I have an 04 sr5 with 105K...I replaced the passenger side caliper about 2.5 yrs ago with a parts plus version...

I have a pretty bad chatter when apppling the brakes...It is not constaint...just sporadic...which makes me believe it is not the rotors...pads are like 75%

last week i took the whole brake system apart...and 3 of the 4 pistons were frozen up...i worked them back and forth with soem Castle Thrush...and they seemd to me moving pretty freely...but a week later it was back to its old self...

So my questions are....

Could the new calpier have gone to pot so quickly?

When i was trying to free them up, one of the pistons popped right out...I put it back and blead the system...but couild i have done more damage?

Is there a lifetime warrenty calpier available? if so where?


any insight is great...

Where they NEW calipers or REBUILT calipers???

The only place I can buy new calipers around here is at the dealers.

And YES it can happen quickly. It's a poor design.

Yea. My autozone calipers have a lifetime warranty. Under that, I don't mind if I have to replace them 1 or 2 more times over the life of my ownership. It takes about 10 minutes per wheel and it is a good exercise to inspect the rotor.


I liked the autozone warranty, because it is computerized and linked to your phone. Other places required a receipt.. which you can lose.

yeah, but the bleeding process looks mighty tricky to me

(ign on, underhood pump runs, etc)

Bleeding process is NOT difficult at all. Very very very simple.

simple maybe,
but not very very very


Toyota 4Runner Brake Fluid Flush

Flush isn't bleeding.... if you are just popping off calipers and your fluid isn't nasty; no need to flush.

I replaced both front calipers and pads on the rear. Only needed to bleed the fronts, took all of about 2 minutes per wheel.

You should always do a flush when you do pads. There's a chance of getting air in there when ever you disconnect the brake line (which you have to do with this setup).

Yeah the design is not very good at all. I had both front calipers replaced by the dealer under my extended warranty. I check them about every six months or so to make sure they are not frozen. Had the driver's side replaced in Sep 2011. Passenger side about a year and a half prior to that. I'll probably be doing a check real soon.

Ok very entry level experience wise on my end....but why would you have to flush the fluid when changing pads? At no point did you introduce air to the system except in opening the reservoir cap and as long as the fluid didn't become contaminated or get low, why flush? Also, the instructions in the link above were very nice, but can't you just have someone else pump and hold for the front and just hold(electric pump will assist) for the back? Again, I am not a mechanic, this is just my understanding and I could be wrong. Thanks all!

That's exactly what I do. You can do it yourself..but much easier with 2 people.

When ever you open the bleeder valve...you run the risk of getting air in the system. Can't be helped. Will air always get in??? Probably not...but any air can degrade your braking ability.

What bleeder valve? When I change the pads the only thing I am opening is the reservoir. I am talking about pads only, not changing the calipers. Sorry I wasn't clear.

When you change the pads you should do the brake fluid as well

You should not push the pistons back in without opening the bleeder valve. You run the risk of hurting the ABS system if you don't open the bleeder valve.

ABS Brake Bleeding And ASE Study Guides

So while your method may prevent air from getting into the system you run the risk of hurting the ABS system. I wouldn't take that risk. Far easier and less risky to just open the bleeder valve and then bleed the brakes when done.

Thanks, I never new that. So basically just open the valve at each wheel to push the piston back in?