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Old 05-04-2016, 12:26 PM #46
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Quote:
Originally Posted by drapaki View Post
are you saying you "have all the parts"? I might be interested in most of the parts.
Yes I have all the parts
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Old 05-04-2016, 01:10 PM #47
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if you can post some pics, i'd be interested in making a package deal offer!
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Old 05-04-2016, 09:53 PM #48
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Quote:
Originally Posted by drapaki View Post
if you can post some pics, i'd be interested in making a package deal offer!
Give me you email address I will send you pictures. I don't know how upload pictures here

Thanks
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Old 05-24-2016, 11:46 PM #49
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If somebody is interested in this modifications

I sold my 4Runner and I have al the part

Thanks let me know
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Old 07-28-2016, 11:41 PM #50
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2016 4Runner Automatic Headlight install

Quote:
Originally Posted by Asmara View Post
I wanted (actually the wife casually mentioned that it would be nice one day - project authorized!) automatic headlights like on the limited and did some searching in the forums. I found this thread about DRLs that also included a couple of posts (here and here) where Rando described installing automatic headlights. Rando really paved the way but here is my version; all in one place for easy reference.

I think if you have a local pick and pull, you can get some of the parts much more cheaply used, especially the light sensor which was used in tons of Toyota and Lexus vehicles.

PARTS
Limited Headlight Dimmer OEM: 84140-35150 $109
a. Aftermarket – Standard Motor CBS1240
b. Airtex/Wells - 1S3999
(note: There are lots of similar ones for Limiteds on eBay but they don’t have the automatic headlight switch. Check the aftermarket part numbers. RockAuto had the cheapest ones.)
Light Sensor OEM: 89121-12010 $133 (got mine for $99 used on ebay)
Wire Harness
If you have standard climate control you need: OEM 82142-35020 $10
If you have dual climate control you need: OEM 82142-35030 $10 (thanks ThreeFiveO)
Note: As you’ll see in the install, I got the wrong three-wire dual climate control harness which required some minor modification for my ’04. No splicing required if you buy the correct wiring harness for you vehicle.
red butt connectors (X2) (but only if you get the wrong part )
TOOLS
Phillips screwdriver or 10mm socket
Butt connector Crimper
Wire Stripper

TIME
No more than two hours
Once you complete this mod, the tremendous burden of determining if it is dark enough and then removing your arm from the steering wheel to turn that little switch will be removed from your life. You do have to double check the switch if you ever valet park your car or you might end up like this poor woman.

When in auto, the green headlight indicator is only illuminated when the headlights are turned on by the system. There's a two or three second delay before the sensor turns on the headlights when the sensor goes from daylight to dark presumable to keep the headlights from flashing every time you're in a shadow.

STEP BY STEP
  • Assemble the parts.
  • Remove the plastic covering the instrument cluster. It just pulls off. Helps a bit if you pull out the top of the lower cover but you don’t have to unscrew the bottom screws.
  • Remove the speedo cluster. 3 screws plus the 2 screws that hold the wiring connectors to the back of the cluster.
(cont.)
Hi Asmara,

I'm new to the forum by finding your post on Google - thanks! So like yourself my wife has voiced words about no automatic headlights. So
doing some searching I ran across your post with pics, awesome!
We have a 2016 4Runner SR5 Premium - I yanked the halogen headlamps out and installed Morimoto HID's for the headlights and I'm running VLED LED headlights are for the foglights. What a remarkable difference!
Now I need to get the automatic headlights done and I'm finished. I need some guidance on the Wire harness for the climate control. This is what I have so far:
From Toyotapartsdeal.com
Toyota Part No.: 89121-50020
SENSOR, AUTOMATIC LIGHT CONTROL $115.53
Toyota Part No.: 84140-35171
Limited SWITCH ASSY, HEADLAM $111.14

Thanks in advance.
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Old 07-29-2016, 06:05 PM #51
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Old 08-04-2016, 08:15 PM #52
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I believe these are the correct part numbers based on the 2016 LTD/TRD Pro:
89121-50020 SENSOR, LIGHT CONTRO $115.53

84140-35171 SWITCH ASSY, HEADLAM $111.14

82140-35020 WIRE ASSY, INSTRUMEN $9.53

If anyone has better or if any of these part number are not correct let me know.

Thanks
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Old 08-05-2016, 04:30 AM #53
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This is a mod I actually need, not just want.

