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Old 03-07-2017, 08:49 PM #31
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Anyone think you could attach a RTT to the stock Sport Edition rack? I suspect the cross pieces are not strong enough, but what about the bars themselves?
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Old 03-07-2017, 10:01 PM #32
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I spread the 2 cross bars as far apart as they go and ratchet strap a fishing kayak. It rests on the "spoiler" but I get a lot of use out of it. I did have some Yakima attachments but I never used them so I let em go. Depends on what you're trying to do. Make it work for you or get something that will, but before you detach I'd look at aftermarket attachments that use the oem rails.


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Old 03-07-2017, 10:15 PM #33
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Factory rack is pretty awesome once you get a cargo box... mine is designed to latch on to the factory cross-bars. Its basically a very simple C channel type clamp... I can install it myself in less than 3 min. Empty its light and manageable.

I was the same as you, it sounds expensive until you actually get one and start using it...

I got lucky and got one used for $100 but after using it on two long road trips, I would buy it full price again if I had to.

For the amount of space I get on top its an incredible value... and considering space inside is at a premium, it was a huge upgrade for me. Might not be the most stylish option but it works a lot better than it looks... and that also takes into account adding weight up top and aerodynamics. (It was a lot better than a flat rack in terms of both)

I have to go off memory but this was my carrier box inventory for that trip...

1 x Craftsman tool bag stuffed with tools
1 x Viair 400P Air Compressor
2 x MaxxTrac traction pads
1 x Sleeping Bag
1 x Sleeping Mat
1 x Coleman 3 Person Ground Tent
1 x Shovel
1 x Fishing Pole
1 x Laundry Bag with Dirty Clothes
...along with other small bits and bobs scattered in spaces around the edges.



Since then... I got a flat rack but if I am honest about it I do miss my cargo box at times... Its a lot difficult to load up a flat rack with loose goods like I have above all while keeping it secure from wind, rain, weather, and even theft depending on what we are talking about...

I miss the ability to just open it up and toss something in.

I still have a carrier, but I need to fabricate a new mount so I can keep using it. Flat rack has its own advantages and disadvantages, but until I get my cargo box back it feels like I end up carrying less stuff sometimes.

Flat rack has been great for pelican cases and folding tables... basically larger things that are easier to tie down. It really is a different application... think about what you want and the performance impact as well. For all those bulky soft goods you want out of the cabin, nothing beats these cargo carries in my opinion. Loading it that way also has the least amount of impact on handling and performance, at least that how I see it from my own experiences.


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Old 03-07-2017, 11:09 PM #34
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BCfish View Post
To me it is useless I can't even put my tin boat up there which weighs a little less than 200lbs. I'm looking at getting a custom roof rack made up if I can't find anything that will work.
You a powerlifter? Pretty impressive you can hoist a 200LB boat on top of a 4R. Just joking around with ya.

The factory rack works great for mounting up my Thule box for snowboarding, or hauling kid's stuff on getaways.
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Old 03-09-2017, 08:58 AM #35
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Stock rack with tred pros mounted with rok straps, neoprene wrapped the crossbars to dampen any rubbing/sound.

2 1.75gal rotopax on locking mounts, home made aluminum bracket mounts to underside of Yamika mighty mounts for a low profile mount.

60" hi lift mounted straight through the stock cross bars. I can confirm that they do in fact have aluminum structural supports inside of them.





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Old 07-18-2017, 10:07 AM #36
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Quote:
Originally Posted by blackoutt View Post
Stock rack with tred pros mounted with rok straps, neoprene wrapped the crossbars to dampen any rubbing/sound.

2 1.75gal rotopax on locking mounts, home made aluminum bracket mounts to underside of Yamika mighty mounts for a low profile mount.

60" hi lift mounted straight through the stock cross bars. I can confirm that they do in fact have aluminum structural supports inside of them.





Thoroughly tested this setup on a 2 week trip to tour the northeastern states. It was fine on the interstate but on big hits the rotopax mount would flex and hit the roof under the weight of the full fuel cans. Then on the logging roads in Maine the stock roof rack shook apart, there appeared to be rubber washers that crumbled with age on the bolts that attach the crossbars to their sliding end mounts. Once tightened they worked their way loose again, I'm guessing that they just vibrated pockets into the crossbar. By the end of the trip everything was rattling and shaking around up there. Sure I could try to fix it but at this point I think I'm going to full rack route for more usefulness anyway. It almost served it's purpose though! 4 gallons of fuel, treds, and hi lift is just too much weight for trail running on a stock rack.
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Old 07-18-2017, 01:53 PM #37
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Quote:
Originally Posted by YetiX View Post
Anyone think you could attach a RTT to the stock Sport Edition rack? I suspect the cross pieces are not strong enough, but what about the bars themselves?
I personally wouldn't. I have a RTT, but got a Prinsu to put it on. I wanted it to sit closer to the roof and feel it attaches much more securely since the cross braces bow a little on the SE rack. I did mount an awning utilizing these mounts when I had my SE rack. I still have them but don't use them since I got rid of my sport rack. If anyone is looking for a way to mount an awning with a stock SE rack let me know. I'll make ya a deal!

