02-15-2019, 09:28 AM
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#76
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Join Date: Mar 2016
Location: Charlotte, NC
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RCs4Runner
I have no clue how you got that many tools in that little area.
EDIT:
Finally got it. I ended up using twine to keep the spring compressed while I slide the parking brake shoe back on.
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^^^This.
This image helped me alot. Drove off a few days ago and found I had broken a pin. Ordered parts and put new hardware in today. I essentially did the same, but used a trim removal tool and a segment of golf club shaft.
I preassembled the spring/pin/cups, then compressed with my trim tool for the leading pad. It slides on the pin and stays put.
Works perfect to get behind the spring/cups and slide into place. Still takes several tries, but its about as good as its gonna get. Didnt screw with the needle nose pliers, seemed more complicated.
For the trailing shoe. I used a 6 inch shaft of a golf club through the hub hole. The part right after the head that is narrow. Worked well.
Doing some of the reassembly a bit out of order gives you more wiggle room. Before you put in the spring/cup/pin on the trailing shoe (the non straight pin), hang the set the pad in there and install all the top side hardware/springs. It holds the assembly so it doesnt fall out, but gives you some wiggle room.
BUT put the star adjuster and spring on LAST.
You DO NOT have to have the ABS sensor out to do the front side shoe. If you put the pin in first, then the hardware, then your trim tool, then the shoe, its pretty simple. Takes a couple tries. Sure taking it out gives you more room, but also makes the procedure longer.
Last edited by Benny123; 02-16-2019 at 06:00 AM.
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02-15-2019, 01:48 PM
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#77
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Junior Member
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Join Date: Jan 2019
Location: Minnesota
Posts: 8
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Junior Member
Join Date: Jan 2019
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So, I've read through this entire thread and a couple of others. In the very first post, the instructions say to adjust STARADJUST downward. That's still confusing to me. What's the proper way to adjust it...."toward" or "away" from you. This summer, my parking brake was non-existent. So, I took the wheel off, lined up the hub and was able to adjust the STARADJUST. When I did it (if I recall correctly), I adjusted it downward "toward" me until I could no longer spin the rear hub/axle. Then, I adjusted it "away" from me a few times until the hub would spin again. Afterwards, parking brake and it worked perfectly.
My second question is, how much should a person adjust the STARADJUST in order to safely remove the rear rotor? I've read that some people adjusted 10 rotations and it still messed/bent things up? Should I adjust it (toward or away from me...whichever direction is to lossen it) until it can no longer be adjusted? I am not sure if too much loosening can mess any of the springs up. Thanks in advance for any input!
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02-15-2019, 04:24 PM
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#78
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Join Date: Mar 2016
Location: Charlotte, NC
Posts: 47
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Member
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As far as the first question, even the dealer instructions are confusing. I used the 2006 4runner service manual and went upwards to "loosen" the rotor on the passenger side. Wouldn't come off no matter what. As a last ditch effort I went the other way and it worked. Make your best choice and if it won't come off try the other way before giving up.
Someone else can chime on in #2.
Last edited by Benny123; 02-15-2019 at 05:45 PM.
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02-15-2019, 04:57 PM
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#79
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Senior Member
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Join Date: Mar 2016
Location: Massachusetts
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I have done this on my boat trailer and on a dodge. adjusting is up or down .. adjust up and count the clicks .. 3 clicks then check if the rotor will start to bind . then if so click in the opposite 10 clicks .. do one side at a time .. then with both set at the same 10 clicks see if the park brake pedal goes down about half way ... then IMO that is good.. pedal too high not good .. if a bit lower than half way no problem.
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02-15-2019, 06:07 PM
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#80
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Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: USA
Posts: 78
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 4RRUSMN
My second question is, how much should a person adjust the STARADJUST in order to safely remove the rear rotor? I've read that some people adjusted 10 rotations and it still messed/bent things up? Should I adjust it (toward or away from me...whichever direction is to lossen it) until it can no longer be adjusted? I am not sure if too much loosening can mess any of the springs up. Thanks in advance for any input!
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Adjust it all the way. You will not hurt anything.
