10-10-2013, 08:23 AM
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#61
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running the wires separately (if they come bundled) makes it easier to slip them under the window moulding.
I ran the wires up and under the front foot of the roof rack and put a connector right behind the foot so I could remove the light bar if needed for service.
Running a single pass of black electrical over the edge of the window moulding pretty well hides the wires and prevents them from moving. You don't notice the tape from more than a few feet away.
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10-10-2013, 08:57 AM
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#62
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Jon, THANKS!!!!!!!!!
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10-31-2013, 02:10 AM
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#63
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How are everyone's mounts and light bars holding up? Being mounted so close to the roof, has anyone experienced any flex/impacts to the roof over harsh roads or bumps?
I really like this mounting method and I'm about to pull the trigger on one of these light bars since I do a lot of long distance driving in the winter darkness.
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10-31-2013, 12:33 PM
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#64
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Mine has been perfect, no flexing, no touching the roof, etc. Have had multiple car washes, long distance trips etc and everything is great. The only thing I have noticed is the bars color is changing slightly to bronze-ish.
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10-31-2013, 01:39 PM
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#65
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For this set-up, which would be the best mounting brackets (on the light bar) to use? I've seen 3 different styles of mounting brackets; there maybe more, but these are the common ones I've seen.
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10-31-2013, 01:47 PM
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#66
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wvuviv30
For this set-up, which would be the best mounting brackets (on the light bar) to use? I've seen 3 different styles of mounting brackets; there maybe more, but these are the common ones I've seen.
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You will need to use Option B to mount the light bar as the OP has.
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10-31-2013, 02:43 PM
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#67
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Quote:
Originally Posted by brandoc0mmand0
Mine has been perfect, no flexing, no touching the roof, etc. Have had multiple car washes, long distance trips etc and everything is great. The only thing I have noticed is the bars color is changing slightly to bronze-ish.
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Awesome, thanks for the info. I've read lots of reports of the Chinese bars discoloring, sounds like their anodizing reacts to the heat generated by the leds.
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11-01-2013, 12:44 AM
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#68
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I'm just thinking out loud here but that has to be a better way of running the wires from top to bottom other than peeling back the molding on the windshield. Anyone done it any different way with success?
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11-01-2013, 09:53 AM
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#69
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 810moto
I'm just thinking out loud here but that has to be a better way of running the wires from top to bottom other than peeling back the molding on the windshield. Anyone done it any different way with success?
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Some drill the roof and seal with a rubber grommet but doing that with my truck would make me very nervous..... 
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11-01-2013, 10:51 AM
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#70
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My bar pulls 20A think 12G should be sufficient to run from the relay to the bar?
@ jdkilroy
that looks like 12-14?
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11-01-2013, 01:17 PM
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#71
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RunnerAK
Awesome, thanks for the info. I've read lots of reports of the Chinese bars discoloring, sounds like their anodizing reacts to the heat generated by the leds.
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No worries. I highly doubt the discoloration has been caused by heat from the LED's, these things barely get hot. It started discoloring from just sitting in the sun, and moisture. This has only happened on the rear of the bar, which in my case with the roof basket, is impossible to see. The front part of the bar is still dark black.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bob J
Some drill the roof and seal with a rubber grommet but doing that with my truck would make me very nervous..... |
I've seen some people do it too, but I just don't like the idea of hacking into the car like this. I think it is best to keep the mods to bolt-on stuff that doesn't compromise the integrity of the vehicle. Just my $0.02 however...to each his own.
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11-01-2013, 04:55 PM
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#72
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Here's mine.
I need to trim the caps to fit back on with the bracket
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11-02-2013, 07:24 PM
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#73
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zopperman
My bar pulls 20A think 12G should be sufficient to run from the relay to the bar?
@ jdkilroy
that looks like 12-14? |
@ zopperman
: Pretty sure its 14 ga stranded. My rooftop bar is rated at about 85 watts so the load is only a little over 6 amps. Puts out ~ 7000 lumens.
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11-02-2013, 09:56 PM
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#74
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jdkilroy
@ zopperman
: Pretty sure its 14 ga stranded. My rooftop bar is rated at about 85 watts so the load is only a little over 6 amps. Puts out ~ 7000 lumens. |
I just used 10 and 12 all over. Wired it up today. Holy hell.
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11-03-2013, 09:41 AM
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#75
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zopperman
I just used 10 and 12 all over. ...
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Hard to argue that bigger isn't better when it comes to electricity... I checked my wiring this AM and they are 12 ga and I would not want to use anything less.
The circuitry in the Baja Designs lights will protect the unit and the wiring if it senses an overload situation; I'm betting other makes have similar electronics to manage the light.
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