If and when you go with the ICON rears, spend the extra cash and buy the remote reservoir versions as the regular ICON 2.5s are not much better than your Bilsteins...

Thx for the advice Lost4R... and thx for looking out of a fellow goldie

I own a 05 T4R sport edition 2wd w/stock suspension. I'm thinking of putting on a set of 5th gen 20" limited rims w/the stock tire sizes 245/60R20. Anyone know if these rims will rub if installed on a 4th gen w/stock suspension?

Hi guys,

Great site here... Endless reading...

I have been lurking here for awhile. I have a 2004 limited and I would like to convert my airbags to manual like Bossman's technician did to his. My question is.... Does anybody know what size the hoses/fittings are on the bags...? And if so... Does anybody specifically know who would supply such things?

Thanks,
Mitchie

Still on the hunt for largest wheel/tire size option that'll fit my 2005 2WD 4R after installation of an ICON Stage I 3"/2" lift - without requiring cutting, trimming, or removal of mud flaps. Beginning to recognize that the ultimate option will not be a function purely of size, but of geometry as well - which is probably why so many members have different experiences with rubbing even though they may have the same size tires and/or wheels. For my purposes I don't want or need to stuff the wheel wells with rubber. I also don't want the tires sticking too far out from the fenders; or tucked too far in either. Here's the geometric specs I'm sorting through...

Factory Wheels:
17" x 7.5" with a +30mm (1.18") offset
New Wheels (Black Rhino Sierra):
17" x 9" with a + 12 (.47") offset
18" x 9" with a + 12 (.47") offset

Factory Tires (Dunlop Grandtrek AT20:
265/65/R17 (30.6" diameter, 10.7" overall width)
New Tires (Nitto Terra Grappler G2 or Toyo Open Country A/T II):
265/70/R17 (31.7" diameter, 10.7" overall width)
265/65/R18 (31.5" diameter, 10.7" overall width)
275/65/R18 (32.1" diameter, 11.0" overall width)
New Tires (BFG All-Terrain T/A KO2):
275/70/R17 (32.2" diameter, 11.0" overall width)

By virtue of the decreased offset (18mm/.7") and increased width (.75" (1.5" divided by 2)), the new wheels should stick out 1.45" more than than the factory wheels. Both the factory wheels and the new wheels should provide just under 5" of backspace, which would be within the max specified by ICON. I was considering the same wheels with -12mm offset, but this would cause the wheels to stick out 2.39" more than stock, which I think may be excessive.

Though a .3" difference in overall tire width (just .15" each side) may not seems substantial from a mathematical perspective, it may be substantial from a geometric/clearance perspective relative to wheel size, offset, and backspace. Theoretically, more backspace would mean less clearance from the UCA and inner wheel well, and less backspace would mean less clearance from the outer wheel well, fender, and mud flap. Additionally, any increase in tire diameter above the factory 30.6" (even by only 1.1 to 1.6" (.55 to .80" each side)) would further decrease clearance and increase the likelihood that something is going to rub somewhere!

Given all these dimensions and the 3"/2" lift, there must be one configuration that will permit some minimal upsizing without creating a rubbing issue that will require cutting, trimming, or mud flap removal. Yes, I have read other threads where members claim being able to run 33" tires without 'butchering', but tire size is only one factor. The pieces to the clearance puzzle must include wheel width, offset, and backspace to have any meaning at all. For example, just switching to 9" wide wheels with -12mm offset would be equivalent to running factory wheels with 1.25" to 1.5" spacers. It sure would be helpful if members' build threads included the offset specs of their wheels and described whether any areas of tire rubbing were further inward or outward.

Though I'd like to upsize to 275/65/R18, I'm not sure the .6" in diameter or .3 in overall width over the 265/65/R18 to justify the increased risk of rubbing or the affects on gearing and speedo calibration. In contrast, the .9" increase (.45" each side) over the 30.6" factory provided by the 31.5" diameter 265/65/R18 may be the most logical option. Look forward to getting feedback from members who've approached this issue from a similar angle and what decision they came to!