I just found out about this route, but I almost make my own photo-sensor setup with an Arduino... anyone ever play with one of those?
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Old 08-10-2016, 12:17 PM #54
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I've had this mod done for a while, and though its a luxury, I do enjoy it.

One thing I have noticed is that when left in the Auto position and I start the engine, sometimes, only one headlight will go on (almost always the left). In order to have the right one on too, I need to turn the headlights all the way to off, then back on again (or all the way back to Auto). It's not that big a deal, but to me, defeats the purpose of having the Auto feature.

I live in super hot and sunny Southern California so it's not due to cold weather in the morning when I start the vehicle. I have checked the ballasts and bulbs and everything is fine. Running Morimoto 35w, so the power draw is still pretty small. Is there a way to fix this? I have an almost 6 year old battery from the dealer...would a newer one with more power solve this issue?
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Old 08-10-2016, 08:34 PM #55
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Quote:
Originally Posted by matthewkristof View Post
I've had this mod done for a while, and though its a luxury, I do enjoy it.

One thing I have noticed is that when left in the Auto position and I start the engine, sometimes, only one headlight will go on (almost always the left). In order to have the right one on too, I need to turn the headlights all the way to off, then back on again (or all the way back to Auto). It's not that big a deal, but to me, defeats the purpose of having the Auto feature.

I live in super hot and sunny Southern California so it's not due to cold weather in the morning when I start the vehicle. I have checked the ballasts and bulbs and everything is fine. Running Morimoto 35w, so the power draw is still pretty small. Is there a way to fix this? I have an almost 6 year old battery from the dealer...would a newer one with more power solve this issue?
To fix the engine start issue... you can get a relay which is wired normally open and install it in line to the main power for the ballasts. The trigger wire can be connected to the starter 12v line which would shut off both ballasts during engine cranking... This makes sure any power available goes to engine cranking... and also power cycles both ballasts after the engine is started which is what you are doing anyways. This feature is found on some dual battery ACRs... its called Start Isolation, you are just making a DIY version of it.

The 2nd issue... not sure if you are trying to say you have some type of parasitic drain... or if you just have an aging battery. At 6 years its time for a new cell regardless.
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Old 08-11-2016, 11:51 AM #56
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I really need to write complete responses before I post... :/

I actually do have a relay connected to this. I originally installed it without the relay, but after reading responses from people on this forum about their safety, I decided to install one. I achieve the same results with or without the relay.

I currently don't have any battery drain (knock on wood). Never had any problems with it. Just noting that the battery is 6 years old, it's the second one since I purchased the vehicle; maybe that makes a difference when running the HIDs straight from the battery without the engine being on. Guess I should be looking into a new battery regardless...
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Old 08-11-2016, 05:34 PM #57
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Quote:
Originally Posted by matthewkristof View Post
I really need to write complete responses before I post... :/

I actually do have a relay connected to this. I originally installed it without the relay, but after reading responses from people on this forum about their safety, I decided to install one. I achieve the same results with or without the relay.

I currently don't have any battery drain (knock on wood). Never had any problems with it. Just noting that the battery is 6 years old, it's the second one since I purchased the vehicle; maybe that makes a difference when running the HIDs straight from the battery without the engine being on. Guess I should be looking into a new battery regardless...
I think you misunderstood my post... the relay isn't to control the normal function and power distribution under regular conditions...

This would be a 2nd relay in addition to the one you have, wired in a normally (ON) position, where you would energize to turn off.

This way during engine cranking (12v Starter to trigger relay), it turns off the lights, solving the problem you are having because you are needing to power cycle the lights.
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Old 08-15-2016, 11:47 AM #58
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Yes apparently I didn't understand correctly. :/

How do I add a second relay? The first is wired straight to the battery...would the second one be wired to an always on circuit, and then wire that directly to the headlights?
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Old 08-28-2016, 02:06 AM #59
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2016 Auto On/Off

To accomplish the removal and replacement means I have to remove the steering wheel.
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Old 09-28-2016, 02:11 PM #60
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I replaced my battery (was starting to go) hoping it would solve the problem but I am having the same issue as before...when in the Auto position, driver side headlight and fog light come on, but passenger side ones do not. Flipping the stock all the way off to on solves it...but hoping to get it to work in the Auto position.

A previous member mentioned adding a second relay in conjunction with the first one...anyone know how I can do that?
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