and more reliable.
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Old 01-03-2012, 09:13 PM #81
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ARK_SWAMP_RIDER View Post
I know it's typically used when there's contact between the swaybar and shock/coil, but do you think the swaybar relocate would help? I've not dealt with that contact so I can't say for sure. The sb relocate would move the swaybar forward, you can look and see if that would help.

Second option, as you mentioned, is wheel spacers/adapters. I would not run the ring type spacers that just slip over the existing studs. Use a hub centric spacer/adapter such as the Spidertrax or All Pro (AP does make both hub and lug centric versions, you want the hub centric ones). Due to design, 1.25" is the narrowest option available on these spacers. If you're going to run spacers, it's definitely worth the cost to go with one of these two, much safer and more reliable.
I've already installed the 1"-thick swaybar relocation blocks (between the swaybar & the frame) & diff drop pucks that came with the Toytec ULK. Not sure if this is what you're referring to....

If that's the case, then I guess I'm limited to either removing the swaybar, or going with the 1.25" spacer/adapters...
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Old 01-03-2012, 09:30 PM #82
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Yes, that's what I was referring to. Sounds like the only option in that case is the wheel spacers. They will definitely solve your issues, but be aware they may also cause rubbing in other areas. It's nothing major, but something to be prepared for.
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Old 01-05-2012, 04:28 PM #83
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RanchoRunner View Post
Hey everyone,
Anybody remove the front sway bar? Does it really affect the handling without it?
Suggestions?

Thanks
Hey, The kit I have came with huge coilovers, its a 6" adjustable bracket drop designed for an Fj that I modified to fit a T4R. I've searched for ways to get the sway bar to fit again, and no luck, but it only took me a little while to get used to not having it and its honestly not so bad. Saying this, I dont speed as much since the lift.
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Old 01-24-2012, 06:11 PM #84
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Sorry guys, there is alot of conflicting info here...Im trying to figure out what spacer size I need to level out my:

2006 SR5 4WD 4runner.... I was gonna go with a Daystar 2.5

(KT09116BK)
Daystar Part KT09116BK - ComfortRide Suspension Strut Spacer Kit

just wanna make sure I don't buy the wrong thing...

I also just bought 265/70/17 Kumho KL61's
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Old 01-24-2012, 06:45 PM #85
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If you find conflicting info, please point it out specifically so I can get it updated.

It takes about 1.5" lift to level the 4runner. The spacer you linked to is 2.5", so unless you're adding a rear spacer, it'll be too high in the front. There really aren't any options for a 1.5" lift spacer, most use a 1" lift spacer.

That said, if you're looking for more lift, daystar makes a 2.5"/1.5"kit that lifts and levels the 4runner, just all depends on how high you want to go.
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Old 01-24-2012, 06:46 PM #86
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I used Daystar 2.5. 1.5 lift kit. Take a look at my garage pics. Mine is pretty level.
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Old 01-24-2012, 08:51 PM #87
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Quote:
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I used Daystar 2.5. 1.5 lift kit. Take a look at my garage pics. Mine is pretty level.
what size tires are those on the 4runner in garage?
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Old 01-25-2012, 04:39 PM #88
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Hi Guys,

I am interested in doing a FJ sping and bilstein swap. Can anyone that has done this comment on if the minor lift that is realized with this swap affected the gas milage?

Thanks,
~Corey
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Old 01-25-2012, 05:51 PM #89
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Hi Guys,

I am interested in doing a FJ sping and bilstein swap. Can anyone that has done this comment on if the minor lift that is realized with this swap affected the gas milage?

Thanks,
~Corey
The lift should have very little impact on your gas mileage. On the other hand, larger tires to compliment the lift can make a pretty big difference.
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Old 01-30-2012, 02:34 PM #90
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So many options for my 2007 Limited

First of all thanks swamp rider for the great info. My only question is on the wheel tire combos for the lifts, i assume they have no spacers...? If they were 1.25" out would there be less rubbing issues?

After a mind numbing amount of time spent on here I have a pretty good idea of what I want my 4runner to look like but the options are endless.

Lifts: 3/2...ish Toytech, Cornfed or Daystar?
Spacers: 1.25" spidertrax?
Wheels and tires: Powdercoat the stock 18"s? and then go with a 275/65???

Any info or personal opinions would be great, and throwing in some prices would be helpful.

and finally, does a 32" tire fit in the spare well, a 33" maybe???

thanks so much!
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