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Old 05-04-2016, 02:09 PM #16
Twrecks Twrecks is offline
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Help

Can you find the part number? Toyota Techs are going through mine right now and I'd like to save time and money if at all possible.

Same exact issue. Car doesn't recognize key. They are cutting a new key right now but sounds like that isn't gonna work.
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Old 06-30-2016, 01:42 PM #17
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i know this is an old thread, wanted to run my issue w the immobilizer by the forum.

not long ago, i noticed an issue, i would put the key in, turn the ignition and the car goes dead. no lights, no clock no key fob response.

i found that if i touch the ignition key to the positive terminal on the battery, the system comes back online and i can use the key fob and start the car...
this happens intermittently, sometimes it doesn't happen for a month and other times it happens 2-3 days in a row, usually just once in a day.

i had thought it was a bad key, bit after reading this thread maybe i was mistaken...
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Old 10-20-2017, 08:54 PM #18
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Was this issue ever solved? I'm experiencing the same issue on an 06' V6 4Runner and I've verified the following

Battery at 13V
All ACC, IG1, IG2, ST signals being sent to ECU
At Starter Relay I'm seeing 13V Battery on Pin 5, and 6.50V at Pin 1 from ECU when cranking (ALLDATA says 6V+ is good signal from ECU)

Ground wire OHM checked good
Positive cable checked good

Pulled entire harness from battery to starter, scuffed connections, OHM checked good

Replaced starter and relay still nothing....

Any input would be greatly appreciated as I feel I'm missing something obvious here.
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Old 01-09-2018, 03:11 PM #19
Allstar Auto Allstar Auto is offline
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2015 4runner

I’m working on one right now that a customer bought. It was in a medium front end collision just body damage tho. It’s a TRD Pro competent decked out and awesome. Won’t fire up tho, cranks just fine. The immobilizer light flashes and there’s no spark. I’ve been scouwering the web trying to learn about this immobilizer system and haven’t learned much aside from I may need to buy a scanner justfir this. I need some help for sure.
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Old 01-10-2018, 07:05 PM #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Allstar Auto View Post
I’m working on one right now that a customer bought. It was in a medium front end collision just body damage tho. It’s a TRD Pro competent decked out and awesome. Won’t fire up tho, cranks just fine. The immobilizer light flashes and there’s no spark. I’ve been scouwering the web trying to learn about this immobilizer system and haven’t learned much aside from I may need to buy a scanner justfir this. I need some help for sure.
OK, here goes:

You will have to find a computer that has a hacked version of Toyota Techstream on it and get an Xhorse VIM. Then you can get into all the of the fancy Toyota immobilizer settings like "reset immobilizer", "register key" etc. Without this software I seriously doubt that any 3rd party code reader will have any luck getting into the immobilizer portion of the ECU.

By the way, I have already done all this with my own 05 4runner, so I know its possible. I successfully erased all keys and reprogrammed new keys from Amazon as the master key.
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Old 08-02-2018, 05:17 PM #21
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Hey, I hope you get this message. Where is that chip located?
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Old 02-11-2020, 08:05 PM #22
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Took my vehicle to dealer for recall and when they were done they tried bringing it out but wouldn't start. Then it would start and shut off immediately. I said it's never done that and they needed to take another look... Almost an hour later they tell me its definitely an aftermarket kill switch disabling the fuel pump. They can't do anything because it's aftermarket and I'll have to find the hidden switch and turn it off. As they repeatedly kept cranking the starter to demonstrate it until I asked for key back.

I said I read about the limiteds having immobilizers and asked if they were sure that didn't get set off while being worked on. No no it's definitely aftermarket. Even when I said it's only PO was an older women in a small town and found it hard to believe they had a fuel cut off installed.

They went back to the person who worked on it and 10 minutes later gave me a code number that doesn't have any Google results and this time it was an immobilizer code no idea how the "definitely hidden fuel cutoff switch I must have hit, when I wasnt anywhere near the vehicle as apparently I'm Houdini in disguise, reason was so quickly dispensed with.

I have a remote start and a panic button and after a quick Google search it said the immobilizer will engage if it's pressed and I heard multiple alarms go off while waiting. Long story short I'm not going back there again and how they didn't seem to know how to reset an immobilizer is beyond me. They didn't try unhooking the battery, or tell me alarm might have gone off, plus making up a reason and expecting me to just leave in an unsafe vehicle that was fine before they got it.

I was expected to just drive 15 miles home during rush hour in a car that wouldn't start or stay running.
I pulled the battery out of my remote start fob and pulled a few power fuses for a couple minutes and it fired right up and was fine all the way home and multiple restarts.

2 minutes of Google got the answer and solution so how multiple dealership techs and mechanics couldn't figure it out for nearly an hour is beyond me especially when it was someone in the department that most likely engaged it by hamfisting my key and fob together.

Rant over. At least the recall got done
These fancy antitheft systems might be more annoying than they are useful.
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Last edited by Charliehorse; 02-12-2020 at 05:53 AM. Reason: Typos
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Old 02-26-2021, 10:02 AM #23
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“... pulled the main power outlet sensor and voila the car turned on!”

Quote:
Originally Posted by commonsense View Post
i changed my starter and battery this morning and when i reconnected the battery cable the vehicle immobilizer activated causing the vehicle to not start thus leaving me stranded but hours later and seriously thousands of phone calls to mechanics toyota and toyota corporate office none of them were any help they all told me i needed new keys or i needed a new ecu or the car was no longer any good so i got to thinking and putting commonsense first thus how i gave myself that screen name lol i opened the hood and opened the fuse box and i disconnected everything that said power from fuses to sensors i pulled the main power outlet sensor and voila the car turned on
What year & engine is your ride? What is the “...main power outlet sensor?” Where is it in the truck? What does it look like?

Thanks... Tony
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Last edited by gp4Jesus; 02-27-2021 at 08:31 AM.
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Old 03-24-2022, 01:27 PM #24
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Kinda late and not sure but my Valet key will start my 4runner, the key is Gray with a stamped dot in the metal portion of the key. IT WILL NOT allow the security "ECU" to go into program mode, but it will start my 2006 4runner. I was under the impression that a "Valet" key would only open the doors, NOT START the engine. Any body else experiance this issue??
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Old 03-24-2022, 06:33 PM #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Capt Kirk View Post
Kinda late and not sure but my Valet key will start my 4runner, the key is Gray with a stamped dot in the metal portion of the key. IT WILL NOT allow the security "ECU" to go into program mode, but it will start my 2006 4runner. I was under the impression that a "Valet" key would only open the doors, NOT START the engine. Any body else experiance this issue??
Not sure where you got that info for the gray "Valet" key, the gray valet key WILL unlock the doors, the gray valet key WILL start the vehicle....but the gray valet key WILL NOT unlock the glove box so the "valet" can't steal anything of value you have locked in the glove box, the purpose of the valet key is to allow the valet to take your vehicle park it and then return the vehicle to you when you're ready to leave, but doesn't allow him/her to go into the glove box to get at your valuables.

This info about the gray valet key not unlocking the glove box and using it for a valet is in your owner's manual but it's referred too as the gray "Sub" key.

To program another key you need to use a "Master" key which is the black key, a gray valet key will not work for programming a new key.

Both the Master key and the Sub "Valet" key have chips in the head to allow them to start the vehicle.
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