After reinstalling the rotor turn the star wheel the other way, spinning the rotor by hand every few turns of the star wheel. Back it off just enough that the rotor/hub spin without resistance from the shoes.
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08-12-2019, 08:34 AM
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#81
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Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Chester County PA
Posts: 9
Real Name: John
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CALVAN TOYOTA BRAKE SPRING TOOL CV364
$ 20.77
Special tip is designed to engage the shoe hold down spring cup on Toyota vehicles
This application requires a lower profile brake spring tool with more a longer reach.
The user can put the tip of this tool through the access hole and engage the spring cup on 2000 and current Tacoma, Tundra, FJ Cruiser, 4Runner, Land Cruiser, and Camry.
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01-15-2020, 11:37 AM
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#82
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Join Date: Nov 2019
Location: Calgary
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Sorry to dig up an oldish thread. I'm having issues with my parking brake. Having taken it to a mechanic they have said the problem is siezed cables and that to replace them all would be $1000 ish (cad) as they have to drop the fuel tank.
Having read this thread it's helped me somewhat and most likely the level of workmanship is above me level, but I wanted to ask if there are any obvious points I can get to to try and unseize the cables? They would have only seized in the last month or so, so potentially may come loose with a bit of spray, heat and gentle persuasion.
Can anyone recommend a course of action , or at least a good starting point?
Cheers
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01-15-2020, 12:30 PM
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#83
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Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Cumming, GA
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Real Name: Steven
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You do NOT have to lower the fuel tank to replace the driver side parking brake cable. You have a total of 3 cables, 1 from the pedal assembly and then it splits into 2 separate cables. The front cable hardly ever needs replaced, just the rear right/left cables. The book time to replace the rear cables is 5.0 hours. The parts should run you no more than $175.00.
The cables either are stretched or seized up between the cable and sleeve. It is not that difficult of a job to do, just time consuming.
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01-16-2020, 05:17 PM
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#84
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Quote:
Originally Posted by toyo
You do NOT have to lower the fuel tank to replace the driver side parking brake cable. You have a total of 3 cables, 1 from the pedal assembly and then it splits into 2 separate cables. The front cable hardly ever needs replaced, just the rear right/left cables. The book time to replace the rear cables is 5.0 hours. The parts should run you no more than $175.00.
The cables either are stretched or seized up between the cable and sleeve. It is not that difficult of a job to do, just time consuming.
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That is good to know, thank you. The garage said all 3 had siezed unfortunately.
Do you know if there is a common place they tend to sieze, or will it just be randomly along the cable casing?
I will try to inspect when the weather warms up here.
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01-18-2020, 04:11 PM
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#85
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Join Date: Jun 2015
Location: Austin, TX
Posts: 293
Real Name: Tyler
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DG&BRM
The pins are just pivot points for the shoes that also hold them in place. The lever is what actuates the spreading motion. That middle strut piece at the top as well as the star wheel at the bottom simply help keep the shoes aligned on the same plane. The spring on the top piece helps apply pressure to keep it spread outward. We are both way overthinking this lol but it's my job as a product Designer to be this way I guess
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If I can dig deeper in to the strut referenced above, on drum brakes (primary, not parking brakes as on my 4th gen) that I’ve worked on in the past, these struts usually have an oblong spring wrapped around them. Is this spring necessary?
I ask because I had my rear wheel bearings replaced by a shop just before thanksgiving and ever since I’ve occasionally noticed a metallic rattle I the rear end. I typically do all of my own maintenance but rear bearings are too specialized. Point being, I jacked up the rear end ad tapped away at various points all over the place and couldn’t shake anything so I figured it was within the drum assembly. I finally got a chance to pull the rotors and the only loose piece I can see is that strut between the shoes, and it does not have the oblong spring. I thought I had a diagram of the drum assembly but I cannot find it now. I am going to take it back to the shop and have them correct it because I had them replace the parking shoes and hardware when they replace the bearings, so this is on them. I just want to make sure there should be a spring on that strut before I go raising hell.
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02-11-2020, 03:24 AM
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#86
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bigshankhank
If I can dig deeper in to the strut referenced above, on drum brakes (primary, not parking brakes as on my 4th gen) that I’ve worked on in the past, these struts usually have an oblong spring wrapped around them. Is this spring necessary?