The best advice I can give on tires, is to look at every single tire/lift combo in that sticky, and decide what you like the best. I went with 255/75/17 (255/70/18) and don't rub, still have mud flaps (although I'm probably going to take them off) and didn't have to hack on anything w/ a 3/2 lift. I probably went through the lift/tire thread 2 or 3 times before I decided on that tire size. There are all sorts of tire/rim/lift combos that you don't have to make any changes with.

In my last post I made a comparison between 7.5" wide factory wheel with spacers and a 9" wheel with -12mm offset. That comparison was based on +12mm offset! My bad!!!

Thx Drunner97! I too have spent hours looking at build threads and photos trying to find the right fit and look I'm after. Not easy with so many options out there. Seems like the new school of thought is 265 and under, so that's the direction I'm leaning toward. Don't want to have to make too many alterations beyond the lift itself just to fit an extra 1" of rubber! Do you have a build thread or pics of your setup posted?

http://www.toyota-4runner.org/2117342-post3944.html

This was right after I finished installing the lift so it's settled down since. I can take some more pictures when I get home later if you want more angles. The tires look close to the mud flaps, but they aren't hitting. I was just off road with it twice this past weekend and there are no rub marks through the dirt/mud on the flaps or fender liners.

Nice rig! Thx 4 posting the pic! I assume the offset on your factory wheels is close to mine(+30mm). Are you running with or without spacers?

Thanks. Running without spacers and the tires are REALLY close to my UCAs.

ok.....2007 sport v6.
OME 90000 Shocks up front with 885 coils
OME 60020 Shocks in Rear with 896 HD coils
measurements from center of hub to bottom of fender:
front 23" Even
Rear is about 24 1/2 "
17" FJ wheels with 265/70/17 Terra grapplers.
If i added a 1" spacer lift all around, and UCA's could i fit 285'S?

Attached Images

 

Newbie poster here hoping some of you guys can direct me to the best possible solution for my situation. There's a ton of info here, but I'm not really sure if I'm making the best possible decision.

What: 2005 Sport 4x2 with about 142k ish miles, XREAS, V6.
Primary Use:Use the runner as my daily driver, but maybe 4-5 times a year, I use it to haul my motorcycle(s) to the track. I either use a hitch carrier or a trailer (depending if I'm taking people and their bikes).

The weight on the receiver (tongue weight) can vary anywhere from 350-500 lbs (depending if i'm pulling a trailer, or have the bike on the carrier). I notice CONSIDERABLE droop when putting bikes on the back, and of course a really sketchy front feel on the steering wheel.

I had considered to just put in FJ springs into the rear, but last time I was under the car, I noticed the dust boot on the front shock had torn (for some time), as well as the steering tie rods have all blown up. The shocks and XREAS themselves are not leaking.

I'm thinking it's best to do an entire overhaul of the suspension, but with the rear beefed up to handle 500 lb tongue weight and not droop that much.

• Can this be done for under 7-800 dollars, assuming labor I do myself? Let's not count the cost of the tierods at the moment, since that will be dictated by OEM dealer prices.
• Can someone suggest a good combo for me with the towing in mind?

If you're only carrying the extra weight (either hitch carrier or trailer) a few times a year, building a suspension to cater to this is the wrong approach. You need to build your suspension for the "normal" weight you will carry. For added support 4-5 times a year, look at either Firestone or Airlift air bags for the rear. This way your ride won't be too stiff when unloaded, but you can compensate for when you are loaded up.

For your suspension, are you wanting to lift it? If so, how much? For your budget, I'd consider Bilstein 5100 shocks ($330 from DownSouth MotorSports). Depending on how much lift you want, you have several options for coil springs.

Ah, airbags, why didn't I think of that.
Not looking to lift, just keep the standard lift as OEM.
Any suggestions for the spring portion? I want to maintain at least the same ride quality as OEM.