Now, if you can swing it you can buy the Radflo kit from Metal Tech for ~$1500. Radflo 2.0" 03-Current 4Runner Suspension Kit
This is a true coilover setup, 2" shocks that will perform much better. You can also add parts as needed, control arms front/rear, and all those other goodies later. (as with anything you go with) In the end it's up to you of course. Make sure you start a build thread and show us what you do!
I plan on making my own sliders too. Need to find a welder friend myself. Lol[/QUOTE]
@insaniak I say save up just a little more and due the next best setup like the Radflos etc like @t-man suggested and just do it right the first time. Spend the extra 5bills now or another 1500 when you realize you want coilovers and now you will have spent 2500 when you could have saved a little more to give yourself 1500 budget. Easier now to save 5bills than another 1000 -1500 down the road especially when your child's needs in life keep getting more and more expensive. Suspension is the key component when off roading a daily driver everything else are just added bonuses and mods which can wait.
Don't buy diapers for a month and you got your 500 just go old school with cloth diapers and wash them and don't do formula have your wife...use ur imagination. Lol
I would worry about this before wheel spacers and tires which you can get both used and cheap for now...use that money on doing right the first time.
Ask anyone of use how we know...
We all made this mistake as you probably will to cause were impatient and want it lifted now not in a few more months.
My .02 of course

@insaniak I say save up just a little more and due the next best setup like the Radflos etc like @t-man suggested and just do it right the first time. Spend the extra 5bills now or another 1500 when you realize you want coilovers and now you will have spent 2500 when you could have saved a little more to give yourself 1500 budget. Easier now to save 5bills than another 1000 -1500 down the road especially when your child's needs in life keep getting more and more expensive. Suspension is the key component when off roading a daily driver everything else are just added bonuses and mods which can wait.
Don't buy diapers for a month and you got your 500 just go old school with cloth diapers and wash them and don't do formula have your wife...use ur imagination. Lol
I would worry about this before wheel spacers and tires which you can get both used and cheap for now...use that money on doing right the first time.
Ask anyone of use how we know...
We all made this mistake as you probably will to cause were impatient and want it lifted now not in a few more months.
My .02 of course[/QUOTE]

That's a good argument. I think I might just end up having to do the radflos then. Thanks for the advice.

[/QUOTE]That's a good argument. I think I might just end up having to do the radflos then. Thanks for the advice.[/QUOTE]

I really REALLY wish I had saved up. I wasn't in a position at the time to though, sometimes it's hard to remember that. My XREAS had puked it's guts out completely and it was hard to keep on the road. I have other things to take care of; Full exhaust, timing belt, power steering pump, rims, snorkel, then my next lift and good shocks/coilovers! and then bigger tires..and lights..and sliders...and bumpers...and

So, I just bought a 2004 sr5 v6. I love it. I feel that at 140k i want to replace the front struts and rear shocks. I am not on offroader, just some forest service roads and camping. I want a nice stock replacement with no lift. It looks like the Bilstein 5100s are recommended. Would I go with the lowest setting or second lowest. I just want a smooth ride. Also which rear shocks are a good replacement for stock to go with the 5100'? And factory says 5000 miles for oil change. I di first one with Toyota factory oil filter. Do you giuys go with 5000 for street use? Thanks and I love this ride!!

I don't know how many threads I have to respond to until I can post a question. I understand that for reasons of people just using site to sell things this has reason. For a new owner wanting questions it is frustrating. So I will back door a question here. I have jist bought a 2004 4runner SR5 Vg 4spd, I love it 140K. I am going to replace struts and rear shocks probably KYB or 5100's. I keep reading and hearing leveling mentioned. Are certain models not level as stock or as they wear do they have leveling problems? May sound dumb but I don't know. I just want a replacement smooth ride with struts and shocks as vehicle has 140K and they have not been changed. At what point can I post a thread? And if a question has been asked a thousand times, I guess you don't have to answer, LOL. I am not a seller resller vendor or other, just a guy who love his 2004 4runner and has questions. THanks!!!!

There is a 15 post minimum before you can start a new thread. This was primarily done to help with spam on the forums. Unfortunately it makes it a bit harder for folks like you, but it's done a great job at cutting down spam (posts with hidden embedded links, not anything our actual members post).

If you measure from the ground to bottom of the fender, you'll see the front sits approx 1.5"-2" lower than the rear. When lifting, most lift the front more than the rear to level out the measurements.

