Couldn't start it today and noticed something weird.

That is when I turn the key to the start position, only the navigation thing restarts and nothing else will happen, if I remembered it correctly, that's what it should be doing when you turn the key to the start position when the engine is running.

I also noticed that the CEL and the A/T OIL temp warning lights are not on. To my knowledge the CEL and A/T OIL temp lights should be on when the engine is not running?

Checked the battery voltage through the cig lighter and it's like 12.2v while key in On position and will drop to 0 while key in start position.

Update:

All the fuses under the dash seems to be okay.

Tried to jump it, volt meter confirmed a ~14V voltage between the terminals of jumping cable but it still won't do anything (No click, No turn, No sound).

So what do you guys think is wrong?

Thanks

bump for help

So does it crank?

No it doesn't.

Even when it is connected to the jumping car.

Checked the EFI fuse and relay as well as some other fuses and all seem to be fine.

What's really weird is that the CEL never come on even when the "self-testing" is happening (it would turn on breifly before having the can't start issue)

Starter or ECU is gone or electrical input to starter is fouled up somewhere.

Is there a way to send direct power to starter and by-pass ECU to test it?

Yeah just use a jumper wire from the positive side of the battery to the starter. I would disconnect the factory starter wire when you do it though. On a similar note I would check for a good ground with a multimeter while you are doing that. I could be an ECU but typically when an ECU goes bad it will turn the CEL on yet there will be no fault codes not the other way around. Another thing you can do is test for voltage at the starter when turning the key to start. If theres no voltage then work your way back through the system till you get to the ECU. Do you have a mainteance manual?

Don't blow your 120 Alternator fuse!!!!!!!!! - Tacoma World Forums

check that..have seen this before on camrys, and other yotas if not connected properly with jumper cables..

PS-Battery should have more than 12.2v. Thats low.

Thanks a lot but it seems that the starter is buried deeply between the 2 cylinder banks? So is there a way to get to its contacts without taken the intake manifold out?

I have a pdf maintenance manual and it mentioned that a lot needs to be removed in order to get to the starter.

Thanks, I'll try to see if I could reach the starter. It seems to be in an inconvenient place.

Checked it alternator fuse and it is okay...

LOL...I'm going to go ahead and disagree with you there. I'd say its pretty normal for a 12v battery to have 12v. Now when the engine is running, your correct it should have more like 14v.

@OP...Does you T4R have a remote starter, if so maybe theres a fault with it?? Try a different key, maybe the transponder is screwed up. You could also try putting it in neutral to see if that makes a difference, maybe the ecu is not sensing the shifter in park.

I don't know buts its little things to try before having to pay for tow truck to get it to a shop

Good Luck

Thanks for the suggestions.

There's no remote starter on it and I tried all my 3 keys just now, in both N and P, but no luck

The symptom is actually quite similar with the one in this thread

Engine electrical problem

in that the CEL won't come on when the key is turned from ACC to ON, and truck won't crank if the key is then turned to Start.

But jcpaoli stated that "If it doesn´t i stop and wait, some times hours, until the service engine light turns on while turning the key so it will start." but for me service engine light never turn on so it never start.

And it's the first time that I've seen this problem, never happened before.

Also noticed that if I push the hill-descent in while in 4Hi, nothing happens (the hill-descent light should flash).

So I suspect that it is ECU related and checked fuses/relays as well as the wires that are readily accessible by taking the glove box off and they seem to be just fine.



AAA could tow the truck for free but just wondering is it better to go directly to a dealership since they might have a much better knowledge in the electrical part of the truck or is it better to have a reputable 3rd party shop look at it since they probably also have their resources (on-line databases of diagrams and diagnostic manuals I guess? ) and might be much cheaper in a sense that it could be time-consuming to pin-point the actual problem?

This is what I would do.

1) Check the starter with direct battery power if you have the know-how to do it. If the starter cranks take it to TOYOTA directly as is some "ecu electrical" thing.

2) If the starter doesn't turn with direct power take it to your local guy to swap out the starter.

This is my thought process and my $0.02

Thanks but I looked and didn't see how could I approach the starter which is under the intake manifold

So still not sure about whether it's a bad starter or the ecu.

Which would you choose under such a situation? toyota or local guy?