I ask because I had my rear wheel bearings replaced by a shop just before thanksgiving and ever since I’ve occasionally noticed a metallic rattle I the rear end. I typically do all of my own maintenance but rear bearings are too specialized. Point being, I jacked up the rear end ad tapped away at various points all over the place and couldn’t shake anything so I figured it was within the drum assembly. I finally got a chance to pull the rotors and the only loose piece I can see is that strut between the shoes, and it does not have the oblong spring. I thought I had a diagram of the drum assembly but I cannot find it now. I am going to take it back to the shop and have them correct it because I had them replace the parking shoes and hardware when they replace the bearings, so this is on them. I just want to make sure there should be a spring on that strut before I go raising hell.
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Yes, that spring is necessary. I realize this post is a couple weeks old, so hopefully you've got it back in order. On that strut, there's a longer finger on the outside facing the rear, which doesn't engage much, requiring that spring to keep the rear part engaged. Hope you're all set!
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02-13-2020, 10:57 AM
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#87
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Join Date: Jun 2015
Location: Austin, TX
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Real Name: Tyler
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SluiceboxSlim
Yes, that spring is necessary. I realize this post is a couple weeks old, so hopefully you've got it back in order. On that strut, there's a longer finger on the outside facing the rear, which doesn't engage much, requiring that spring to keep the rear part engaged. Hope you're all set!
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Well I took it back to the shop that did the rear bearings & parking brake with little hope of them correcting it. They swore up and down that there is no spring on that strut despite the factory parts diagram showing it, which tells me that A: they forgot to install it while struggling with the parking brakes the first time and B: they no longer have the parts from the spring kit that they ordered (if in fact they replaced the springs at all) and weren't willing to buy another set just to correct their original omission, nor were they even willing to admit a mistake at all. I even told them I would pay for a new spring kit, but they continued to insist that spring wasn't needed. So yeah, it still rattles, and I will have to break it down and install it myself.
My philosophy on mechanics is, while I rarely use them, I will submit on bigger projects and will give any mechanic a chance. If they screw it up, I'll give them a chance to fix it. If they don't get it right on the 2nd pass, I'll just never use them again. To not even acknowledge that they made a mistake? Yeah that's a bad review and as much bad word of mouth that I can generate. I may not contribute a lot of dollars and so my business rarely amounts to much, but I would happily send friends and even some of my irritating regular maintenance stuff to a shop if they give me the feeling that I could rely on them.
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02-13-2020, 11:56 AM
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#88
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bigshankhank
Well I took it back to the shop that did the rear bearings & parking brake with little hope of them correcting it. They swore up and down that there is no spring on that strut despite the factory parts diagram showing it, which tells me that A: they forgot to install it while struggling with the parking brakes the first time and B: they no longer have the parts from the spring kit that they ordered (if in fact they replaced the springs at all) and weren't willing to buy another set just to correct their original omission, nor were they even willing to admit a mistake at all. I even told them I would pay for a new spring kit, but they continued to insist that spring wasn't needed. So yeah, it still rattles, and I will have to break it down and install it myself.
My philosophy on mechanics is, while I rarely use them, I will submit on bigger projects and will give any mechanic a chance. If they screw it up, I'll give them a chance to fix it. If they don't get it right on the 2nd pass, I'll just never use them again. To not even acknowledge that they made a mistake? Yeah that's a bad review and as much bad word of mouth that I can generate. I may not contribute a lot of dollars and so my business rarely amounts to much, but I would happily send friends and even some of my irritating regular maintenance stuff to a shop if they give me the feeling that I could rely on them.
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gotta appreciate quality mechanics
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05-24-2021, 08:43 PM
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#89
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Join Date: May 2021
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Just a hack here, but if you compress the spring lightly in a vice and tie it with a THIN piece of copper wire, on two sides. It goes in place real easy,the pin clip is easy to rotate, and then snip the wire and pull it out. Took me 30 seconds once I tied the spring
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05-24-2021, 08:53 PM
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#90
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The star wheel on the right side is a reversethread, that way when you adjust either side, turning the star wheel up opens the spread, down closes it
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