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Old 07-19-2017, 04:24 PM #38
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Quote:
Originally Posted by laufer View Post
For my first three-week scenic backcountry driving trip this past July, I mounted two 4-gallon Rotopax cans and a pair of TRED 1100s on the roof. One design goal was to use the factory roof rack with minimal extra hardware. The other design goal was to make everything removable for urban driving.

Parts list for mounting Rotopax cans:
  • 4x Yakima MightyMounts 23H (discontinued but still available on Amazon)
  • 1x Rotopax universal mounting plate RX-UMP
  • 2x Rotopax 1/2/4-gallon extension RX-EXT
  • 2x Rotopax locking pack mount RX-LOX-PM
  • 2x Rotopax 4-gallon gas can RX-4G (or any combination of four 2-gallon cans)

I started by attaching the Rotopax extensions to the mounting plate. Then I inserted the hex nuts that came with the MightyMounts into the corresponding holes and used the Rotopax bolts and nuts to attach the mounting plate. This required moving the crossbars closer together from the recommended position after sliding on the MightyMounts. (Front = left)



I strongly recommend getting the more expensive locking mounts because the have a square center that stays in place when inserted into the openings in the cans even when the cans lose pressure owing to temperature or lower elevation. I lost a non-locking deluxe mount that came loose and fell off at highway speed. Also, it pays to shop around a bit for the various parts.

The complete setup includes a pair of TRED 1100 recovery boards.

Parts list for mounting recovery boards:
  • 1x 1 5/8" foam pipe insulation (tube)
  • 1x Orbit 20mil pipe wrap tape (does not dry out like duct tape)
  • 2x Keeper 8' by 1" 200 lbs lashing straps

Here is the complete setup in action:



This worked well for moderate backcountry driving on trails such as White Rim Road (Canyonlands NP) and Medano Pass Primitive Road (Great Sand Dunes NP). We never needed the gas but did use the TREDs quite a bit.
I think there needs to be a RotopaX Group Buy
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Old 08-25-2017, 09:17 PM #39
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Completely useless for any substantial weight... all plastic. even on the sport edition.

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Old 09-16-2017, 12:29 PM #40
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My solution - 4 years later

It is now 4 years since I posted the "Useless" thread. Well, I still have my 2007 SR5 and never did anything about the roof rack until today. I had considered expensive racks and accessories but I really wanted to solve a simple problem cheaply. Occasionally, I want haul some lumber, long pipe or a ladder and always struggled with how to stabilize the load from shifting left or right. I was always concerned that my load would slide off the rack when making a turn. This is what I did.

Based on feedback from others (thank you). I went to Amazon and bought some Yakima MightyMounts(23h) which fit my gen 4 rack pretty well. These are sill available. I had considered the new universal mount but they looked like overkill. I had some old 3" corner brackets (with Channel Lumber stickers, anyone remember Channel Lumber from the '80s?) in my junk hardware drawer. I used a 5/16th bit to drill bigger holes in the brackets to fit the bolts that came with the might mounts. I cut
the brackets to fit the width of the mounts and mounted them on the rack. With the 4 mounts, I now have stabilizers for both left and right and they can be adjusted left or right across the rack to fit the load. The mounts fit pretty tightly. Total cost = $28.00 plus tax. My rack is now useful.

Thanks to all for great ideas. Happy hauling.

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Old 09-22-2017, 04:53 PM #41
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Thanks for the great Idea. I have same model as you and just upgraded my rack exactly like you did
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Old 09-22-2017, 11:30 PM #42
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About to bolt on my sears cargo carrier for a cross-country trip. Looks like it'll fit perfectly
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Old 09-23-2017, 06:24 PM #43
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How much weight can the factory sport edition roof rack hold? Crossbars and main rail... Couldn't find it in the manual

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Old 09-23-2017, 08:08 PM #44
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I mounted my Roof top tent to my factory Urban runner rack as well as my awning. It held both of them just fine. It's not ideal, but it works.
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Old 12-17-2017, 12:57 AM #45
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Factory Roof rack - Useless?

Quote:
Originally Posted by blackoutt View Post
Stock rack with tred pros mounted with rok straps, neoprene wrapped the crossbars to dampen any rubbing/sound.



2 1.75gal rotopax on locking mounts, home made aluminum bracket mounts to underside of Yamika mighty mounts for a low profile mount.



60" hi lift mounted straight through the stock cross bars. I can confirm that they do in fact have aluminum structural supports inside of them.













Watchya using for the hi lift setup? I was trying to use those might mounts and it just didn't feel solid with the high lift. Works great with the maxtrax though, bolted in the corners. Very interested in the specs of your setup. What size hole is that?

Last edited by chiefdancinglizard; 12-17-2017 at 04:53 AM.
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