The closest I've been to posting a "build" about it are a few longer posts over on DIYMA. I can go into as much detail as you want but I'll hit the high notes for now:

It's a pre-built double din sized case built by E3IO. They make fairly expensive turn-key Windows 10 CarPCs. There's nothing really special about them other than its already built so prices are $$$$ due to it being such a niche market. I was in the process of building my own PC setup when I stumbled across this one on Ebay and grabbed it...done.

As for the build itself, it uses a Mini ITX mobo, 16GB ram, i5 CPU all powered off a car friendly 12v PicoPSU. The PC has an internal relay that is triggered on/off with my ACC 12v line from the radio harness. It has a soft shutdown too so it gives the PC 30 seconds to turn off and close out everytime (easier on components/software).

I have some cameras hooked up too it but its primarily meant to be a high-end head unit since I have a lot of Hi-res audio (Flac, SACD and DSD). I run Jriver as my media player and its fully customizable in what you want it to show and starts up on ACC on. I have all the programs automated so music is playing within 15-20 seconds from turning on the key.

I also retained all my SWC by using a Joycon EXR that interprets all the resistive signals coming from our steering wheel buttons and maps them however youd like to the PC...fully customizable as well with each button have dual functions if needed.

I also added another set of buttons on the right side so I have all the possible button spots filled. Got that fairly cheap off Ali as well.

As for the screen, it's borrowed from an older iPad so its 9.7" and fits PERFECTLY in our dash opening width-wise. I had to move the HVAC lower (still need to finalize that part) and it looks fairly stock if you didnt know any better. I installed a USB Touch screen overlay as well so I can control everything via touch if needed. I used a wireless track pad most of the time.

For audio, I have a ARC Ps8 DSP that has dual digital inputs. Into that, I have a Bluetooth 5.0 receiver feeding digital SPDIF signal into the DSP and I also have a SPDIF from the PC as well going into the DSP. I use the BT input form my phone but the CarPC also sounds great via BT as well.

All this can fully display control my Android phone as well with the touchscreen working for the phone image too. My steering wheel controls also work with my phone so everything is fully automated on hookup and ready to use. If I have my BT turned on my phone, music isolating within 10 seconds of starting the car along with starting Android Auto on the screen as well. Pretty nifty.

Obviously, this isnt for everyone but I LOVE to tinker and always wanted a CarPC back in the day. Woth phones being what they are now, they're pretty rare nowadays but I really enjoy it.

Turns out the Clazzios dont have proper cutouts for the child safety latches on the rear seat. Either that or the set I received was a manufacturer defect. I still love them as they fit very well and look amazing as the brown on my blacked out interior really stands out.

There are 4 total safety points, 2 on each side, but my set only had a single cutout...missing the other 3 entirely. The Clazzio rep I talked to was stunned that I was the first to mention this with as many 4th gen 4runner sets as they've sold over the years.

I'd guess it's mostly due to a younger crowd owning these rigs now or the older ones that do have kids dont use it to haul them around. Still suprising If it is truly the first time this has come up. Has anyone else ran into this?

Bringing this back to life. I've got a few more addons going on soon, most of which are in the same vein as my other recent posts: audio/electrical related.

Current To-Do:

-JS Alternators 240a and 1/2" shorted serpentine belt (Gates K070825HD)
thanks @riceandpho for the tip)
-X2Power G31M AGM
-Place current battery on passenger side and use an aux/house battery for fulltime 12v stuff (nothing major)
-Install Battery Dr Isolator (only if I do the above with dual batteries). I may just keep them seperated.
-Backup/Front cameras for the HU
-Replace headlight lenses on current retro set
-Look into relocating or modifying parking brake for more room (not sure on this yet)
-Tint front windows again, not dark enough and miss my old limo darkness. Maybe 15% this time


Recently Completed:

-Swapped in a set of 2016 Tacoma TRD Sport takeoffs since my Icons were both leaking. It lowered the already low (~2" lift) front end another 0.75-1" but I'm enjoying the ride and handling of the lower CG for now. Also having some decent rebound is a nice bonus.

-Removed the iPad 9.7" screen in favor of a stock looking Joying 7" display. Love it! Worlds better and faster than the old unit I ran back in 2015. This one has 6gb ram so its pretty snappy. I'm using it as a media server front end as well being fed by my CarPC so its great for trips and such too.

-Full audio gear swap (again)...gets better every time.

-Still enjoying the Clazzio covers. Easily one of the best upgrades and really "classes up" the interior.

im using the marine version, basically it has dual terminals. remember not to slam the hood down, make sure the negative side dont hit the hood. i never had the issue with the older group 31, since the terminals are in the rear and not the front.

Nice. I've got the dual post marine version as well. I was worried about the hood height becoming an issue with the posts being so far forward. I may get creative and use one of the larger, flat terminals on the m8 bolt or the Knu Ultimate terminal to relocate the post closer on the main post with their side mount. I'll just have to see how far the factory stretches and what fits.

No fender crack issues from the extra weight? I'm hoping that's due to more offroad use so I should be safe.

no cracks, mines all street anyways, but pot holes here suck a$$.

Ha fair enough. The force from a huge pothole should be a good test. Between the Alt-s diode, bigger alternator and on-board charger, I should be ready to go once I cram it in there.

Been well over a year so need to sit down and update this as I've added lots of random things. Also swapped over to a set of Maxxis Razr AT 285s a few days ago as well. 7nor 8lba lighter per tire and I can certainly feel the difference in acceleratation. The Wildpeaks had been on since 2016 so they were due for a change. Great tires, still had 6/32nds left and my favorite looking AT sidewall. I'll update with a detailed post soon.

I've got some maintenance to knock off soon since the new tires are on.

Diagnose Brakes (pin, pistons, etc?)
Spark plugs
Outer Tie Rods
SuperPro LCAs
Coilovers (rebuild or sell)
ES Ext. Front Bumpstops
Lexus OEM ext. Bumpstops
Front and Rear swaybar ends
Grease Driveshaft
Inspect radiator (found some pink so likely leaking rear diff breather extension
Inspect rear diff seal/gasket (looks wet)

Superpro LCAs and outer tie rods on. Shoutout to Diablo carbide blades for those cam sleeves/bolts! Still waiting on my ES extended front bump stops, Lexus rear bump stops, 2nds gen rear swaybar ends and front swaybar ends to come in before aligning.

Also rigging up a crude aux battery tray in the passenger engine compartment for a spare battery I've got laying around just b/c. Given how much I need it (dont), I couldnt shell out hundreds for an off the shelf solution..or even $140 for the Bison gear version. Should be a fun side project whenever I have some more free time. Basically got a cheap universal tray off Amazon and going to rig up some L-brackets for side support and washers/feet for rear support along with the usual fender bolts.