As far as shocks, the KYBs would be very similar to stock ride quality. The 5100s are a bit stiffer, but give a better ride IMO. The 5100s have 4 settings so you can lift/level the front (the rears are not adjustable). If you're happy with ride quality now and just want to refresh the suspension, KYB would probably be the better choice.

I have researched it a lot but i just want to make sure.... I have a 2003 2wd with a daystar 2.5/1.5 lift and I was wanting to run 275/70/R17 BFG KO2 with wheel spacers on the stock wheel....but it sounds like it will rub the UCA too much correct?

You should be fine with the wheel spacers. I am running the 275/70/18 without wheel spacers and not having any rubbing issues on the UCA'S. So with the wheel spacers you should not have any issue

I was under the impression that there was some pretty bad rubbing going on with that setup on the UCA... Any one else know about this?

Well I have a different setup. I am running the toytec ultimate lift with LR UCA's, and I haven't had any issues, but it is a different set up

I don't want to start another "lift thread" so hoping someone reads this.

I have 2005 Sport Edition 4x4. From my readings, the XREAS is standard. That means I'm limited on lifts so it looks like I'm going to get the 3" spacer lift. However, I have a couple questions.....

1) is there a link or a write-up to do the spacer lift with the XREAS system. I've never messed with this system and I don't feel comfortable messing with the lines connecting the shocks (that is if they need to be disconnected).

2) with the 3" lift, I've read that the alignment may be off and the use of UCA are recommended. Which ones are most people getting to get the job done? TC, Icon, modified OEM?

3) my suspension has 225k miles. I know i can get FJ suspension but it will raise it up even more with the spacer on top. So are there alternatives that I can get that are compatible with the XREAS or keep what I have?

4) anything else I may need besides sway bar relocate and brake lines?

With that many miles scrap the XREAS. You have to replace all 4 shocks at once, but it's worth it. You can get Bilsteins for cheap, or go through the roof or anywhere in between.
All XREAS is is a hydraulic tube (brake line) connecting the shocks in an X pattern. You can unbolt it easily, or cut it easier. There is a thread about it. Don't let it scare you.

I've read about it, but haven't found a thread showing pictures. I know its in a cross oattern, but apparently there are disconnect points. I'm sure I could get under and find them, but I would rather make sure. I did think about getting rid of the system, but didnt know how good the system was. The suspension still feels good and not bouncy. But it's paid off now so looking to modify it some.

Talked to Tanner at toytec lifts and pretty much decided on the icon stage 2 kit. But that was before I started reading about all the XREAS stuff. But, after more readings, it seems many have taken it off and havent looked back. May just stay on track to get the stage 2 kit.

Stage 2 will be awesome for you and a vast improvement over stock. There are couplings less than a foot from the shock that you can disconnect. Personally I put a bucket under mine and cut the line. Little fluid comes out and your good. It's really easy to pull the lines out as there are just a few plastic clips holding them on and 2 bolts on the slave cylinder on the frame rail. Super easy I promise!

Long time lurker, 1st time poster. (-:

I am a lucky man as my 12 YO XREAS equipped T4R with 112,000 finally decided to leak and got wife's green light to upgrade the suspension. After reading through many posts and talking with Slee and Toytec, I've narrowed my choices to 2 variations of OME and was hoping for feedback.

1) OME
- Front 895 coils with 90021 struts and trim spacer
- Rear 895 coils with 60004 struts
2) OME/Toytec
- Front 895 coils with 90021 struts and trim spacer
- Rear Toytec Superflex Or Superflex HD springs and 60020 struts

After reading many great posts I have a couple of lingering questions. Part of my confusion is that many posts are referencing springs without mention of what struts are being used other than Bilstein 5100's. It appears that the struts have a direct effect on ride in addition to spring choice. I would appreciate feedback and/or your opinions if you will.

1) If I go OME do the newer "softer" valved struts (90021 and 60004) create a less "harsh" ride than their predecessors (specifically rear) I don't mind firm and want stiffer than stock.
2) If I add the top plate spacers on either mod will I end up with a negative rake (nose high).

This is not my DD, but it is not always driven with load when used. I do some wheeling, but no rock crawling. The T4R is used to hammer up I-70 in search of powder in the winter, hauling mountain bikes and other summer toys, including a pup, in the summer. I am not adding the diff drop as my alignment is in spec with my current lift. I am planning on putting my Airlift Bags back in to help with towing (if necessasary after mod-I only want to drop rear end once). I'm not interested in coil over (Icon or Toytec Ultimate) as I have no interest in F$&ing with ride height after install.

What do you guys think? Full OME Med, OME/Toytec, Top Plate Spacers?
Thanks!!!!!